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W-1-2-3 Go!
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Folks,

Has anybody installed a Homelink/autodimming/compass-equipped mirror in their W123? What power source did you use?

The illuminated sun visors and front dome light always have 12v power so they are not recommended as a power source for the mirror.

I'm thinking of installing one equipped with auto-dimming, Homelink and compass. The standard mirror is 11.5 inches wide, and 2.75 inches tall.
 

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1985 300D W123 Cali
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1,408 Posts
I had modified a sunroof switch, fit into the fader location to operate my opener. no light, but otherwise blends in very well. I used a 9V power source soldered onto the board, but you could probably rig power from the car.
 

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1984 MERCEDES-BENZ 300 TURBO DIESEL, 1978 CHEVROLET K20 CUSTOM DELUXE
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365 Posts
Wow that is a nice mirror for $165. I think that's what he means 165 shipping. I hope its not $165 just for shipping. what a great addition.
 

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W-1-2-3 Go!
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Discussion Starter #6
2Phast modifies and sells the mirrors for W201's, W124's, W126's, and W123's. You might want to ask him.

Link: Mercedes Auto dimming mirrors with Homelink & Compass
Yes, I already have made my purchase and he will build it next week due to me being 5th in his queue. The price quoted is the mirror shipped to the US. It costs more to ship international, but he does that service too.

But I wanted to know whether others have done this modification and if so, where they tapped a switched 12v power source.
 

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1984 MERCEDES-BENZ 300 TURBO DIESEL, 1978 CHEVROLET K20 CUSTOM DELUXE
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365 Posts
cool. I may have to do this on my car. When you receive your mirror make sure to take pictures of the installation and where you tapped into power. I love that someone is making these. :D
 

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1985 Euro 300TD Turbo, 1983 Euro 300TD turbo, 1979 Euro 240TD and 1981 300D converted to euro.
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Yes, I already have made my purchase and he will build it next week due to me being 5th in his queue. The price quoted is the mirror shipped to the US. It costs more to ship international, but he does that service too.

But I wanted to know whether others have done this modification and if so, where they tapped a switched 12v power source.
It will be east to tap into the sun visor lights or dome light.


If you want to have it only be able to get power when the key is in the first position then you will have to remove the driver side A pillar instead of just the dome light.
 

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W-1-2-3 Go!
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Discussion Starter #9
It will be east to tap into the sun visor lights or dome light.


If you want to have it only be able to get power when the key is in the first position then you will have to remove the driver side A pillar instead of just the dome light.
Using a live 12v source is just asking for trouble. I'd prefer a switched 12v as Rik recommended.

How does one remove the A-pillar? I prefer to remove the passenger side pillar, to avoid damaging the VIN tag on the driver side A-pillar.
 

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1984 MERCEDES-BENZ 300 TURBO DIESEL, 1978 CHEVROLET K20 CUSTOM DELUXE
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thats a good idea. the passenger side. When do you expect to have the mirror.
 

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1977 W123.123 1995 W124.034
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W-1-2-3 Go!
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Discussion Starter #13
I just received the custom W123 mirror, so I compared it with a fresh early-style W123 mirror I had in my parts stash.

The new mirror is definitely heftier, due to the added parts. The thickness of the mirror body is significant compared to the thin, older mirror. The older mirror is very light compared to the new one, but certainly feels just as durable.

The ball mount on the new mirror is not as difficult to move as the older mirror, which still retains a very good grip despite the years. The older mirror is slightly wider by an inch (half an inch on both sides), but height is the same. Older mirror has a wider range of adjustment through the ball joint, and slightly less with the anti-glare tab flipped. The anti-glare tab moves the ball mount within the mirror body, so this somewhat lessens the range a little. New mirror has less range, but the range is well within the usable aspect. Older mirror simply was over-engineered to accommodate a wider range.

The older mirror provides a field of view wider than the new mirror, but this wider field of view includes portions of the W123 that are not needed (base of C-pillar is what's covered). In the new mirror, the field of view is still similar.

Those of you who have a newer car with autodimming function will appreciate the new mirror. Those of you who don't have it will take a while to get accustomed to it. Before we had the Subaru Forester (2011), I was so used to the stock W123 mirror with wide-angle Broadway clip-on mirror for better field of view. But I realize now that this is not necessary.

These are just notes from initial observation. I'll document the installation process when I get to it. In the mean time I've got a handful of other small little projects to take care of :D:eek:
 

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W-1-2-3 Go!
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Discussion Starter #14
Notes before we begin:

If you have a W123 with loose mirror mount (stalk to vehicle link), then chances are one or more of the 3 screws holding the base is loose.

There is a way to reinstall the mirror pretty easily, and removing it is as simple as yanking it sideways.

If the mount is loose, it will give you difficulty in removing, because the base is yielding to your pull, preventing the stalk to separate from the base.

Couple of notes from the installation:

The installation went smoothly. Instead of removing the A pillar, I just slipped the extension wires through the sun visor mount holes.

1. Download the auto dimming installation guide from Rik Johnson's site, to get an idea on how to proceed.

2. Remove the mirror by yanking it sideways. GRAB THE STALK, not the mirror.

3. Remove the dome light and electric connections.

4. Remove the sun visor and clip on side you want to run the wires through.

5. Pull out the weatherstrip material that surrounds the door opening. This material is the type that starts from the top of the B pillar, forward to the A pillar, and down to the front portion of the door sill. No need to remove it completely, just out of the way where the dashboard, A pillar and weather strip material meet.

6. Slip a 20 or 22 gauge wire into the sun visor mount opening (not the clip opening) until you reach it from the dome light opening.

7. Slip the other end of the wire into the sun visor mount opening, until you can pull down on the header material and slip the wire out. Run the wire on the rear edge of the A pillar trim, and using a flat blade screwdriver, CAREFULLY push the wires into the space between the A pillar frame and A pillar cover.

8. Slip the end of the wire into the dashboard. This is to be accessed via the glove box opening.

9. Tap any SWITCHED 12V source you wish. In my case I used the glove box door, but note that if you use the glove box power leads, make sure you access the leads closer to the insulation material. This will assure that you will tap the ground wire that is NOT deactivated by the glove box door. Otherwise, the mirror will run only when the glove box is open (and vehicle is running).

10. Mount the mirror and test. If it tests good, then you can reinstall everything back. If not, determine source of problem and troubleshoot.
 

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'86 W123 200, OM617 non-turbo, bastard 5-speed; '95 W202 C250 Diesel, OM605 non-turbo, 5-spd man
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How nice to see the moderators not too high-and-mighty to get their hands dirty:D
 

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1983 300D
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How nice to see the moderators not too high-and-mighty to get their hands dirty:D
I laugh at this. Pat would rather get dirt on his hands than his car! Seen it in person how he was under his car using elbow grease cleaning up everything and willing to turn a wrench.



...
On the other hand, with the help of DeliveryValve, I undertook this challenge while back..

You did all the work. I just sat back and watched! :D

Nice job on the mirror install. Another source of power is the fuse block from under the dash. Little tight to get in there, but I like it so you don't have to splice any wires. I like to tap into the sun roof power lead since it's not in use all the time.

This thread reminds me we still have to hook up your outside temp setup.


.
 

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W-1-2-3 Go!
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Discussion Starter #20
I laugh at this. Pat would rather get dirt on his hands than his car! Seen it in person how he was under his car using elbow grease cleaning up everything and willing to turn a wrench.
I remember that very well! :D

You did all the work. I just sat back and watched! :D

Nice job on the mirror install. Another source of power is the fuse block from under the dash. Little tight to get in there, but I like it so you don't have to splice any wires. I like to tap into the sun roof power lead since it's not in use all the time.

This thread reminds me we still have to hook up your outside temp setup.


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Yes I still have the parts you gave me for the outside temp gauge. :eek: When I plan to do, is install it along with fixing the broken clock (shame on me), and repainting the gauge needles. This way it'll all be in one shot.

While I'm at it I might as well recalibrate the speedo using your backyard method. But that might prove too much for me if I don't know what I'm doing.
 
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