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2000 CLK430 2010 S550 4matic
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532 Posts
2nd thumbs up on the battery replacement. Mine was 7 years old and when the car sat during the weekend - opened a door a few times, same for the trunk and moved the seat. Did not start again until Monday morning. Missing a line or two in the shift indicator LED. After about 15 minutes they reappeared and stayed fine all week.

New battery everything was perfect for a few months but even the slightest voltage drops doing the same thing a faint line in the same spot comes and goes when the car is started and idled for about 10 minutes. Voltage related because you can see it come back as a flicker then it remains strong. Weak connection - who knows. Will have to check voltages across the battery or have it tested at the dealership.
 

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2000 SL320, 2001 CLK320
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2,364 Posts
One of the reasons for the display going on/off is heat - if the car is left in the hot sun:wink
 

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1989 300SE (Mitzi); 2003 CLK 430 cabrio (Clifford)
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478 Posts
I just bought an '03 CLK 430 in insanely good shape but, like many of this generation, it suffers handicapped LCD panels. This is SUCH a great post. I can't wait to buy my supplies and sit down to an afternoon of trying to fix them using your approach.

THANK YOU for posting this.
 

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Vehicle: w202 Benz c180 w201 benz 190
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11 Posts
Nice job, must commend u on this..I did mine too in my w202 c180, everything worked perfect, except the speedometer needle that has stopped working again.It just sit there at zero, what should i do?
same think happen to me, it started working after the clean up but after a while the speedo needle just sat there at 0, then one day, curiosity took me to replace the ovp at the hood . Once i did this, the speedo needle started working again till date. If i took back that particular ovp, the speedo needle stopped working So i drew a conclusion to my self, though i cant explain why OVP should affect a speedo needle?
 

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Vehicle: w202 Benz c180 w201 benz 190
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11 Posts
same think happen to me, it started working after the clean up but after a while the speedo needle just sat there at 0, then one day, curiosity took me to replace the ovp at the hood . Once i did this, the speedo needle started working again till date. If i took back that particular ovp, the speedo needle stopped working So i drew a conclusion to my self, though i cant explain why OVP should affect a speedo needle?
same think happen to me, it started working after the clean up but after a while the speedo needle just sat there at 0, then one day, curiosity took me to replace the ovp at the hood . Once i did this, the speedo needle started working again till date. If i took back that particular ovp, the speedo needle stopped working So i drew a conclusion to my self, though i cant explain why OVP should affect a speedo needle?
 

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Premium Member
1989 300SE (Mitzi); 2003 CLK 430 cabrio (Clifford)
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478 Posts
Hi, @Dantus. I realize it was like six years ago that you posted the LCD panel fix. Thank you for taking the time to post such a detailed process! I recently acquired an '03 CLK 430 and have the expected LCD issues, and I used your procedure to attempt the repair.

While I was successful at getting the cluster apart, the holes drilled and then the whole thing put back together again (you're right: keeping out dust is a real challenge because the surface gets electrostatically charged), somewhere I failed the LCD connectors. It's true that they still work—in part—but they're still illegible.

The part where I had confusion is with the removal and reinstallation of the mylar strips and the connectors. The written portion of your process includes using a heat gun to remove the strips from the board and clean them, but I was totally lost on how to reattach. I cleaned the leading edge of the strip as well as the connectors on the board. The next step, according to your pictures, was to somehow use the pencil soldering iron to "roll it over" the connectors with the tape—presumably to reattach. But they don't reattach with heat...it tends to just curl and potentially damage the mylar—which oddly enough has holes in it where it overlays the circuit board. I'm no electrician, so I don't understand how the connections get through this stip of mylar.

What I did instead is to use tiny pieces of tape to hold down the ends of the mylar in the desired position so that when the white plastic frame is remounted and screwed down (using your method) the connections would ostensibly be tight. That didn't work. And I didn't even mess with removing the right-side connector except that I ran my soldering iron over it lightly and attempted to clean it.

So I'm at a loss as to what to do differently the next time I attempt it. I hope this makes sense; I'm wondering if there is any further guidance you can offer.

Thanks much.
 

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clk55 amg
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120 Posts
I know it's not very complete. If you have any questions, ask away.

Cheers.
My clock is missing about 85% pixels, but the temperature is 100% missing. Could the temperature be a different problem like no signal to the display?
 

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2000 C230K
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278 Posts
My clock is missing about 85% pixels, but the temperature is 100% missing. Could the temperature be a different problem like no signal to the display?
Not a different problem, same problem. You can fix yourself as described here or get it fixed. I chose to mail mine and got it fixed with lifetime warranty
 

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Premium Member
1989 300SE (Mitzi); 2003 CLK 430 cabrio (Clifford)
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478 Posts
Not a different problem, same problem. You can fix yourself as described here or get it fixed. I chose to mail mine and got it fixed with lifetime warranty
200_C230 is correct. The crux of the problem lies with the methodology MB used to get the connectors to adhere to the circuit panel; over time the adhesion starts to give way, and the connections that control the pixels goes with it—hence the erratic display.

In theory the repair is not complicated, but it's not as easy to get those connectors to get pinned down tight against the circuit board while simultaneously ensuring that the connection is proper for each pin. I used the method described earlier in this post—drilling holes into the connectors and using screws to hold them down, but to no avail. At that point I gave up because I feared doing some permanent damage that would have me digging a grand or more out of my wallet to buy a new cluster.

This is why I'm with 200_C230: Find a qualified speedo shop and have them do it. I'm in Southern California and found a guy locally that's a speedo expert. The cluster is not hard to remove if you have cluster yanking tools. If you don't have them, you might invest in them; they're not expensive and you'll use them more than once. I took mine to the speedo guy and he repaired it inside of a couple of days for a reasonable $150, and it's been going strong now for two years.
 

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1998 320 CLK
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3 Posts
18 month Bump

My turn.

All three displays on my '98 320 CLK are scrambled.

Since it is all three I'm guessing it is NOT a cable issue. More likely the mother board.

The center display started to pixelate over a period of time ( a couple of weeks ) and when it finally went TU it took the other two with it. Has anyone else experienced this failure mode?

I'm in Southern California and found a guy locally that's a speedo expert.
A link would have been nice... .
 

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clk55 amg
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Due to a different problem I parked the car for a few months in a garage so damp that the interior became covered with mold or mildew. The other effect was that the clock and shift indicator pixels have reappeared, but nada for the thermometer. Has anyone else experienced a similar result?
 
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