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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2704444
I have quite a bit of lifter noise on my 560kkms om601.
Took off the valve cover and checked all the hydraulic lifters and none seems to go down when hand pressed.

Apart from this simple test, could they still be bad and cause lifter noise?
 

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'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
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You're not going to find lifter noise that way.

2 things you can do.

1) Use a bottle of LiquiMoly valve lifter additive

OR

2) Drain the oil. Refill engine with generic NON-synthetic Dex3 ATF (leave filter in place for now) and let it idle for a good 20-30 minutes. Do not rev or drive the car. Then perform a standard engine oil service including filter replacement.

Step 1 takes time to take full effect, but is as easy as it gets. Step 2 gives more immediate results (if you have a lifter issue).

BTW, I do see some minor cam wear but nothing alarm for that type of mileage.

 

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Your mom
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View attachment 2704444 I have quite a bit of lifter noise on my 560kkms om601.
Took off the valve cover and checked all the hydraulic lifters and none seems to go down when hand pressed.

Apart from this simple test, could they still be bad and cause lifter noise?
At that mileage I would replace the lifters. It's pretty easy and cheap to DIY. Take a close look at the tips of the cam lobes for wear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
At that mileage I would replace the lifters. It's pretty easy and cheap to DIY. Take a close look at the tips of the cam lobes for wear.
I think I will order new lifters, I seen some videos of people refurbishing lifters: it is not worth the trouble, right?

When new lifters arrive, should I fill them with fresh oil before installing?
 

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'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
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Let new lifters sit in fresh engine oil at least 24hrs prior to install.
 

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'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
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Yes, just put them in a small tub and add enough oil until the lifters are covered.
 

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1989 W124 260E
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The right way to do it in the manuaslis to hold down the ball bearing with a small plastic toothpick so oil fills up the void in the bottom of hydraulic compensator .. Not so cheap over in Blighty NRA type are around £50 each ..Might be the cam itself worn or followers .
Gesture Font Line Office supplies Parallel
 

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1989 W124 260E
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Ray i was lucky , i was able to pick 7 up off ebay for less than £30 .They were brand new , I bought them off a guy that only replaced 5 out of his 12 , so now it is just the matter of purchaseing the remainder at an extortionate price i paid for the first 7 .Thats a job on hold for now ..Last year i did an engine oil change and filter . And at the same time i purchased a tin of Liqui Moly valve treatment ..So last week i poped that in . You know , its made a vast improvement and i can say its put off the replacement of the hydraulic compensators for now ...
 

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£ 11,25

$10.93 each

$11

$15

They're dirt cheap. No reason not to replace them. Just make sure your cam isn't worn down. On the om60x engines bad lifter damage the cam lobes.
 

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1995 E320 Cabriolet
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I'd pump them all submerged in oil just to be sure.
Need to be careful doing that, if you over-fill them, then the valve can hang open. Replaced the head on my OM603, and one lifter was pumped up too much for the hole it went into. Held an intake valve open, and so the engine ran terribly once I had it all together. Called the machine shop that had refreshed the head, sharp machinist pointed out this possibility. Removed the cam shaft and pushed as much oil out of all of the lifters as I could, so they were all flat. Cranked the engine for several minutes with no injectors and with the injection pump shut off valve tied in the off position, until I had good oil pressure showing on the gauge. Then when the engine started, I still had some noisy lifters for just a few minutes and then they all quieted down and the engine was smooth as silk.
 

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1) Use a bottle of LiquiMoly valve lifter additive

Nice tip! I'll have to remember that one, the only "cure in a bottle" that I knew worked was to switch to Mobil 1 synthetic oil. Of course that was back when M1 was still full synthetic and a really good oil.
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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Need to be careful doing that, if you over-fill them, then the valve can hang open. Replaced the head on my OM603, and one lifter was pumped up too much for the hole it went into. Held an intake valve open, and so the engine ran terribly once I had it all together. Called the machine shop that had refreshed the head, sharp machinist pointed out this possibility. Removed the cam shaft and pushed as much oil out of all of the lifters as I could, so they were all flat. Cranked the engine for several minutes with no injectors and with the injection pump shut off valve tied in the off position, until I had good oil pressure showing on the gauge. Then when the engine started, I still had some noisy lifters for just a few minutes and then they all quieted down and the engine was smooth as silk.
This actually turns out to be more controversial than I imagined. Everyone agrees that you're trying to get all the air out of them and so here's a couple of ways to do it without physically pumping. I might also add that if you do pump them up, you should rotate your engine for a few minutes to prime everything and that will set your valve clearances so what you described doesn't ever happen. Also, lifters appear to be oiled from the factory...this is NOT so...that's just a rust inhibitor. You should actually clean the lifters first in like mineral spirits.


This is backwoods genius:
 
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