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04 odyssey (265k) 1995 E320 wagon (295k)
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Got bored, and read this thread...great one BTW.
Instead of 3m 33, has anyone used Scotch 70 Self-Fusing Silicone Rubber Electrical Tape. This would seem like an ideal application, requiring only cutting the outside sheath.
Just a thought.
 

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Diagram

I have never had a problem with one I rebuilt.


Also here is a diagram that some people look for but can never find. I made it awhile back, apologies for the crudeness.

Could you please repost the image of the diagram... It doesn't display for me... Also... is the diagram for the m104 the same as the one for the m119?
 

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1995 E320 wagon
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I've done it before and it works well - and much, much faster than new wires and soldering. I suspect the heat shrink tubing isn't as long lived as engine grade wire insulation but it's pretty good. The chances of it predeceasing the rest of the car are pretty small. I would never solder the butt joints though. I use NAPA uninsulated seemless butt joints, nice and small, with anti-oxidation paste, and stagger the joints so it doesn't look like a rat going through a snake. Adhesive lined HST over the joints is a nice touch, but 3M 33+ tape works well too.
What size heat shrink did you use? Did you scrape off all the old insulation? Did you take apart the ETA at all or just shove the heat shrink down into the holes? I am going to rebuild mine, and reinsulating the wires seems reasonable.

And thanks for sharing your input, it may save me a bit of time!
 

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1995 E320 wagon
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I'd like to thank you for the guide and add my rewire story in case it helps anyone. I was able to find all the needed parts at Advance Auto for about $30. I used:

RTV Red
1 spool of autocraft 14 gauge and 1 of 18 gauge wire
1/4 in heatshrink
loctite insulating and sealing wrap.

I had solder and the tools at home.

I have a 1995 E320 Wagon without ASR with around 220,000 miles. The wiring harness has been replaced, but the ETA remained original.

My symptoms came on very quickly, with no early warning. I noticed a high idle and the engine had a rev limit at exactly 1500 rpm. If I cleared the errors, it seemed I could drive a few trips before the ECU implemented the 1500 rpm limit.

Originally I had the following error codes:

Built in LED: 6
Pin 8: 8,45
Pin 14: 2,5,11

After clearing the codes and driving a few trips, the problem came back with the following codes:

built in LED: 17
pin 8: 42, 45
pin 14: none.

I pulled the ETA and replaced the wires as per the pdf. I used standard wire from Advance Auto, it was their autocraft brand. There was no temperature information on this wire, but it was 'automotive wire'. I took two pairs and firmly twisted them together and stuck them in a 115 C oven for 1 hr, no change in the insulation. I heated the wires up to 160 C on a hotplate, and the insulation softened, but did melt or cause the wires to fuse together, so I conclude the wire is suffice. I used both 14 and 18 gauge, but I am pretty sure you can do the entire job with 18 gauge only. The hole will fit 9x 18 gauge wires and 2x 14 gauge wires.

I removed all the wires at once, I find this easier than replacing one by one and it gave me a chance to cleanup the holes with a solder sucker. Make sure to map-out the pins before hand or lookup a diagram if you go this route.

For insulation of the soldered wires at the plug end, I used 1/4" heat shrink. I note this is too large, but all they had on hand. It did however, shrink enough, but I would recommend a smaller diameter. I could not reassemble the plug due to this, so I used a generous amount of the sealing wrap and some RTV. See the attached picture.

For wrapping the wires, I used the Loctite "insulating and sealing wrap". It is rated to 260 C and said to be fuel and acid resistant. This wrap uses no adhesive and is self-fusing.

For sealing the ends of the insulation where the wrap meets the plug and ETA, I used RTV Red. From my experience, that stuff is great and can withstand heat.

Time will tell how this holds up, but all my symptoms seem to be gone. Stable idle at 600 RPM and no rev limit.

Attached are pics of steps that may differ from PDF.
 

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Hi Guys,

Does anyone know if the M104 throttle body wiring is as shown here?

Credit goes to "kafklatsch"




I also found this image from a M119 (credit goes to "alchemy") :



Does anyone know if this is compatible on a 1994 E320? I have redone the wiring, but the ASR light is on and it is not possible to accelerate at all. My wiring was bad and some of it accidentally got cut.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.
 

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1995 E320 wagon
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Here is a diagram I checked it against the one I made for my NON-ASR throttle body, and it is the same. I found it on the forums somewhere, it may be the same source as your first diagram. So maybe the wiring is the same for both ASR and non-ASR?

I would double check all the connections one by one, especially the motor leads.

*edit* I have a 95 E320 without ASR
 

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The diagrams I posted are correct for the M104 throttle body as well. mcyberey also confirmed that the non asr and asr are wired the same
 

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1987 Mercedes-Benz 260E (SOLD) ;;; 1995 Mercedes-Benz E320
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I can't get the pdf to open!! It says damaged or unrepairable! Can anyone email me a working copy? [email protected]
Also, do my symptoms sounds like a TA? My cruise control cuts out sometimes, but works other. I'm having zero idle issues, and my acceleration seems as good as ever. My problem is that my car does not want to shift properly. We're talking it doesn't want to shift until 4-6,000 rpms, and it wants to randomly downshift and throw my rpms through the roof. Another member suggested I look into this, but I want to know if these seem like symptoms?
 

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1994 E320 Sedan
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If another member suggested the ETA based on those symptoms, I'd say that he thinks they are indicative of a possible ETA problem. EDIT: Especially if it was sbaert. He knows what he's talking about. In any case, if your ETA has not been replaced, and it has the crappy wiring in it (which an original 1995 ETA will), it's not a matter of IF it fails. It's a matter of WHEN. You're going to have trouble out of it and you might as well go ahead and get it over with.

The other engine compartment wiring is subject to the same problems. Have the wiring harnesses been replaced?

Also, replace your OVP. I can't swear that this will cure anything, but it can't hurt to try. The OVP is famous for causing all manner of nutty electrical faults.
 

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'94 c280 with r129 wheels, '88 300se
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mcyberey, hi I have the same circuit board as you! can I ask if you have the print out of the wiring from the circuit board to the connector b4 I put it in?i just rewired mine too. I thought the print out of the circuit board matches those on the connector but I think I might be wrong
thks
geoff
 

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1993 300CE Cabriolet (mine) ; 1994 E320 Wagon (wife's) ; 1990 Benz 300E 2.6 (son's)
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does your car have ASR ? there's two different throttle actuators on the M104.99x HFM-SFI engines, one for ASR (EA/CC/ICS) and the other for non-ASR (CC/ICS).
 
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