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1999 E320, 2001 E320, 2004 S430
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My windshield washer tank has been leaking. This time it is from around the washer water pump. I thought it maybe the hose and I can just cut that front section hose off and reuse the hose. After I cut it, I then found out that there are wires embedded in the hose. The wires appears to be countinuous originally and not plugged into any connector. I now have an open loop.

I pulled the wires out form the pump (under the pump?). The wires has enough length to go under (?) /inside (?) the pump. Can't be inside the hose connector.

The pump still works.

Could you provide some help here? what is it for? Does it hurt to leave it open? Should I short it? (I'm not sure it was countinuous before, I assume it was. I pulled out the wires from (under?) the water pump.
 

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1999 E320, 2001 E320, 2004 S430
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Pictures attached.

I think I need a new "pump grommet", (Rubber Grommet Windshield Washer Pump to Washer Reservoir. Part# : 123 997 36 81 ) not sure how to do it though. Probably just brute force pull the pump out and change the grommet and reinsert the pump.

Any tip is appreciated.
 

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1922 Ford T no OBD, no ECU, no SCN
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Most likely heater wire. Not likely needed in So California.
Pump has to be removed by properly directed force. There is nothing more to hold it than tank shape.
The grommets are the story on its own. Those 30 years old are still holding in older models, while those manufactured in late 1990's and 2000's fail. Sounds like the grommets come from the same supplier that did harmonic balancers for those models.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
If it's heater, and it's cut open, the current stops flowing throught it. I'd assume it's okay to leave it open. It does not appear that it could short to nearby ground.

To replace the pump, it appears to be a direct upward lift force to remove it. Tomorrow, I'll try to get the grommet from the dealer and try to replace it. I'll attemp to short those two wires also to restore it to it's original state.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Interesting.

The logic behind it is probably they (MB engineers) think that if you need to turn on the rear defogger, you probably need heat for the windshield washer line, and other things.

Thanks for the tip. It's important to know.

I probably should avoid turn on the rear defogger before it's fixed. Well, I guess there is no need for me to do that for now. In winter, from time to time, I need to do just that becasue I park ouside around 32˚ F.

I do plan to solder the section of the wire (that was cut off) back and use heat shrink wrap to shield it. Then tuck it to the side of the pump as it was.

I guess that's similar to investigate before you dig into ground to avoid dig into the gas line. :)

Around my house, when I need to nail anything onto the wall, I cut open a little hole to look behind the plaster to make sure that there is no pipes behind the plaster. The builders do put many pipes/wires behind the plasters.

It was my bad this time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Resistor wire is hard to solder. You might want to crimp it. /QUOTE]

Another good tip. Thanks so much.

I traced the hose. It goes all the way to the nozzle and two wires come back to the fuse box. I'd asusme that removing the washer related fuses, i.e., 43 (windshield washer system), 42 (washer water heater), is a good thing to do for now. 41 controls too many other systems and not a good thing to remove. 42 and 43 for sure are washer only fuses.

Looking at the little section hose that was cut off against the light shows that it's a special hose, some kind of silicon (maybe) type interior, probably heat conductive. It's definitely not a regular hose that we buy from auto stores.
 
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