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'84 300D/ dakota benz trk. Sold... miss it. "88 260E '91 190E 2.6 '89 Volvo 240DL "85 300D
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1,252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
guys, has anyone here ever rebuilt an injector? what can wear out on them? i have a project car and i think one is bad. is there a way to verify which one it may be? when i spray a little wd40 in the turbo inlet while turning about 1500 rpm it smooths out a lot. i know that could be many things causing that, however, i have a gut feeling some crud may have gotten into one of the injectors or lines. guy i bought it from was a real brains if you know what i mean.
 

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300SD
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11,263 Posts
The injectors have an internal spring that will eventually get weak and cause pounding noise called injector nailing. Also, the spray nozzle on the tip of the injector can become concave after a long time and spray inefficiently.

Rebuilding an injector properly takes knowledge, correct parts, and special testing equipment. Your best bet is to buy a set of rebuilt injectors from one of the parts supply houses (autohausaz.com. the benzbin.com, etc.)

You can loosen the injector line to each injector one a time and drive the car. If the pounding noise disappears with one particular line loose, you have found the faulty injector. Do not forget to wrap a rag around the loose line, or you'll have the diesel fuel sprayed all over the engine.

Please keep in mind that the pictorial on dieselgiant.com is about replacing the nozzles only with Bosio nozzles. No other parts are replaced. The injectors have to be in good shape to work properly with just the nozzles replaced. To rebuilt an injector properly, one should also install properly shimmed new springs and other new parts. Then the assembled injectors is placed in a special spray pattern tester and injector spray pattern and correct opening pressure are tested.

If you have old worn out injectors, replacing just the nozzles as in this case will not do much for you.
 

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1984 300TD
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60 Posts
well, you can get nozzles for about $30 each, and you can build a poptester for a lot less than paying someone to do it for you, but do you feel comfortable in dealing with this intracate system?

if you do, start out by loosening 1 line at a time from the injector end. when you loosen 1 and nothing changes, that is your culprit.to remove you will need a 27mm loose fitting deep socket- sears craftsman works, for $12ish.

If you are going to disassemble them you will turn upside down and gently clamp in a vise, so as not to distort the rather thin area where the 27 mm goes.

loosen up, then hold over fresh, clean wax paper. from here on out, russ's pics at diesel giant are good. I would not re-install injectors w/ new tips w/ out poptesting them first.

I took in a set from the junkyard, and they all tested out fine, and was not even charged$$. I know of 2 other peeps who have done the same, w/out being charged.

the key is clean, clean, clean. if the threads where they go together are a lil bit dirty, they will leak. I use compressed air and brake cleaner, as well as nitril gloves.

also, use new heat sheilds, and a torque wrench to 70ish ft lbs.
 

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'84 300D/ dakota benz trk. Sold... miss it. "88 260E '91 190E 2.6 '89 Volvo 240DL "85 300D
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1,252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
what if the injector is not totally stopped up? it would change the engine a little but not alot? IE, i have already done what you are suggesting and all inj.s changed the sound a little. i guess i will try it again and see which one changes it the least, and start with that one.
 
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