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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
I am in the process of changing auto-transmission fluid of my 1995 E320. I searched the forum and found that I have to turn the TC in order to access the TC drain plug. But how do I turn the crankshaft? What size wrench do I need and where is the crankshaft located? Is there is an easier way?
All help will be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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The absolute *easiest* way is to use the starter. Twist the ignition key in quick jerks to incrementally rotate the crankshaft/torque converter. This is a little tough on the starter but nothing awful. You'll want a helper to either watch the converter or twist the key unless you want to go back and forth from under the car to twisting the ky a bunch of times. BTDT.
I'd use a socket and breaker bar on the harmonic balncer bolt at the front of the crankshaft. Can't remember the size. 24mm? Access is a little tight at the front of the engine from underneath but it's doable.
 

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I use a socket on the front bolt and a mirror strategically placed so I can see when the drain plug lines up. The front bolt is hard to get to. You need just the right extender on your socket wrench to wiggle in there and turn the engine.

Others turn the engine using a screwdriver on the flywheel by moving the teeth bit by bit until they see the drain plug.
 

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I use a screwdriver as a lever and just turn the converter until I see the plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks for all the response. I used the starter to turn the crankshaft. Thanks "augapfel",
with couple of try torque converter was accessible. The rest of the part was easy. Replaced the filter and rubber gasket, bought Transmission oil from local MB dealer. They are selling "Mobil ATF D/M" for 1995 E320.

I was disappointed not to get the MB brand. Any way, after checking their computer system, informed me this the stuff for my model.

I am relieved that the transmission oil change went smoothly. Initial test run is good so far. Will check for oil leak tomorrow. I was very scared not to over tight the transmission oil pan screws. I do have a torque wrench. Just did it with my normal wrench and my assumption.

Now I am stuck with differential oil change. That 14 hex bolt will just not move :( , will take it to a local mechanics.

Thanks every one for all the response. If any one have any question, feel free to ask. This is not difficult at all. Easy DIY. Mechanic was asking $130 only for labor :0)
 

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So, if the torque converter is drained as well as the case is ALL the tranny fluid changed? Want to make sure before I under/overfill. Thanks!
 

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Thanks for all the response. I used the starter to turn the crankshaft. Thanks "augapfel",
with couple of try torque converter was accessible. The rest of the part was easy. Replaced the filter and rubber gasket, bought Transmission oil from local MB dealer. They are selling "Mobil ATF D/M" for 1995 E320.

I was disappointed not to get the MB brand. Any way, after checking their computer system, informed me this the stuff for my model.

I am relieved that the transmission oil change went smoothly. Initial test run is good so far. Will check for oil leak tomorrow. I was very scared not to over tight the transmission oil pan screws. I do have a torque wrench. Just did it with my normal wrench and my assumption.

Now I am stuck with differential oil change. That 14 hex bolt will just not move :( , will take it to a local mechanics.

Thanks every one for all the response. If any one have any question, feel free to ask. This is not difficult at all. Easy DIY. Mechanic was asking $130 only for labor :0)
A quick bit of advice with the diff oil change (you may already know but I will post it for everyone anyway), there are 2 plugs (1 on side to fill and 1 underneath to drain). Take off the filling one first then take off the draining one! If you do it the opposite way around and for some reason the fill plug can't come off then you are stuck with an empty diff you can't fill, if the fill plug comes off but drain plug won't then you can still put the fill plug back on to seal it back up to drive car/take to get fixed or whatever.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So, if the torque converter is drained as well as the case is ALL the tranny fluid changed? Want to make sure before I under/overfill. Thanks!
First, fill about 4 quarter of ATF. Start engine, while engine idling, press brake and shift P to R to D and the rest of the trans position pausing for about 30 sec's in each gear allowing the ATF to move to different gear and then move back to P. Fill rest of the ATF.
I think it will take upto 6-7 quarter.
Important: Check ATF level when engine is idling (there is 2 marks hot and cold), I got this info from MB repair CD.
Thanks.
 

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Thanks ejaahm!
 

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Dont neglect to also change the gear oil on your final drive / rear diff. rule of thumb is change at same time as trans fluid. peace of mind.
 

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Trans. service

Good info. Im doing mine as soon as parts come in from autohausz, what do you think of a power flush for a tranny with 177k. Alvin
 

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No, but why would you want to change only HALF the fluid? I hope you realize the torque converter shares (mixes with) the same fluid as the rest of the transmisison.
 

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normal oil changes don't require draining TC. However - since Mercs are known for their durability, everybody neglects ATF changes so it is better to just drain it all...
 

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I had mine "serviced" at a shop, $176 to drain completely, replace filter and gasket, and refill with all new fluid. Then I drove it for a few days to circulate all the oil around. I got one of those compressed air-powered fluid extractors, and sucked all the trans oil out thru the dipstick, probably about half of the total amount in there. Replaced that with Royal Purple Max ATF full synthetic, it's supposed to be better for the trans and handles heat better since Summer's coming. So now about half of my trans fluid is synthetic. If I do that again then 75% will be synthetic? Then, if I did it one more time then would 87.5% of my fluid be synthetic? It's a math problem for an engineer. If it's really easy to drain the tork converter then maybe I'll just do that and replace all the fluid at once and call it good.
 

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When I changed my transmission fluid on my 420 last month, I used the bump method to find the plug. After about 22 bumps, my tumbler broke! I think it was the quick back and forth that broke it. I suggest not using this method, especially now that I'm familiar with the tumbler nightmare--20 more hours of work and frequent f-bombs!

I changed the fluid on my 300e today and I put a 1 1/8" socket on the crank and used a mirror as a guide to see the plug. It took 15 seconds. This is the best method in my opinion! Thanks for the suggestion previous poster!:bowdown:
 

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When I changed my transmission fluid on my 420 last month, I used the bump method to find the plug. After about 22 bumps, my tumbler broke! I think it was the quick back and forth that broke it. I suggest not using this method, especially now that I'm familiar with the tumbler nightmare--20 more hours of work and frequent f-bombs!

I changed the fluid on my 300e today and I put a 1 1/8" socket on the crank and used a mirror as a guide to see the plug. It took 15 seconds. This is the best method in my opinion! Thanks for the suggestion previous poster!:bowdown:
*Easiest: Just get a 7/8" wooden dowel rod (so you don't gouge and scratch the TC)...shape one end like a big slot screwdriver/pry bar, cut it about 12" over all length....move the torque converter until the plug is straight down. If you're ruthlessly vicious and break the dowel rod, fashion another from the leftover piece you initially bought and then punish yourself. :rolleyes:

Kevin
 

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I had mine "serviced" at a shop, $176 to drain completely, replace filter and gasket, and refill with all new fluid. Then I drove it for a few days to circulate all the oil around. I got one of those compressed air-powered fluid extractors, and sucked all the trans oil out thru the dipstick, probably about half of the total amount in there. Replaced that with Royal Purple Max ATF full synthetic, it's supposed to be better for the trans and handles heat better since Summer's coming. So now about half of my trans fluid is synthetic. If I do that again then 75% will be synthetic? Then, if I did it one more time then would 87.5% of my fluid be synthetic? It's a math problem for an engineer. If it's really easy to drain the tork converter then maybe I'll just do that and replace all the fluid at once and call it good.
LOL! This is some seriously funny shit, sammy! No, it's not a question for an engineer, just somebody good with rudimentary math.:D And you're doing nothing for the fluid in the TC, with your suction contraption.

Dude as much as you brought a smile to my face...just replace all the fluid at once (TC and tranny) with your Royal Purple or whatever!

Kevin
 
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