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S600 C140 1994
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537 Posts
Discussion Starter #1


















I did both sides and I´m very happy with the result. :)
 

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1993 300SEL (Sold) 2007 X5
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7,218 Posts
What were the symptoms that they needed changing? And how long did it take if you don't mind.
 

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S600 C140 1994
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537 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The first side I changed on took me about 10-12 hours. (!)
Only because the spring compressor got broken so I had to compress the spring beside the car to get it in place again and that was a tough job!

The other sid only took me about 4 hours with the new home made compressor you can see on the pictures.

The job wasnt hard at all. The springs were the biggest problems.

I had the car in for a front wheel adjustment but my macanic said that I had to changes the bushings to be able to adjust the wheels.
The front of the car looked low and I also could feel it in the steering wheel that something was wrong with the front axel.

Now the car has the right hight and the wheels are also straight.
In the near feature I should have my mechanic to adjust the wheels for me sence I´ve had the suspension apart.
 

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Premium Member
1997 S600 (sold)
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4,660 Posts
Nice work. What was the press gadget that you used to put the bushings in? Some kind of kit or just something you put together yourself? What did you lube the bushings with.

This is a job I'm facing in the future for sure.

Brett
 

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S600 C140 1994
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537 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Brett San Diego said:
Nice work. What was the press gadget that you used to put the bushings in? Some kind of kit or just something you put together yourself? What did you lube the bushings with.

This is a job I'm facing in the future for sure.

Brett
Above in the bottom of the first picture you can see what I use to press the bushings in with.
Just something I put together myself.
Cost about 100 SEK (15 US dollar).
I put greas on the bushings to get them in place.

I´m surprised that this job was so easy.

Just be careful with the springs. They are really powerful!!

This is what happend with the spring compressors I bought and used on the first side I changed on. The compressors slipped over to the same side of the spring.


It was a hard job putting it back on place.


And this is my home made kompressor.
 

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1993 Mercedes-Benz 300SE & 1998 Mercedes-Benz C230
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258 Posts
Impressive! I had to use grease also to insert the lower control arm rubber bushings (1993 Benz 300SE), but then purchased the Baum hydraulic kit. Mine had to be changed due to a steering wheel vibration and squeeking. My mechanic friend actually used the weight of the car and a hydraulic jack to control the spring vs. the spring compressors.
 

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S600 C140 1994
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537 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
dbmoylan>> I also had vibrations before but only with the summer wheels. I still run with winter wheels but I hope the vibrations disapear after this.

This is the new look of the car. Its not easy to illustrate the difference but the car is higher (only about ½ inch) from the ground in the front and also straight wheels. You can use the rim and the crom on the fender and bumper as reference.

Now


Before
 

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1997 S500V
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272 Posts
HI Mr. Wallin,

I just did my lower control arm bushing thanks to your great ideas and pix.
I still have a tiny wheel shimmy but haven't replaced my upper control arms. Did you notice a big improvement after replacing the uppers?

Were you old uppers loose once disconnected from the wheel spindle?? Mine are smooth and easily movable once disconnected...

Thx,
Mo
 

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1997 S600 Coupe (have owned 1968 280SL, 1978 450SEL, 1980 300TD, 1987 300SDL, 1993 500SEL,1994 E320)
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21 Posts
Shimmy problem

Jonathan,
Outstanding write-up!

MOS500,
I don't want to hijack this thread, but another possible reason for your continued shimmy is the center/drag link. I recently replaced the one on my S600 Coupe and the one in my 500SEL a few months before I sold it. Once I did that the shimmy in each car was gone. I had also replaced the upper control arm on one side of the 500SEL, but that did not correct the shimmy. The drag links each had a totally loose "ball joint type" fitting. That loss of stiffness, etc. allowed the wheel on the right (passenger) side of car to oscillate at some frequency, depending on speed, which was the shimmy being felt at the steering wheel. The link in the coupe was so bad that a slight shimmy was noticeable at very low speeds. The tires had recently been rotated and balanced, so I didn't feel they were the problem.

The drag link is very easy to replace and installing a new steering damper at the same time would help with the overall performance of the steering. The damper attaches to the drag link on one end and the car on the other. The drag link attaches to the the idler arm on one end and the steering gear control/pitman arm on the other. I needed to use a puller to get the ends of drag link out. Not a big problem but I had access to a lift rack so it was very easy to reach all of these fittings. I am sure others here have done this in their garage, most likely using ramps to elevate the front of the car to gain easier access to the drag link ends.
Just an idea. Hope this helps.
 

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1997 S500V
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272 Posts
Redflash,

Thanks for your input! I replaced the steering damper a couple months ago and today, I just did the sway bar bushings. I guess my approach, is to replace one item at a time until the condition improves. I'll look into the drag link!

Thx,
Mo
 
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