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hypoid is contaminated by grease

2423 Views 16 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  vantunes
Every time I change the hypoid gear oil from the front differential, I found that the hypoid is contaminated by grease, I guess that grease is from swivel housing. My question is: That problem should be solved at once or it can be delayed for more convenient time?
230GE 85
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Hypoid is probably going the other way into the hub as well. It means doing a front axle service to get to the seals. The axle shafts need to be removed to replace those seals in the ends of the housing. If it was happening in my rig I would not wait long to address the issue. I would worry that the grease might be transfering contaminants into the diff that might lead to bearing/gear wear. Hopefully others will comment. Best of luck with it.

My '85GD has a 730300 10 front axle and the serial number of my truck is lower than yours. I think it is safe to say your axle has outboard seals. I think the part number is 009 997 28 47 but double check it. You will need one for each side. They are quite expensive viton seals and it may be a case where a less expensive generic might work fine. I bought all MB seals for the front axle service and most of them are superior to generic seals; extra sealing lips and features not available in generic seals of the same size. The axle seal is a pretty standard looking thing other than being made of viton. Good luck,

If your truck has around 100,000 miles or more and has not had the swivel balls and bearing service it is probably time to do it. It is similar to a LR service. A lot of Land Rovers are sold in this country about the time the owner realizes they have to do this service. The Axle Nuts are unique and need a special tool. My '85 needed updated nuts to mate with the MB claw socket wrench I purchased. I would recommend 4 new nuts and 2 lockrings. Buy all MB seals with the exception of the axle seals which were around $33 US each and locally sourced seals will likely work there. All of the bearings can be sourced through bearing supply houses and are 1/2 the price of those through the MB parts system. I used Timken and NTN bearings and I think the NTNs are of outstanding quality. Look at Dave Gomes' tech articles on the Clubgwagen site and his parts list. Both are excellent and will provide a guide for the work ahead. You or your mechanic need the claw wrench, a bearing press and puller, and a selection of drifts and punches. It is a bit time consuming but interesting to do. Do it right and you probably will not have to do it again for 100,000 more miles or so if you check adjustment on the wheel bearings from time to time. There are a lot of people here who have experiance with this and can help with questions. I found a wheel bearing that was very bad but I caught the problem in time. It would have been a very expensive project if that had come apart in there.

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