I'd like to know if anyone's felt a difference running synthetic in their car- I have an 83 300TD, I thinking of getting some Mobil1 for the next change. Has anyone noticed anything like quieter running, easier cold starts, temp., etc.?
After a lot of thought I decided against puting mobil 1 in my E220 for the following rea...
After a lot of thought I decided against puting mobil 1 in my E220 for the following reasons. When I put Mobil 1 0w40 in my C180 I was never very happy with it, it seemed to make the car noisier and the tappets seemed to tap for quite a while in the mornings but it did have almost 150,000 miles. My local dealer no longer use it and said they wouldn't put 0w40 in a car later than '98. In the UK Mobil 1 is only available in either 0w40 or 15w50, considering I do quite a lot of short journeys and it's often cold in the mornings were I am the 15w50 seemed a bit too thick for my usage. As I change my oil on average every 3,000 miles I decided to go for a cheaper 10w40 Duckhams oil. It's still synthetic, is part of the Exxon group (as is Mobil and BP) and it's the grade my owners manual recommend.
I have 160,000 miles already, and since day one, oil c...
Thanks for the feedback Tailfin.
I have 160,000 miles already, and since day one, oil changes have always been performed according to the manual (every 7,500 miles, if I remember) with conventional 10w40. The car hasn't been getting much road time lately, so I've been thinking about either:
1.) Using a 10w40 synthetic for the full 7,500 mile interval, or
2.) Using conventional 10w40 and changing every 3,250 miles or so
If you decide to go for 1.) Using a 10w40 synthetic for the full 7,500 mile interval it'...
If you decide to go for 1.) Using a 10w40 synthetic for the full 7,500 mile interval it's advisable to change the filter at say 3,750. Although synthetic oils can now last up to 9,000 miles the filters however still get clogged up.
I would go with a 15w-40 Diesel specific oil such as Mobil Delvac, Shell Rotella or Chevro...
I would go with a 15w-40 Diesel specific oil such as Mobil Delvac, Shell Rotella or Chevron Delo. These oils are specificaly designed to be used in diesel engines. Regular synthetic, while superior in newer cars, I don't think is the right move in an older MB. I tried it once with my 1976 240D and it was quicker to burn off towards the end of the 3,000 mile cycle than the Shell Rotella or Mobil Delvac. You can get both Rotella and Delvac in synthetic, but I would go with just the straight conventional oil and change it every 3,000 miles. And this is from a guy who uses Mobil 1 synthetic in every other car he has ever owned!
BEWARE! Older Mercedes and synthetic oils do not mix! That is unless you do a thorough r...
BEWARE! Older Mercedes and synthetic oils do not mix! That is unless you do a thorough rebuild on your engine. I would recommend that you stay with a 15w-40 diesel specific oil or an SAE 30 diesel oil and just not worry about the synthetic stuff. My family has several older Mercedes and I have tried synthetics in them at one time or another. It was money that may as well have been flushed down the commode. My 300 TD disliked the synthetic so much that it spewed and vomitted it from every crack and crevice that it could find. And this from an engine that had not a single oil leak previous to using synthetic. I'm not kidding, I'll go to the ends of the earth to stop an oil leak, believe me, just ask my girlfriend. At any rate, just remember.....old mercedes + old diesel engine + slippery synthetic oil = bad news.
I think Seanrob is right here. A synthetic oil washes all old dirt from inside of t...
I think Seanrob is right here. A synthetic oil washes all old dirt from inside of the engine and can make sealings leak. It can even move around the dirt and make oilchannels clog up. If synthetic is used, it would be used from the car was new. Otherwise i would go for a good quality mineral oil, and put the money on more frequent changes.
my experience with synt. oil comes from running it briefly (2-3 oil changes) in a high mil...
my experience with synt. oil comes from running it briefly (2-3 oil changes) in a high mileage gas engine. i would not run synth oil again. here are a few reasons.
a) synth oil seems to get thinner than conventional oil when at operating temps and it finds any and every nook and kranny to seep from.
b) synth oil is expensive, especially when you pour it in only to have it leak right out
c) as stated above the oil maybe ok for 9K but the filter needs to be replaced after a liitle less than half that, usually you will be adding a quart when you change filters. not to mention your only 10 more minutes away from a complete oil change.
i think most are better off using a good regular oil,a non-fram filter, and change the oil every 3k and be done with it.
Hello, I am scratching my head wondering how to remove the Left side mount which is mostly hidden. From the top, no way to get to the 6 mm Allen head bolt or someone has he got a bright idea to do that... or should I hire a contorsionist?
So if you remember I had ignition problems and found out the the ignition module on the fender was bad, replaced, fired right up! Soon after it stalled on the wife (not good) when I got to the car it fired up like nothing, hmm. Drove home and left it running, went in the house came outside and...
I will be recovering the front and back seat in my '85 coupe soon with new leather upholstery and was wondering if anyone knows if the front bucket seat plastic trim pieces are still available from MB. I looked online for a place that shows a detailed parts breakdown, but couldn't find...
Differences between the European and North American market w123s. Feel free to add to the list! :thumbsup:
Sedans & wagons
-Thin 1-piece bumpers with rubber ends
-European headlights & tail lights without reflectors
-Wagons have one reverse light and one rear fog light
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