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1985 380sl - charcoal grey w/lt grey interior
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182 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
thanks everyone who helped with my starting problem with my 2000 E320...the battery was only 10.89 volts and would not crank the starter...i charged it and the car starts fine and the battery seems to be holding a charge....i haven't used the car so unsure of the alternator and it has only been 1 day since i charged the battery so unsure whether it is battery or the alternator....i want to make sure the alternator is functioning properly and will have time next week to bring it to the shop and have it checked out.

**in the meantime i have a meeting and will be staying overnight this week and would like to drive the mercedes....i am aware that i should not use a regular trickle charger or larger battery charger with the key in the ignition and was wondering if it is OK TO USE A BATTERY ASSIST UNIT ON THE BATTERY WHILE TRYING TO START IT??...i am referring to those all in one starting batteries that have an air compressor that you charge up and then clamp to your terminals to help aid the battery when starting.

seeing that i cannot use a key in the ignition while the battery is charging, i want to make sure it is ok to use the key and start the car using the battery assist unit.

thanks.
 

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1999 E55, 2001 E320, 1990 560 SEC, 2004 ML350, 2001 ML55, 1995 S500, 1998 SL500, 2010 E550 Sport zoo
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7,035 Posts
So you know the owner's manual instruction are NOT COMPLETE - key MUST be out of the ignition when hooking up, and your car MUST be running when disconnecting or if it hasn't started REMOVE the key again before disconnecting. You can fry a key and/or fry the electronic security system if you do not follow the correct protocol.

There is FREE MB Roadside Assistance for jump starts - and they make sure they follow the CORRECT ley protecting procedure - if they fry something they have to pay for it.

Too much medicinal pot - this is s repeat post from the same situation a few weeks ago - I think, oh I can't remember clearly.
 

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2001 SLK 320(217K Miles), 2002 E320 Special Edition(183K Miles)
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3,467 Posts
So you know the owner's manual instruction are NOT COMPLETE - key MUST be out of the ignition when hooking up, and your car MUST be running when disconnecting or if it hasn't started REMOVE the key again before disconnecting. You can fry a key and/or fry the electronic security system if you do not follow the correct protocol.
I know this has been frequently stated, but I'm a bit in the dark how the key can be fried? Now the warning regarding the actual electronics in the car, I've got no problem with, but the key? There is no physical contact to any of the electronic circuits in the key and the body of the key is non-conducting plastic. As far as I can determine, the key uses infra-red for interfacing with the lock 'cylinder', so again there is no real physical contact.

Maybe somebody can give a scientific explanation for this warning - or is it just an urban legend? :confused::confused:
 

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99 E430, 01 E430 Sport, 00 SL500
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3,266 Posts
My car's battery died after 1 month sitting in the garage. Last week, the car was jump started with the key in the ignition (off position), no fry.
If the key was fried, I'd hire 10,000 lawyers to sue MB engineers.
 

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2001 SLK 320(217K Miles), 2002 E320 Special Edition(183K Miles)
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3,467 Posts
Don't misunderstand me, I don't have a problem with the key out of the ignition when connecting/disconnecting the battery. But that is because having the key in the ignition activates some of the electronic circuits in the car, so those can be damaged. But the key itself?
That raises another question - some keys (like on my SLK) only needs to be in close proximity to the ignition area for the electronic circuits to be enabled, while the newer "in-the-pocket" keys activates all the circuits when you approach the car. So what do you do in that case - leave the key 20 yards from the car??
 
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