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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Since I bought my CLK500 six months ago, I noticed some issues that I report here below;

  • No alarm on driver door open but works when left door is open (sound + red display alert on cluster)
  • No Easy Entry/Exit convenience (activated option seat+wheel) (it worked once or twice in 6 months but wheel only)
  • No working Garage door opener (never worked, no green flashing when trying to prog; but red light flashing after a system reset (battery off) and two buttons are pressed in the sametime)
  • No dimming on driver external mirror but working on internal rear view
  • Intermittent : Trunk can't be opened; after battery failing to start the engine cause low voltage)
  • Intermittent Light sensor error ; after battery failing to start the engine (cause low voltage)
  • Intermittent Left Tail light error; after battery failing to start the engine (cause low voltage)

When I started to have problems with the battery very low (because I don't drive the car or very rarely) the first issues were only about not starting the engine. Then I bought a battery booster that I'm using to start the engine. Later, when I try to start the car without booster, I started to get "Light sensor issue" on the cluster but the error is cleared at the next immediate restart of the engine. Then later (months), I started to have two errors when the battery fails to start the engine ; Light sensor and Left tail light. If I check the light, no problem at all. And both errors get cleared after I turn off and start the engine again.
Yesterday, new one : after failing to start the engine (battery again), the seat belt dispenser get stuck deployed and the trunk started to first having some kind of lag between the time I push to locker and the time it's getting unlocked (Keyless Go). At the next battery fail (few moments later), even after starting the engine using the booster, the trunk didn't want to unlock, with Keyless Go and also when trying to use the FOB to lock or unlock (the red light is flashing but no reaction from the car). I then let the engine run for some time then turned off and then immediately after started the car (without booster), the trunk unlocked when I pushed the handle (instantly as usual)

The first issues, door open alert, garage door opener, easy entry, have always been there since I bought it, but the growing number of errors after battery failing to start the engine are just coming with time.

The trunk not unlocking is a new issue from yesterday, after that I replaced the external mirror with an original one with heating + dimming. The previous one was just having the heating option. The connections are correct. I even tested both features contacts at home before install. No short and no infinite resistance. Just about 10 ohms for the heating and about 1K for the dimming, which seems correct. So, I don't think the mirror created this new issue with stuck seat belt dispenser in deployed position and stuck trunk (until restart the engine)

I do have a handheld scanner (Foxwell NT510) but still didn't use it yet to check for errors. If any or both of the SAM are having some corrosion, do you believe I will see it on the scanner?

Could you help me please? Is it a SAM boards corrosion? If it's the case, which SAM is it, rear or front?
 

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95 SL600
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I would say the battery booster is probably causing some over voltage damage. These cars don’t like to be jump started from battery boosters. Most times the booster is at a much higher voltage than 14.4.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I would say the battery booster is probably causing some over voltage damage. These cars don’t like to be jump started from battery boosters. Most times the booster is at a much higher voltage than 14.4.
I don't know that. My battery booster is a new NOCO GENIUS BOOST HD GB70 reglated 12V and with last standards. I'm using the red positive access point that is especially dedicated for a jump start. It has some electronics behind it so it does regulate the voltage and protect the ECU from any overvoltage...

My doubts are about the battery itself. The previous owner told me that it was a new battery, ok, it can be 1 or 2 years old... but the thing is that I'm not driving my car. I just start the engine once a week and let it run for few minutes then turn it off. Once per month, I go for a ride for about 10 miles and then back to the garage. I know the battery is flat now. When I check the battery on the cluster, before starting, I see sometimes 9v. So, I always use the booster to start the engine, otherwise it will never start with that flat battery. I don't know what other solution I can use but for now, I have no other choice. The garage is without power outlets so I can't use a battery charger. Disconnecting the battery? I'm not sure if this is a good solution as it's already flat. The weight of the battery is almost 25kg, which is too much for my tired back.

Now, I'm not sure if the fact of having that bad battery could cause these problems I've mentioned in my first post but the fact that their number is increasing makes me think about a possible corrosion on the circuit boards of the SAMs.
I need to get back to the car and scan it for possible errors but I can't do so until the next weekend. I work from home all days of the week and at the end of day, it's already cold and dark. On top of it, the garage have some stupid internal policy that I can't spend more than 15 minutes inside it, with my own car ! I got a fight with the security guy twice because of that and I'm looking for another garage with more flexibility.

For example, for the feature Easy Entry/Exit, it never worked except one or twice in six months. And only the steering wheel moved when I introduced the key. With keyless go, it worked once or twice also, steering wheel only. Even if the feature is activated in the menu, nothing is moving if I get in or out. I know from other mercedes model that the Easy Entry function is managed by the rear SAM. So, if it's working once or twice in six months, it means there should be some corrosion on the circuit as I've seen on some youtube videos. It's just that I want to hear more from you, on this forum, if the issue is somewhere else that I'm not aware of?

The thing about the errors is that if I restart the engine, all is cleared and I don't see any error or problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I would change the battery, Mercedes aren’t fond of weak batteries or jump starting in general. Trust me you aren’t doing it any justice by having to regularly jump the battery.
I was discussing with my brother about the idea to get myself a new battery but then, he told me no way! "As long as you are not driving your car regularly, your new battery will be flat in a month and you will be in the same situation again!" so, it's really a big dilemma for me! The only advice I got is to drive my car regularly... but I can't do that! Can't drive without any goal or some place where to go... I bought the car for long trips only or if any exception.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just to share with you guys the benefits of using a battery pack booster vs another car jump start:
I have the GB70 version so it's more than enough for a V8 5.0

With my IT and electronics background, I believe that there is no harm to the system if a battery pack booster is used properly to start the engine. The voltage is same, always 12v. The current, as this is missing from the installed battery, will be given by the battery pack but only during the starting phase when the current demand is very high. The rest of the time, the battery booster is connected but in standby mode. It must be removed from the circuit once the engine is started. Before removal, a push on a button will turn it off so it will be safe to remove the cables. I never seen any spark when plugin or unplugin the booster in off position. So, I didn't analyze the electric process when doing a jump start with another car (part of the current will be going to the installed battery and giving some uncontrolled charge which is bad... but not the case with the battery pack booster. So, it should be perfectly safe and transparent to the onboard electronics. What is not good however, is that when the battery is low and goes under the nominal voltage of 12v, like 10 or 9v like in my case, I strongly believe that the system, cpu, memory components will not behave normally or will start to be unpredictable... under-voltage can bug the IT system but not permanently. It may just require a proper reboot or restart to clear up any volatile working memory, just like in my case. But, for some of the features, I'm not sure if it's due to some corrosion on the circuit boards or is something else.
 

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So the battery is bad in your car, you have to jump start it every time you start it, you are having electrical issues and you don’t want to buy a battery because your brother in law says it’s a bad idea and not needed?

First thing I would do is buy a new battery and stop using the jump pack, but I don’t have a background in electronics like you do, just 7 Mercedes from this era, and I do know it’s foolish to be doing what you are doing. These cars don’t enjoy either bad batteries or jump starting, but do as you wish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The battery is not bad. The battery is not being charged on regular basis (by the alternator) as I'm not a daily driver. I don't see where is the point to buy a new battery (which is very easy) and then getting back to the same situation in a few weeks? If I said "bad battery" earlier, the meaning is a low charged battery.
My original post is not about the battery itself, but about the Easy Entry/Exit feature that has never worked properly (once or twice in six months) and the other "fake" errors I'm getting as when I restart the engine the errors are all gone. I still didn't scan the memory for faults as I work everyday and I'm only free during the weekends.
My question for the forum members, if any help, is to see if other users were or are suffering from same symptoms and if the SAMs could be the cause for such malfunctioning. Secondly, if the Garage opener is controlled from the rear view itself (inside) or by the central switch control in the roof (I saw the two connectors going there from the rear view mirror)
 

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C209 CLK500 -04
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there is not necessarily a problem with the battery, but yes it should hold its voltage, there is now something draining the battery. the system should go to sleep when the car is turned off!
you need to measure the parasitic draw from the battery, see how much it is. there are good instructions for that. the fault is likely to be found in the seat controller. however, the codes must be read, even if common fault code readers don't show much
if and when you find the fuse that current flows through when the system sleeps, you'll know where the problem is. at least approximately
Or you are looking for a person with a mb star C4 who can examine the car, making things easier.
 

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Get a battery tender to maintain the charge when not using. Weak batteries will cause the symptoms you are describing. Constantly discharging the battery will damage it. I would get a new battery and use a battery tender.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I just bought and installed a new battery (EXIDE Premium 100Ah EA1000). Indeed, the engine starts in a second now. I connected my scan tool and cleared all the codes related to all previous low voltage issues and checked that on all the modules I do have No Error, All clean. I will try to ride the car once a week and see if everything is okay.
It's a pleasure to just go and tap on the start button and get a quick start of the engine.

I just tried to get the Easy entry/exit feature to work but no luck, still not moving anything... just sad for this one.

Just one thing; do you know guys what is the reference of the two types of bolts used on the valve covers on the CLK500 (M113) ? I would like to rework the gasket around the breathers (I have a very small leak close to the oil cap) and I heard that the small bolts snaps with time, so I don't wanna try to tighten them a little bit, so I want to buy new long and short bolts but I have no idea about the references. Any help please?

Thank you
 

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you can use the valve covers bolts again, it is good to change the aluminum bolts of the breather covers, the updated ones are stainless. I myself put the titanium ones when I happened to have them. they should be 16-18mm long, 20mm is too much, as I recall, and they are M5, so M5x16
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I thank you very much for the link to the online store where I can buy the full set. I will order it and prepare for the work...

Just to add that the dimming on the external mirror is now working. After disassembling, I found that the negative wire was not making contact with the negative plate. After soldering the wire in place, the dimming worked.

The only issues that are still there but not shown on the scan tool are :
Easy Entry/Exit feature
Alarm driver door open
Garage door opener (only once after reset, red light ON while pressing first and last buttons then nothing)
 
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