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2005 ml 350 VIN 4JGAB57E25A548558
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Discussion Starter #61
You undo two screws lower panel and from above look at the lock. If I remember it actually has arrow on it.
yes it has some markings, but even with lighting, i couldnt make it out. it had the 2 screws which i removed and was trying to force it thru the hold sideways cuz i didnt want to break it. im heading out right after i eat. once i get that panel out, i can fit on the floor laying half in and get the connector off.
thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #62
You undo two screws lower panel and from above look at the lock. If I remember it actually has arrow on it.
ok, thanks for clarifying. i thought u were talking about the connector. yes the obd thing had markings on it, i just couldnt see. im going on right now. thank you , i appreciate it. i will take pics, if i can take off that panel that kicked my ass yest! its said delivery tues for the ignition switch, but it came yesterday
thanks again
 

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Yeah the retaining clips after almost decades old have a tendency to snap, even when pressing them correctly. I think I snapped just about every one on the connections to the ignition coils when doing the spark plugs. good thing is, if it is a plug and socket the MB tolerances are so tight they stay connected with out. Really hoping for you it is the switch. did you check the housing to be sure nothing there is binding.

If I never need to do this think I will just remove the whole collar off the steering column?
 

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Discussion Starter #64
ok, so i got the switch out. after the connector. i took alot of pics. i took one of the switch immediately after removing. and it came out alot easier than the connector. it had some black spots in areas on the switch. there appears to be grease in the cylinder, but the switch was not greasy. couldnt really say it was burns 4 sure, i smelled it. but i smoke, so i cant be certain if it smelled burnt. i tried to get it all the way back on the connector, but wouldnt go all the way on 1 side. i didnt want to break anything on the connector, so i didnt force it. i put screwdriver in it and it took a little persuading to turn. after that 1st turn it turns fairly well still, but there is a bit of hesitation also. im gonna hold of on trying to get it back together in case anyone has anything i forgot to do. since i got the new switch, im very anxious to know if it will be back to normal!
i had my neighbor kid remind me to take pics along the way, as i get too excited and forget.
thanks again for the specifics on the obd connection removal. that thing had me ripping my hair out! and
 

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Discussion Starter #65
sorry didnt mean to post yet. forgot what i was going to say. but i want to thank everyone who assisted me again. the stress level over this has been non existent since coming back on here. because, and again, i have no mechanical abilities, even friends that claim to be mechanics are not always informed on mercedes.
 

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w163 02 ML500 W210 97 E50Amg w202 99 C230K w124 - need more space, time to build again
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sorry didnt mean to post yet. forgot what i was going to say. but i want to thank everyone who assisted me again. the stress level over this has been non existent since coming back on here. because, and again, i have no mechanical abilities, even friends that claim to be mechanics are not always informed on mercedes.
nOw fIx your CAP keY oR rePLace yoUr keyboard sO we cAn alL reAd wHat yoU pOSt a tAD moRE eAsiLy.

pLEaZZe.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #67
u know what they say, what u dont know cant hurt u. so u pointed out i replied to a 12 year old post, and now this. u must b very lonely and miserable huh? i missed the grammar rule. apologies to everyone.
 

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w163 02 ML500 W210 97 E50Amg w202 99 C230K w124 - need more space, time to build again
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u know what they say, what u dont know cant hurt u. so u pointed out i replied to a 12 year old post, and now this. u must b very lonely and miserable huh? i missed the grammar rule. apologies to everyone.
Always good to know people can take comments in stride.
:)
 

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Discussion Starter #70
so everything came out fine. exactly as described. i stopped after struggling for more than an hour. i couldnt get the switch to go back in by itself. so i decided to attach it to the connector, then put both in at once. as soon as i felt the tiniest bit of resistance, i stopped. this has a chance of being the repair where i dont break something else in the process. and it even looks like it should just go with a little bit more pressure. but, i didnt take it out this way, so not sure and i couldnt find specifics on replace or stating you can put both. and is there no way to tell as of yet if the switch was even the culprit?
also wanted to clarify that i have brand new lock cylinder replacement ordered online. and i have zero wafers to put back in the original lock cylinder. it was suggested to me by a neighbor that i just file the 2 that were stuck down. and i seen a similiar post on this site. so i just figured id eliminate the filing. and im not worried someone will steal it. didnt anticipate keys falling out every turn i made.
so i decided to wait fo recomendations.
thanks agian
 

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Discussion Starter #71
i just reread my post. already had new key and lock cylinder (tumbler). was the only thing i thought i needed for the repair. didnt even know anything about immobilizer, or anything else. i just called service manager at benz dealership and asked if there is a chip in my replacement key i ordered from them, he said no. so i thought i knew all i needed to know!! but i just put it in after i wrestled the old one off. the key didnt want to turn at all so i took it out, put my original, minus the wafers, back in and now have the ignition switch attached to the connector. i just slid underneath and it would be shocking t me that they wont go in together. but i stopped cuz its obvious i dont know anything and need to do more reading and listening, rather than just doing.
thanks
 

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so everything came out fine. exactly as described. i stopped after struggling for more than an hour. i couldnt get the switch to go back in by itself. so i decided to attach it to the connector, then put both in at once.
thanks agian
When you started working on lock cylinder what procedure have you used? Exact link or PDF.

All procedures for steering lock, lock cylinder, ignition switch need to be done in position 1.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
i just reread my post. already had new key and lock cylinder (tumbler). was the only thing i thought i needed for the repair. didnt even know anything about immobilizer, or anything else. i just called service manager at benz dealership and asked if there is a chip in my replacement key i ordered from them, he said no. so i thought i knew all i needed to know!! but i just put it in after i wrestled the old one off. the key didnt want to turn at all so i took it out, put my original, minus the wafers, back in and now have the ignition switch attached to the connector. i just slid underneath and it would be shocking t me that they wont go in together. but i stopped cuz its obvious i dont know anything and need to do more reading and listening, rather than just doing.
than
When you started working on lock cylinder what procedure have you used? Exact link or PDF.

All procedures for steering lock, lock cylinder, ignition switch need to be done in position 1.
if that is position when key is removed and inserted, that is where i started and ended.

ks
When you started working on lock cylinder what procedure have you used? Exact link or PDF.

All procedures for steering lock, lock cylinder, ignition switch need to be done in position 1.
was before i joined back, so i doubt i followed any 1 particular procedure. i put key in, turned to 1st pos, then to 2nd. then back 2mm where i removed the tumbler. and that is where i began
 

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2002 ML320, 2003 A160, 2002 ML500, 2018 GLS350d
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... and now have the ignition switch attached to the connector. i just slid underneath and it would be shocking to me that they wont go in together. but i stopped ...
🤦‍♂️ They don’t go in together. The wiring harness connector locks the switch in the housing. Insert the ignition switch first (plastic cylinder). Click it in. Check that the spindle in the housing lines up with the slot in the center of the switch.

Next, insert the harness connector into the switch, as far as it goes. It should click in as well.

(They might go in together, if you force them and break something.)
 

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i just reread my post. already had new key and lock cylinder (tumbler). was the only thing i thought i needed for the repair. didnt even know anything about immobilizer, or anything else. i just called service manager at benz dealership and asked if there is a chip in my replacement key i ordered from them, he said no. so i thought i knew all i needed to know!! but i just put it in after i wrestled the old one off. the key didnt want to turn at all so i took it out, put my original, minus the wafers, back in and now have the ignition switch attached to the connector. i just slid underneath and it would be shocking t me that they wont go in together. but i stopped cuz its obvious i dont know anything and need to do more reading and listening, rather than just doing.
than

if that is position when key is removed and inserted, that is where i started and ended.

ks


was before i joined back, so i doubt i followed any 1 particular procedure. i put key in, turned to 1st pos, then to 2nd. then back 2mm where i removed the tumbler. and that is where i began
Position 0 is when you put key in or remove it.
Position 1 is when SRS and Airbag Off warning lights come on.
Position 2 is when rest of the warning lights come on.
Position 3 is when starter is engaged.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
ok, glad i waited. i normally would have broke something. so i guess replace as removed. 1 more thing, why is there a coaxial and cat5 connector underneath? or did somebody put this in here after production? i dont think that is the case though?
 

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Discussion Starter #77
ok so officially, there are 4 positions for key. i read that someplace else. maybe zin.ru
thanks
 
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