Ok heres the deal I have read this forum for a while and found so really helpful stuff about MAFs and stuff. My car idles around 200 rpms and I have changed the MAFand the Overvoltage protection relay there are no codes before all this the wiring harness was change along with the coild packs. Any ideas would be helpful.
I dont have a clue
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when did you start having these issues. did it just start all the sudden or was it a gradual decline in rpm over time. when was the last time you changed the spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter? have you tried cleaning the throttle body? it is also possible you have a vacuum leak. do you hear any hissing when you have the hood open? also, just out of curiosity, what kind of gas mileage do you get with your car in this condition?
If I disconect the MAF the idle comes back up. as for the spark plug they were changed with the coil packs and wiring harness. no hissing noise, check the air filter and it seems fine. This low RPM thingy happened all of the sudden. as in ran find the night before and not at all fine the next morning. As for gas millage I haven driven it at at all
MAF
By disconnecting the MAF and having it run BETTER in default mode that pretty much says your new MAF is NO good. That is the obvious answer anyway. Slight chance of a wiring issue etc.
Where did you get your new MAF, is it a BOSCH and the right one? Do you still have the old one?
Good Luck & Welcome to the Forum!:thumbsup:
C as in 220
By disconnecting the MAF and having it run BETTER in default mode that pretty much says your new MAF is NO good. That is the obvious answer anyway. Slight chance of a wiring issue etc.
Where did you get your new MAF, is it a BOSCH and the right one? Do you still have the old one?
Good Luck & Welcome to the Forum!:thumbsup:
C as in 220
There's the maf wonder boy... was wondering if he was on vacation 
Maybe in your search you have found this?
How to test and replace mass air flow sensors | Wonder How To
After the fits I have had with this sensor I now keep a spare on hand.
Have you done a scan for stored codes? How many miles are on the car?
Throttle body cleaning has become a regular thing to do for me, change oil-clean TB.
B
Maybe in your search you have found this?
How to test and replace mass air flow sensors | Wonder How To
After the fits I have had with this sensor I now keep a spare on hand.
Have you done a scan for stored codes? How many miles are on the car?
Throttle body cleaning has become a regular thing to do for me, change oil-clean TB.
B
as cj noted, since changing the maf didnt solve the problem, but it does run better in default, it would indicated a problem with the maf.
i would check your wiring. is there any degraded insulation?
i would check your wiring. is there any degraded insulation?
T.B Cleaning
Have you looked inside your Throttle Body? If it is dirty you can get some similar problems. Beyond that, your T.B. Acctuator Wiper could be dirty or shot. Sarat is going through the same thing right now and has left his car at the Stealership. Keep track of his Thread and you may have your answer in a day or so.
It is bizarre that the MAF runs better unplugged though. Maybe it's time to look over the rewired harness...
Good Luck!:thumbsup:
C as in 220.
Have you looked inside your Throttle Body? If it is dirty you can get some similar problems. Beyond that, your T.B. Acctuator Wiper could be dirty or shot. Sarat is going through the same thing right now and has left his car at the Stealership. Keep track of his Thread and you may have your answer in a day or so.
It is bizarre that the MAF runs better unplugged though. Maybe it's time to look over the rewired harness...
Good Luck!:thumbsup:
C as in 220.
the area circled in red is the throttle body. the other stuff on the picture shows you what needs to be done to remove the air duct to access the butterfly valve in the throttle body.
Attachments
T.B.
Here's what it looks like off the car:
Part Number Image
With the nice pic. liquid posted for you, your good to go with some T.B. Spray Cleaner of course.
Good Luck!:thumbsup:
C as in 220
Here's what it looks like off the car:
Part Number Image
With the nice pic. liquid posted for you, your good to go with some T.B. Spray Cleaner of course.
Good Luck!:thumbsup:
C as in 220
Ok so I cleaned the throttle body thingy and when I started it the idle was low. as the car warmed up the idle came up to normal. five minutes later the idlle climbed up to 1500 rpm but when I shift into D or R it comes back to normal. So the question now is what the hell if going on ROFLMAO. any input would help thanks
Change is good (in this case)
It sounds like you effected a change! After all the crapola from the T.B. cleaner ran through the system how did it idle after a drive at freeway speeds? It would help to kind of blow out the system with a good high speed drive (60-70 mph) and see what it settles out at. Xvvvz reccomends cleaning the plugs if you had to use a lot of cleaner or if it seems rough afterwards.
Is your C still idling higher (closer to normal) with the MAF disconnected? That is a bit mysterious. The computer uses info from the MAF and the T.B. to determine how much fuel goes to the cylinders, so often idle problems start with those two components.
The wiper for the T.B. is under the cover opposite where the cable comes into it. Don't remove it until everything else is eliminated.
Hang in there, I think you are close to a solution.
Good Luck!:thumbsup:
C as in 220
It sounds like you effected a change! After all the crapola from the T.B. cleaner ran through the system how did it idle after a drive at freeway speeds? It would help to kind of blow out the system with a good high speed drive (60-70 mph) and see what it settles out at. Xvvvz reccomends cleaning the plugs if you had to use a lot of cleaner or if it seems rough afterwards.
Is your C still idling higher (closer to normal) with the MAF disconnected? That is a bit mysterious. The computer uses info from the MAF and the T.B. to determine how much fuel goes to the cylinders, so often idle problems start with those two components.
The wiper for the T.B. is under the cover opposite where the cable comes into it. Don't remove it until everything else is eliminated.
Hang in there, I think you are close to a solution.
Good Luck!:thumbsup:
C as in 220
Tell me if I am wrong but the resonate flap is next to the throttle body and it has a hose connected to it and there is another tube does this connect to anything. since I now have a what seems to be a vaccum leak in this area and it is hissing. Does this cause the tranny to shift hard when going from park to drive?
i am not familiar with the 280 throttle body, but there is a vacuum line that goes from the intake to the transmission modulator, and that could cause harsh gear engagement.
Vacuum issue
You have just found the clue that is probably your last link to solving your idle and hard shift issue. Congratulations! Vacuum leaks are notorious for low idle, rough idle etc.
Now that my neck is out there, I hope that is your last problem and she's purring again soon.
Good Luck!:thumbsup:
C as in 220
You have just found the clue that is probably your last link to solving your idle and hard shift issue. Congratulations! Vacuum leaks are notorious for low idle, rough idle etc.
Now that my neck is out there, I hope that is your last problem and she's purring again soon.
Good Luck!:thumbsup:
C as in 220
Well I have changed the MAF. OVP cleaned the throttle body and I have a high idle about 1500 RPMS. Was wondering if driving it on the highway for a while will help me with this issue. I cant find any vacuum leaks and the Tranny is shifting normal now. Any input would be helpful.
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