[koolmoose]

My slave cylinder suddenly started leaking badly enough that the fluid got so low that clutch failed to disengage while slowly backing. As a result, I hit a tree before I could kill the engine with the throttle. No damage, just shaken!

I am installing a clutch kit.

After removing the jam nut, I found the adjustment bolt is very tight. It appears that the inner adjustment stem was bottomed out since so few threads show. I am using Aerokroil and a large Crescent wrench on the flat to tighten/loosen to try to break it loose. I am able to put so much torque on the stem that it feels soft and about to break.

I am thinking of using an impact wrench next with ever increasing torque.

Any ideas on how to break it loose without breaking it are appreciated.

 

[Mogasaurus]

My slave cylinder suddenly started leaking badly enough that the fluid got so low that clutch failed to disengage while slowly backing. As a result, I hit a tree before I could kill the engine with the throttle. No damage, just shaken!

Since nothing was hurt, I can say that I think that's pretty funny

Just soak it in Kroil for a few days - I'll bet in moves then...

 

[koolmoose]

Since nothing was hurt, I can say that I think that's pretty funny

Just soak it in Kroil for a few days - I'll bet in moves then...

My pride was badly hurt Should have been quicker on killing with throttle, my usual emergency stop.


Will try soaking in Aerokroil, Thanks

 

[dxmedia]

Heat and it'll come straight undone.

 

[TRUKTOR]

Heat gradually and I agree that it'll come loose.
No need for red hot.
I trust hand pressure with a long breaker bar over an impact almost always....
Easier to feel the give, and if is really stuck, sometimes an impact will ding nuts up
And break things...

 

[VON]

Heat it up, and if you break it I think I has some new ones in stock to replace it.

 

[Andrew_G]

I just replaced the slave cyl on mine a few weeks ago and had the same issue. Persistence paid off. Heat, liquid wrench, repeat...did the trick.
Good luck!

 

[hammogger]

Tap on it, on the ends, and on the sides of the piston. Use a small hammer but a very solid base like a good anvil. With a little dexterity you could even maintain CCW torque on it as you tap on it. (didn't say I could do it)

Bob

 

[Snow mogg]

My new slave came with all those bits, Did you get a rebuilt one?

 

[koolmoose]

My new slave came with all those bits, Did you get a rebuilt one?

No, got a rebuild kit from Eurotech for about $20 which they shipped Priority Mail and I got it in just a couple days. It contained the piston and boot. I honed the cylinder myself. The whole slave cost much more.

 

[koolmoose]

Great advice!

Thanks guys for all great ideas.

I don't know the right nomenclature for the clutch actuator adjustment assembly parts. I will call the small bolt with the flat sides the threaded stem and the large bullet shaped item into which it screws, the rod. Maybe someone will offer the proper nomenclature.

To be thrifty, I will soak the whole thing overnight inside the thumb of a rubber glove wrapped inside a long socket to conserve Aerokroil while making sure it is immersed.

Here is my current plan to free the threaded stem from the rod.

Thoroughly hammer the sides of the rod all around with a brass hammer on my anvil.

Freeze a large Crescent wrench in my refrigerator overnight. Have some ice water on hand.

Cut some short pieces of angle iron about the length of the nut face and put in vise.

Clamp rod nut in vise with stem sticking out. Hopefully there will be enough space between rod and vise to limit heat transfer to vise to just the nut face.

Heat rod in vise with propane torch.

When hot, pour some ice water on threaded stem and quickly use frozen Crescent to work the stem loose.

I am assuming the more heat difference between parts will help free the stem.

Hoping to get this done tomorrow, don't want to wait for more parts.

Stay tuned

KM

 

[Snow mogg]

Ya man I bought a new one that came with all the new hardware, but really you dont need to take that plunger and aduster apart, After I instaled the new slave I adusted it just like it originaly was(the clutch will self adjust). So I dont see any need of taking that apart. Also the slave can be positioned as you wish with the slotted bracket.

 

[dxmedia]

To be honest, it sounds like complete overkill.

2 - 3 minutes heating with a gas blow torch in a vice and just undo it. May be soak overnight and burn the oil off with the heat (it will help it penetrate) but a 1/2 inch breaker bar and single hex socket with the pin held in a vice should have that all apart in under 5 minutes tops.

 

[ALASKAT]

I have used heat for similar apps and the cooling could not hurt, the last thing you want is a three piece adj. rod. It is a real test sometimes when a fastener gets seized and a simple task turns into elaborate extraction. My most recent was a bolt and bushing that became one on a wheeler. To get back hunting I drove the sleeve and bolt from a rubber bushing and put a deep socket in its place and ran a bolt through the socket and the guys still running it like that. Any way it was a futile effort for something that should be simple. I put a lot of stuff together with anti seize if it seems right. I have never heard the clutch is self adjusting although I recall it's critical to properly adjust with the double clutch. Good luck

 

[koolmoose]

Sweet success!

Worry as I must about breaking stuff, I decided to measure the amount of torque I was applying to the adjustment bolt. The picture shows my lashup. The torque wrench is set so the radius to the open end is the same as the box end to get approximately the same torque. The deep socket provides an axle of rotation. The diameter of the adjustment bolt is about .287" so I used the torque value of 8 lbs for a quarter inch grade 5 bolt.

On the first attempt after soaking overnight with kroil she would not budge at 8 lbs torque. I put it on the anvil and beat it moderately all around per hammoggers advice. This time she came loose at an estimated 6 ft lbs torque.

Looking at the threads, I could see that the kroil had traveled half way up the rusted bolt. Had I soaked it for another day it probably would have come loose.

I wire brushed the threads clean and put tube wax on them so it should last another 40 years with no problem.

A big thank you to all for your excellent comments. This forum is truly world class