I was pretty pissed. I have a S420 with 64k on it. It's under an Easycare (Ford) warranty. Figured I'd take it in to fix all the things wrong when I bought it before putting the 18's on. I made him a list.
Engine Ticking (oiler tubes). Noticed it faintly about a month after I bought it. Got progressivly worst over time.
Rough down shift only when stopping slowly (on cold starts) and long second gear.
Subwoofer crackling.
Passenger side headlight wiper motor.
Outside temp indicator.
Trunk close assist not working.
Radio would hold stations.
I took it thursday and today which is tuesday. he just finished his evaluation. That's way too long. I been paying $30 a day for a rental and the warranty company coverage doesn't kick in until he can tell them what's wrong. Should have let me use the CL 55 on the lot for sale. I told him he lost my confidence in him and I was pulling my car. Funny. Warranty guy was leaving when I arrived. I went in steaming and he showed me (on the car) the damages:
Micro sensor in trunk latch needed replacing. (covered).
Leak from steering pump. Common problem he said. (covered)
Leak from differental. (covered)I don't have any spots in the garage at all. Hmmmmmmm?
Leak from a sensor on the side of trans. (not covered). Fluid had not leaked more than an inch from sensor so warranty inspector refused. Owner said he should replace the whole sensor too. But I'll just replace the o-ring myself with you guys help. please?
Cracklin subwoofer believed to be the amp because when they move wires from the other speaker, sub played find. (covered).
Radio wouldn't hold stations because antennae amplifier is missing. He wanted $64 for amp and $85 for labor. Refused I'll do it myself. (not covered).
Wiper motor (covered).
All new oiler tubes (covered). He advised they all be replaced. He said this is a 14.5 hr job and the cam had to be removed. But I swore I read here theres another way by replacing every other one? I let him do them because they where covered. I kill him if he messes up "Beonka".
Outside temp sensor. (not covered). warranty man said it was corroded and cracked. And it was cracked all around the sensor. Indy said the whole wire should be changed. Wanted $34 for the sensor and wire and $85 x 2 hrs for labor. I read on here to just trace the wire and cut the bad section off. I'll do it myself.
But he could not find out whats wrong with the trans. He (owner) lied and said the engine was ticking too bad to drive on the phone but the mechanic told me drove it twice and noticed what i did but couldn't make the call. He said he reprogrammed it and it may help or may not. The owner said "just wait to it gets worst and we will be able to tell. These are complexed cars and problems arent easy to figure. The warranty company will pay but if I break it down and dont find a problem you'll have to pay. It's a small problem and your cars is in good shape. Don't you have a year and some change left on the warranty". YES WITH A $200 DEDUCTIBLE every incident, [email protected]# HOLE. I believe he just doesn't know what it is. I feel a rough down shift into first when slowly stopping mostly on cold starts. If I make a regular stop nothing. But if I creep up to the light there it is. Kind of lunges forward. And second gear holds too long. If I slow to turn a corner the car picks up realy slowly mostly in the mornings. As if I were in a stick shift and needed to down shift. My searching on here leads me to believe it's a loose band, B1 or B2 if that makes any sense. I'll have to try the stealer in a few weeks or so.
I will never go there again (Euro Tech, Royal Oak, MI). The shop had no computers at all and was dirty. No tire machine. Wheel balancer. Shady Tree's have more equipment. Most of the cars in service were W126's. Anybody know a good indy in metro detroit? Could not find Carl Heinz but I heard he's good. Without this forum he would have took me for about $500 when I could do it myself for way less. Your comments are more than welcome as usual.
Thanks for listening.
Donwuan
Engine Ticking (oiler tubes). Noticed it faintly about a month after I bought it. Got progressivly worst over time.
Rough down shift only when stopping slowly (on cold starts) and long second gear.
Subwoofer crackling.
Passenger side headlight wiper motor.
Outside temp indicator.
Trunk close assist not working.
Radio would hold stations.
I took it thursday and today which is tuesday. he just finished his evaluation. That's way too long. I been paying $30 a day for a rental and the warranty company coverage doesn't kick in until he can tell them what's wrong. Should have let me use the CL 55 on the lot for sale. I told him he lost my confidence in him and I was pulling my car. Funny. Warranty guy was leaving when I arrived. I went in steaming and he showed me (on the car) the damages:
Micro sensor in trunk latch needed replacing. (covered).
Leak from steering pump. Common problem he said. (covered)
Leak from differental. (covered)I don't have any spots in the garage at all. Hmmmmmmm?
Leak from a sensor on the side of trans. (not covered). Fluid had not leaked more than an inch from sensor so warranty inspector refused. Owner said he should replace the whole sensor too. But I'll just replace the o-ring myself with you guys help. please?
Cracklin subwoofer believed to be the amp because when they move wires from the other speaker, sub played find. (covered).
Radio wouldn't hold stations because antennae amplifier is missing. He wanted $64 for amp and $85 for labor. Refused I'll do it myself. (not covered).
Wiper motor (covered).
All new oiler tubes (covered). He advised they all be replaced. He said this is a 14.5 hr job and the cam had to be removed. But I swore I read here theres another way by replacing every other one? I let him do them because they where covered. I kill him if he messes up "Beonka".
Outside temp sensor. (not covered). warranty man said it was corroded and cracked. And it was cracked all around the sensor. Indy said the whole wire should be changed. Wanted $34 for the sensor and wire and $85 x 2 hrs for labor. I read on here to just trace the wire and cut the bad section off. I'll do it myself.
But he could not find out whats wrong with the trans. He (owner) lied and said the engine was ticking too bad to drive on the phone but the mechanic told me drove it twice and noticed what i did but couldn't make the call. He said he reprogrammed it and it may help or may not. The owner said "just wait to it gets worst and we will be able to tell. These are complexed cars and problems arent easy to figure. The warranty company will pay but if I break it down and dont find a problem you'll have to pay. It's a small problem and your cars is in good shape. Don't you have a year and some change left on the warranty". YES WITH A $200 DEDUCTIBLE every incident, [email protected]# HOLE. I believe he just doesn't know what it is. I feel a rough down shift into first when slowly stopping mostly on cold starts. If I make a regular stop nothing. But if I creep up to the light there it is. Kind of lunges forward. And second gear holds too long. If I slow to turn a corner the car picks up realy slowly mostly in the mornings. As if I were in a stick shift and needed to down shift. My searching on here leads me to believe it's a loose band, B1 or B2 if that makes any sense. I'll have to try the stealer in a few weeks or so.
I will never go there again (Euro Tech, Royal Oak, MI). The shop had no computers at all and was dirty. No tire machine. Wheel balancer. Shady Tree's have more equipment. Most of the cars in service were W126's. Anybody know a good indy in metro detroit? Could not find Carl Heinz but I heard he's good. Without this forum he would have took me for about $500 when I could do it myself for way less. Your comments are more than welcome as usual.
Thanks for listening.
Donwuan
