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1965 W111 220S, 1968 W108 280S, 1970 W108 280SE, 1990 W126 500 SE, 1992 R129 500SL & 1995 E320 S124
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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so I finally delivered the Merc to the Indy today to have the tranny swapped out - seeing as nobody seemed to know of another way to fix the reverse...

I asked him about a slight puff of smoke that the old gal emits from her exhaust when pulling off. I suspected that it would be the valve stem seals. He confirmed my suspicion but, and this is where you guys come in, added that it is pointless only changing the seals. He suggested that the valve guides need to be changed and once you have removed the heads, the block needs to be Heli-coiled as you cannot re-torque the head studs/bolts on these V8 motors due to it being aluminium... The price that all of this would cost is more than what the car is worth!:eek:

He added that it isn't successful only changing the seals and added that it only lasts around six months and the puff is back.:crybaby2: He went on to say that the guides are usually worn to such an extent (when it starts to give the puff on pull-off) that the valve stem wears away the seal in no time...

I have read in a couple of other posts in this forum that guys have only replaced the seals - and there are even pics of the special tool used to compress the springs! Quite a number of you guys seem to have this as a 'normal' maintenance procedure. My question is this: How successful is this procedure and is what the Indy is telling me true?

I would dearly appreciate your input on this issue.
 

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'87 560SEC: '86 AMG 560SEC: '87 560SEL - PAST: Heckflosse 190 & 230S
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Hi Heintz, after looking thru your prior posts, I never found where you stated what the number of miles/KMs on this car is. A factor I'd consider when debating whether to try the band-aid approach of just doing the seals... or a proper job of full replacement.

I have not dealt with this issue (yet), but do not recall reading that new seals might help for only 6 months. Guess it depends how much you drive and actual condition of your valve guides.
 

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1965 W111 220S, 1968 W108 280S, 1970 W108 280SE, 1990 W126 500 SE, 1992 R129 500SL & 1995 E320 S124
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73 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hello,

The car has 295 odd thousand km's on the clock. I will add that the car has a service record with the agents up to 275 000kms...

Thanks for your response!
 

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the block needs to be Heli-coiled as you cannot re-torque the head studs/bolts on these V8 motors due to it being aluminium.
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This statement tells me you should find a new shop. Aluminum has nothing to do with it. (And it's actually Alusil which is an alloy). If the head bolts don't seize in the threads - mine didn't and I pulled the heads twice, then you will have NO PROBLEMS torquing the bolts.
 

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What's the vehicle worthto you. My 1988 560 SEL was in similar need. I agree with MrBits, if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. Expect to replace the seals, guides and several valves. Also the valve train oil lines and clips. If the timing chain and guides have anything near 100-125,000 miles of service replace them also. Timing chain and guide (rails) failure are what kill these cars. The chain climbs the sprocket, cracks the driver-side valve cover and bends the passenger-side valves. Only heli-coil if the threads are damaged and appear ready to fail when torqued.
 

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How much oil are you going through?

Ok, so I finally delivered the Merc to the Indy today to have the tranny swapped out - seeing as nobody seemed to know of another way to fix the reverse...

I asked him about a slight puff of smoke that the old gal emits from her exhaust when pulling off. I suspected that it would be the valve stem seals. He confirmed my suspicion but, and this is where you guys come in, added that it is pointless only changing the seals. He suggested that the valve guides need to be changed and once you have removed the heads, the block needs to be Heli-coiled as you cannot re-torque the head studs/bolts on these V8 motors due to it being aluminium... The price that all of this would cost is more than what the car is worth!:eek:

He added that it isn't successful only changing the seals and added that it only lasts around six months and the puff is back.:crybaby2: He went on to say that the guides are usually worn to such an extent (when it starts to give the puff on pull-off) that the valve stem wears away the seal in no time...

I have read in a couple of other posts in this forum that guys have only replaced the seals - and there are even pics of the special tool used to compress the springs! Quite a number of you guys seem to have this as a 'normal' maintenance procedure. My question is this: How successful is this procedure and is what the Indy is telling me true?

I would dearly appreciate your input on this issue.
I've seen the wood INDY used on this forum a bit. Is that another word for auto mechanic?

As to your "puff of white smoke"..... how much oil are you using? Do you have to add oil in between changes?

IMO I wouldn't mess with the valve seals if the oil usage is within reason and you're not fouling plugs out.

Regards,

Dan
 

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1965 W111 220S, 1968 W108 280S, 1970 W108 280SE, 1990 W126 500 SE, 1992 R129 500SL & 1995 E320 S124
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73 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Guys, thank you for your input. I will take it under serious consideration. I have only had the car a couple of months during which I haven't had the opportunity to really drive the car and get to know it. I cannot tell you what the oil usage is, as I haven't driven it for more than 10mins at a time...

I collected it from the mechanic today and he showed me one or two small things on the car that are quite useful - if you don't know the marque well. I had the opportunity of sitting in traffic for over an hour and noticed that the temperature increases to about 90 degrees celcius. Is this normal?

Again, thank you all for your advice, it is dearly appreciated. The car goes to the panel shop on Monday for a fresh coat of paint..
 
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