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A couple weeks ago, my AC compressor took a dump so I've got teh new one plus the receiver/dryer. I've done a search but can't find a thread related to R&R.

Also, how does one get the cap off the accumulator to replace the dryer? Is there a special tool?

ALSO, does anyone a pic of the replacement compressor for my model year? Before I pull the one that's on the car and have parts lying all over the garage, I want to know I have the correct compressor.

I really need some feedback ASAP as my wife and I are down to one car....highly inconvenient.

THANKS!!
 

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I replaced the AC compressor on my 02 C240 earlier this year. I didn't take any pics while doing the job, but I just took some pics now of what I used to get the cap off to replace the drier. You can purchase a special tool (27mm hex tool) to remove the cap, it's about $25 plus shipping at Baum Tools. I used a "M16" (metric) hex nut ($1-2) to remove the cap. The wrench size for the nut is 27mm which is what size you want. Had to go to a fastener supplier to purchase this size nut. They're hard to find. What would be better is if you could get a "M16 coupling nut".
First you will have to go to an AC shop and have them remove your refrigerant. To remove the compressor, disconnect electrical connections, low & hi pressure fittings (top side), 3 torx bolts (underside). Once unbolted, I removed the compressor by moving it to the front of the engine and taking it out from the top between the engine and the fan assembly. There is enough room, you have to move some hoses around, but it will come out thru the top. Install is the same, just reverse order. Don't forget to add approx. 7-8 oz. of PAG46 oil to the compressor and use new o-rings on ALL fittings. Take it back to the AC shop and have them pull a vacuum (remove any moisture and check for leaks), then replace refrigerant (750 grams or 24-25oz. approx). I have added a few photos of what I was trying to explain to remove the accumulator/drier and the replacement compressor that I purchased (Rock Auto $286). Good Luck and let me know if I can help out in any way.
 

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I replaced the AC compressor on my 02 C240 earlier this year. I didn't take any pics while doing the job, but I just took some pics now of what I used to get the cap off to replace the drier. You can purchase a special tool (27mm hex tool) to remove the cap, it's about $25 plus shipping at Baum Tools. I used a "M16" (metric) hex nut ($1-2) to remove the cap. The wrench size for the nut is 27mm which is what size you want. Had to go to a fastener supplier to purchase this size nut. They're hard to find. What would be better is if you could get a "M16 coupling nut".
Great work on using the 27mm nut!
 

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I am not sure how M16 hex nut instead of MB special tool is used to remove C240 or C230 Drier. M16 hex nut has flat to flat measurement of 24mm. That is, the wrench that is used should be 24mm. If the wrench size for this work should be 27mm, then M18 hex nut should be used. I have tried using both nuts and it did not work and I would like to know what I am doing wrong. The M18 hex nut may work but you cannot slide it thru the top of the housing to sit in where you can turn the wrench to remove the drier. Someone body help with better information. I suppose the special tool has a hole that will allow it to pass thru the top and allow it to be used to unscrew the drier. MB special tool number is 203 589 00 10 00 and could be bought from brinsonco.com.
 

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Correction to my post for the metric hex nut. It was a M18 with 27mm wrench size. Sorry about that Shyone411. Forgot to mention I filed the inside of the nut to fit over the valve. A "M18 coupling nut" would work better than a regular nut. The correct tool at Baum Tools was about $30. Hope this explains things a bit better.
 

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I am having trouble finding a 27mm nut in my area. New Shocker Guy is the MB tool still for sale? Also when you broke the torque on the drier cap/plug did it unthread fairly easy?

Thanks!
 

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You are to find an M18 hex nut and the outside diameter size is equivalent to a 27 mm. I asked a mechanic to file the middle opening (the thread area) to make it wider so that the schrader valve will pass through that opening so that the nut can be seated on the desiccant. When you get that M18 hex nut in position, you have to use a 27 mm wrench to twist that nut and it will unscrew the desiccant cover where you will remove the drier insert. Please see my earlier post that indicated that what is needed is M18 Hex nut with a wider middle opening. Good luck.
 

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I used a hex hyd fitting to do the trick. The issue I had was after I broke the torque on the cap it moved about a half a turn then froze. When I finally got the cap removed I found a couple of the threads dinged up (semi flatten on one side). I was able to dress them with a thread file, then I ensured everything was ultra clean prior to reassembly.
Thanks
 

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I used a hex hyd fitting to do the trick. The issue I had was after I broke the torque on the cap it moved about a half a turn then froze. When I finally got the cap removed I found a couple of the threads dinged up (semi flatten on one side). I was able to dress them with a thread file, then I ensured everything was ultra clean prior to reassembly.
Thanks
what's a hyd fitting?
I have a set of plumbing tool set from harbor freight ($7.99). I need to grind less than 1 mm off of one piece to make it fit into the hex recess..
 
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