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'07 S600, '00 E320 Wagon, other
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Discussion Starter #1
I have replaced the rear shocks (2003 R230 SL500) following the Arnott and StrutMasters videos and all the comments and advice from the bulletin boards. In the process I have discovered that we have been doing it all WRONG. The videos can be watched to see all the steps we should NOT be doing, including removal of trunk carpeting, removal of the brake caliper, and most importantly removal of bolts and arm behind the wheel hub and fighting with pry bars to lower the arm out of the hub, and to put the arm back into the hub and into the rubber bushing which seems impossible to align.

Instead, the strut should be removed FROM THE OPPOSITE END OF THE ARM as follows:

  • With the car on jack stands and wheel removed release the hydraulic pressure (if any) at the bleed nipple, disconnect the oil line at the strut pulling by hand the quick connect (cover the ends to avoid contamination), disconnect the height sensor at the lower arm supporting the strut with 10mm socket and 8 mm spanner
  • Remove 3 bolts: the bolt attaching bottom of the strut to the arm, bolt connecting the stabilizer bar (top rear of the suspension sideways bar) to the wheel hub, and the bolt attaching the arm to the subframe. You are removing the stabilizer bar bolt only so you can push on the bar by hand to clear the arm to subframe bolt for withdrawal. It’s helpful to support the arm with a small hydraulic jack to release any pressure on the bolts when withdrawing them and later for reassembly to re-align them.
  • 2617812
  • (arm to subframe bolt removed)
2617813

(arm lowered and strut removed, ignore missing disc brake removed for other reasons)
  • Pull the corner of the carpet in the trunk above the strut by hand to exposure top of the strut. Disconnect electrical connector and remove 2 bolts holding the strut. When finishing bolt removal with one hand, hold the strut with the other hand so it does not just drop on the floor but is lowered gently. That’s it.
2617814

Reasembly is the reverse. Note how easily and smoothly the arm to subframe bushing is aligned for the bolt with a small jack (up/down) and pushing on the brake rotor (in/out). I also apply blue LockTite on all bolts. Torque to specs.

With everything prepared and wheel removed the strut removal takes literally minutes and requires no physical strength (if bolts are frozen there is enough room for impact wrenches or extension handles). Of course use at your own risk and consult a professional if you don’t normally work on cars.
 

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'07 S600, '00 E320 Wagon, other
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220 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Photos of the strut removal are for the rear right side, photo of the trunk carpet is for rear left strut
 

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'07 S600, '00 E320 Wagon, other
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220 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
BTW, if you just pull the carpet corners in the trunk instead of removing the carpets completely you will likely break the carpet plastic edges around the mounting points of the trunk lid arms. To avoid that it may be good to un-glue/remove and re-glue the edge plastics later, or cut them in a couple of places to introduce a clean folding spots (or of course spend the time removing the carpets if the edge breaking is a concern).
 
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