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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
...indefinitely.

I have a new job starting the 15th of November, and while my commute doubles, I'm also getting a 75% raise over the last, crappy job I had. I still have a hard time believing it, honestly.

After mulling it over for several weeks, I've decided the '95 W124 sedan is in good enough shape, inside and out, to keep for a long while. Plus, it's difficult to argue with no car payments, doors which close with a thunk and 23-25 MPG, in-town.

It's gasoline, but I'm gentle with her, hence the good MPG.

Over the past year, however, I've heard some clunks, front-end rattles, and noticed it really needs front-end/suspension work, especially before I put new tires on it. The left-front Continental is having issues with the tread beginning to separate from the carcass, but it'll do for the trip to the dealer after front-end rebuilding.

Doing some shopping, it looks like $1K will cover 4 new tie rod ends, a center link, control arms (IIRC, these ball joints are welded in, and it'll need bushings, anyway, so I might as well do a simple replacement and save the aggravation), sway bar bushings, idler arm bushings, and a steering damper. Oh, this grand also includes four new KYB struts . I know, I know, everyone argues Bilsteins are the only way to go, but I like the KYB feel, better. Well, I really like how Koni's behave, but I'm not about to drop $700 on shocks/struts for a $3K car.

Is there anything I'm missing? Park Place Mercedes is less than 5 miles away, and they'll likely be my alignment place, though I wish I knew of a good independent shop in SW Fort Worth.

Thanks!

After this, I'm going to do a consumables rebuild on the transmission (piston fixing, clutches, maybe bands, and probably a few seals). With 167K miles, this work should get me to 300K...or more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Don't forget the strut mounts, bump stops and dust boots.

If you ask at the dealer they'll give you the alignment for $100 usually. Not that $140 nonsense they usually charge.
Thanks...I just forgot to type the boots/bump stops in. Gotta have boots and bump stops for long life.

Mounts, too, eh? Man...there's another $100. Well, I want to do it right the first time, and do it one time only, so....

Thanks for the mount info. I had been wrestling with whether those were needed or not, and by this time, yeah, I need 'em.

Thanks!
 

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1993 300E, 2003 996 Turbo X50
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I got my mounts $30 a piece from autohausaz. In fact I still have them because they didn't fit my cabrio. The ones that did fit were $100 a piece at the dealer.

If you want mine I'll sell them both for $50 shipped. Brand new and obviously never installed. THey will fit the sedan, just the cabrio has longer mounting bolts for the spacers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I got my mounts $30 a piece from autohausaz. In fact I still have them because they didn't fit my cabrio. The ones that did fit were $100 a piece at the dealer.

If you want mine I'll sell them both for $50 shipped. Brand new and obviously never installed. THey will fit the sedan, just the cabrio has longer mounting bolts for the spacers.
Aw, man...I already ordered.

Thanks a bunch, though! I may see if I can delete that part of my order...back in a few.

PM sent!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Boge or Bilstein should be less than half that, will last longer, and come with a lifetime warranty.
The KYB's are less than half that, too, and like I said, I'm not a fan of the way the Bilsteins feel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Where are you getting four KYBs for $150 - 175?
Half of $700 is $350, not $150-$175.

The four KYB's cost me right at $240, from rockauto.com...love that "place". Struts were $145, the shocks $95.

Thanks to the forum, I'm paying only half what I budgeted for the mounts.
 

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93 300E 2.8, 79 450 SLC
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I wonder why I am only getting 20-21mpg combine. Does TX require cars to have catalytic converter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I wonder why I am only getting 20-21mpg combine. Does TX require cars to have catalytic converter?

Of course they do. In fact, according to my VIN code, it's a "California" car. Past a certain point, I think all vehicles had to meet the strictest emissions so they'd not have to make special ones for Cali.

My commute was 'bout 15 minutes of side streets and 15 minutes of freeway. The freeway part was usually dead-stopped free, but not always.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
But I said in post 6 that OEMs were less than half of your $700 number, then you said in post 7 that KYBs were even less than half of less than half, that is less than $175. Here's an idea - pretend that OEM costs a thousand and you'll have even stronger financial case for the ones you want.
While I see your argument, I also see you misinterpreted my statement.

I did not say the KYB's were half of your number...that's merely what you took my post to mean. I made no reference to the KYB's being half of your number, I stated they were also less than half.

Simple.

Being you also suggested Bilsteins, wholly ignoring the fact I expressly stated I did not want to replace the ones I have with the identical ones because I do not like the ride they produce...well, it appears there may be an issue with basic reading comprehension.

And FWIW, you are the one making a financial case, not me. I stated I wasn't putting $700 worth of Koni's into a $3K car. I've purchased Koni's in the past, and will again, they're worth it, but not on this machine, as it stands.

They were the best $800 I could have spent on that particular machine for ride/handling improvement.
 
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