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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
99 SLK 230. Going down freeway at 60 mph when it just died. Pulled to shoulder and tried to restart but nothing, would not even crank. All lights, radio, gauges, windows worked so it was good electrically. Towed home by AAA. Back at home it started right up (???). It was not a fuel issue, and obviously it wasn’t a blown fuse. I’m stumped and not sure it won’t happen again. All opinions welcome and appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Mike, but I don’t have a code reader and I don’t think OReillys has the multiple pin reader that the MBs require either. Care to venture a guess... possibly/probably the K40 ?
 

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1998 , SLK 230
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257 Posts
Could check the K40 for dry solder joints as a low cost start. Amazing how dry solder joints develop over time - I spent yesterday fixing dry joints in the instrument cluster of a 30 year old GM vehicle I keep as piece of nostalgia.
 

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SLC 350 1973 euro
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Mine has done exactly the same today ! It has died few times previous ,but will then Start Straight away ,
Today however it wouldn't start ,but then would an hour later ... Ive changed the K 40 relay already ,but swapped to another K40 ,Will let you know
 

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Discussion Starter #6
SLC Patient: TY for responding. Sorry that you are having the same problem. Be assured, if I find the culprit I will post it, and hope that anyone who knows the precise cause will be so kind as to share it with us. Peace.
 

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Color coded wires, you only need three in total.
Buy a cheap v2.1 bluetooth ELM327 OBD2 tool and you can read the codes.
Make sure you put the cables over the right pin on the obd2 reader and into the right places on the 38 pin.
If you want to have the OBD2 only run when the car is running(not draining battery) just move the 12v cable one step closer to the ground.
Dont short it by mistakenly touch the 12v and ground, otherwise you will have to change a fuse on the k40.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Color coded wires, you only need three in total.
Buy a cheap v2.1 bluetooth ELM327 OBD2 tool and you can read the codes.
Make sure you put the cables over the right pin on the obd2 reader and into the right places on the 38 pin.
If you want to have the OBD2 only run when the car is running(not draining battery) just move the 12v cable one step closer to the ground.
Dont short it by mistakenly touch the 12v and ground, otherwise you will have to change a fuse on the k40.
SWECaliber: I appreciate your response, unfortunately, I am so electronically challenged that I just don’t understand your message/advice.
 

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SLK230 1999 94K, C320 2003 47K, Volvo 760 1988 401K, Volvo 960 358K kilometers
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I have the same car , same year and that problem happens to me too. For me it was the CPS.

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99 SLK 230. Going down freeway at 60 mph when it just died. Pulled to shoulder and tried to restart but nothing, would not even crank. All lights, radio, gauges, windows worked so it was good electrically. Towed home by AAA. Back at home it started right up (???). It was not a fuel issue, and obviously it wasn’t a blown fuse. I’m stumped and not sure it won’t happen again. All opinions welcome and appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have the same car , same year and that problem happens to me too. For me it was the CPS.

Let us know
Sined: TY for responding. What is CPS—-crankshaft positioning sensor? How did u diagnose it as that? Where did u get yours, and is it a DIY fix?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sined: TY for responding. What is CPS—-crankshaft positioning sensor? How did u diagnose it as that? Where did u get yours, and is it a DIY fix?
Sined: TY for your reply. How did u diagnose it as CPS, and is that the Crank Positioning Sensor? Where did u get your new one, and is it a DIY fix?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sined: TY for your reply. How did u diagnose the problem as CPS, and is the Crankshaft Positioning Sensor? Where did u purchase your new one, and is it a DIAy fix? TY.
 
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