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Today, for the first time, I filled my tank with biodisel, a 50/50 blend of b100 and dino diesel. I'm very excited about the switch. I will continue with a 50/50 blend until I know all the sludge is gone, then switch to straight b100. I am carrying a set of filters for when needed. After the fillup, there was an immediate noticable change in the sound of the engine, a smoother running sound. And the smell, oh how I love the smell of popcorn coming from my tailpipe.

SOY POWER!!!

Gary
 

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Discussion Starter #3
karugs - 3/5/2005 6:30 PM

I wonder how it would smell like to follow your car...

Did you find a biodiesel station there or did you make your own?

[:D]
There is a station here in Eugene, OR and in Portland, Corvallis and Medford. The company is sqbiofuels.com .

Gary
 

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I was eventually thinking about doing this. How much do they charge you per gallon from a group like that? couldn't be more then a dollar.

but I hear making your own costs about 70 cents a gallon.
 

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OneMnk - 3/5/2005 1:53 AM

I was eventually thinking about doing this. How much do they charge you per gallon from a group like that? couldn't be more then a dollar.

but I hear making your own costs about 70 cents a gallon.
A dollar a gallon? I wish! I paid $3.50/gal. About a dollar/gallon more than dino diesel.

Gary
 

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3.50!? what? It costs more then regular diesel!

Ya thats the average cost to make your own biodiesel is about 70 cents a gallon. It involves taking a restuarants vegi oil and producing it at your own home with a few not really toxic chemicals. I think its really worth it if you could get a good system going.
 

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Imagine an electric power plant running diesel engines on WVO. Clean, practically free electricity! BTW our 3.0L turbodiesels produce 91 kilowats at maximum power, imagine how much electricity could be produced running 4-5 large diesels.
 

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OneMnk - 3/6/2005 2:12 PM

3.50!? what? It costs more then regular diesel!

Ya thats the average cost to make your own biodiesel is about 70 cents a gallon. It involves taking a restuarants vegi oil and producing it at your own home with a few not really toxic chemicals. I think its really worth it if you could get a good system going.
After start up costs, and there are some, you can produce better than commercial quality biodiesel for about .43/liter (X 3.78=US$1.63 converted to USD=$1.38USgal)
The chems used are methanol and sodium/potassium hydroxide (lye) to form methoxide. Each is nasty on it's own and the combination just makes it more so.The fumes are toxic and can lead to a variety of problems so care in handling and uses in processing are mandatory. I use a closed reactor as should anyone getting into homebrew biodiesel.
Not only does the car sound smoother, it also gets a good inner cleaning, reduces emissions at the tailpipe (16 toxins eliminated) but the fuel is actually better for the engine as it's lubricating properties are superior to dino (dinosaur/fosil fuel)and as such help in promoting less engine wear extending engine life.
I will repeat it yet agin, as I have in other posts, that you will experience screen sediment filter clog up as soon as you start running B100 due to it's superior cleansing properties, so to avoid a costly tow truck call just for a filter I recommend stripping the screen from the in-the-tank-screen filter and installing a seperate exterior in-lime one just at the tank's exit point, so that when it clogs, and it will, all you have to do is spend a few minutes to change it out. A clear universal one such as the one on this page:
http://www.marinegeneral.com/acatalog/Online_Catalog_Fuel_Filters_Water_Separators___Senders___Misc__347.html (Scroll down) works well and there are replacement elements that you can get with them making the switch easier.
My BD reactor/wash tank set up:
http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_processor12.html
 

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BioBenz - How long have you been running your car ob b100? I was curious ab out whether there are any rubber seals that will suffer. I intend to start making it myself but until then I have a source that will sell me a 55 gal. drum at $3/gal. Although this is not cheap, I will work into the production mode over time.
 

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Congrats Gary!

Just curious, none of those homebrew price/gallon figures include any sort of compensation for your own time collecting and processing, right?

Anyhow, the biodiesel rocks! I've been doing b100 since last summer (blended to about b50 during a couple months of winter just to be safe) and it is great. I haven't had to change a filter yet, but then I have a freshly rebuilt engine so everything seems pretty clean in there.

However, the inter-injector lines are definitely starting to go - you can see fuel seeping out of one of them. I guess I'm going to have to replace those sometime soon [:0]

... that reminds me -- does anyone know where I could find the dimensions (ID/OD) for the inter-injector lines, or whatever they're called? Or are they fairly easy to disconnect and measure? I'm afraid of getting them unhooked and then being stuck until I get new ones, and this is our only car. Thanks!
 

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ndcv - 3/20/2005 2:26 AM


However, the inter-injector lines are definitely starting to go - you can see fuel seeping out of one of them. I guess I'm going to have to replace those sometime soon [:0]

... that reminds me -- does anyone know where I could find the dimensions (ID/OD) for the inter-injector lines, or whatever they're called? Or are they fairly easy to disconnect and measure? I'm afraid of getting them unhooked and then being stuck until I get new ones, and this is our only car. Thanks!
injector return line.
that's one item you should really get from the dealer.
you will pay a bit more but it will be worth it.
aftermarket just don't fit right and will leak (been there..) don't take the old ones off til you cut new ones! there will be fuel all over!
 

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I started making my own Biodiesel last year. I got a steady supply from a Chinese restaurant that always titrates to the same amount, so it is consistent.
Your own time in making BD is not calcualted as it should be considered something you do for relaxation, like a hobby. It just so happens that it is a very very practical hobby [:D]
I ran several tanks of B100, even went on holidays with a full tank and brought some along for the trip back. Had to use a little dino on the way but as soon as the BD went back in the engine smoothed right out, a noticeable difference.
Then it happened, The dreaded filter clog. I was expecting it and it wasn't a big surprise, but what was a surprise was that it was the screen sediment filter INSIDE the fuel tank that gummed up, and my not being any more mechanically inclined than a toad had a "pro" do it, and replace the fuel lines while at it. (yeah, overkill, but at least that won't be a problem)
In some instances the rubber components will wear quickly with B100, although for the most part this does not happen and the mid to late 80's vehicles are fine with it. It is the rpe-80's that seem to have had the probs but they are not catastrophic and you get to see them coming.
My suggestion for anyone planning on going biodiesel with a Benz is to strip the screening off the sediment filter inside the tank and replace it with an in-line filter at the exit point OUTSIDE the tank, so when it clogs, and it will, it can easily be changed.
On the subject of the IP return lines. I am also in the process of doing a two tank conversion to the 240D and that requires many hose switchings. For the greater part we used .312 ID braided hose. This slips perefectly over the nipples where the semi-clear (amber) lines to and from the filter, lift pump ect go. I am only assuming that these are the same as the IP returns in ID (Inner Dimension).
Biodiesel is eco friendly, a win win all the way down the line, however at the beginning it's superior cleansing properties will make themselves validated. Once the gunk is all rooted up and tossed into an unsuspecting filter(s) then it is done for good. In most cases these cars have 20 years of accumulated gunge in the fuel tank,lines and pump that will be cleaned out.
Anyone using SVO in a DI engine should seriously consider B100 for every fourth tank fills to be sure that there are not any coking issues going on that could be troublesome down the road (or on the side of it).
My second, heated, tank will have the option of using SVO/WVO as fuel although my primary use is for biodiesel. In the warm months I have installed ball valves to close off the heat source (radiator cooling fluid) from going to the trunk tank, but in the colder months I will open up these valves and get a hot system from trunk to IP thereby eliminating the dreaded cold weather BD geling problem and negating the need to add any specialty additives or blend with any dino at all. It will be viable even to -25C (13 below F)as the fuel will be at 80C (180F) from tank to IP. Once completely finished I figure I should be able to fuel commercially about 1 or at tops 2 times a year, and this in the cold months only,as B100 will be the stapple the rest of the time. With the two tank system you start on dino but run B100 (SVO/WVO) as soon as the engine is hot and then before it is time to shut down you switch back over to dino to prime the system for the next start.
 
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