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'86 190E 3.0-16v,'91 190E 1.8 Euro sold,'95 E320 Wagon
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55 Posts
I think i have to look at my wires too.
My symptoms:
- no cruise control
- 2 days ago my wife could not start the car,then a few minutes later it finally started but it was running ruff,engine shacking,and no throttle response at all!Car was idling @ 400RPM and would not rev up.
A few hours later a went to pick up the car and it was running fine and still does.Absolutely no problems,but i don't want this to happen again.
What do you guys think is it the wiring or do i have to replace the whole thing?
 

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2013 E350 sedan, 2013 E350 cab, 1993 400E sold,1999 ML320
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2,429 Posts
Heard of people doing it but once opened longevity has been an issue. But worth a try as a new one is usually more than the car is worth these days.

Good Luck.
 

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Timeship, see you yesterday, but you already knew that.
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4,103 Posts
Heard of people doing it but once opened longevity has been an issue. But worth a try as a new one is usually more than the car is worth these days.

Good Luck.
I have never had a problem with one I rebuilt.


Also here is a diagram that some people look for but can never find. I made it awhile back, apologies for the crudeness.

 

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W124
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73 Posts
HELP.....

I just rewired my ETA (w124, m104)
i'm sure i rewired correctly...
Now I have a rough high idle, above 1.000 :(

any idea why ????
 

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Timeship, see you yesterday, but you already knew that.
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4,103 Posts
HELP.....

I just rewired my ETA (w124, m104)
i'm sure i rewired correctly...
Now I have a rough high idle, above 1.000 :(

any idea why ????
Codes?
 

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Timeship, see you yesterday, but you already knew that.
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4,103 Posts

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W124
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73 Posts
What are the codes from the check engine light you have?
check engine light? mine dont have any......I guess....

anyways my idle is back to normal again :)
+ CC working properly :)

i believe the idle control was broken because the eta wiring....

here's my idle control :



]

and this is my eta looks like....

[

 

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W124
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73 Posts
I have never had a problem with one I rebuilt.


Also here is a diagram that some people look for but can never find. I made it awhile back, apologies for the crudeness.

thanks very much for the diagram... :)
it helps me so much...:thumbsup:

but for the "circuit board (inside eta)"
number 11 and 4 should go opposite ...

11--------4 --> incorrect
4 --------11 --> correct

 

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Timeship, see you yesterday, but you already knew that.
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4,103 Posts
thanks very much for the diagram... :)
it helps me so much...:thumbsup:

but for the "circuit board (inside eta)"
number 11 and 4 should go opposite ...

11--------4 --> incorrect
4 --------11 --> correct

No you are TOTALLY right! I missed it myself, I did it based off of memory.

Sorry everyone, 11 and 4 are reversed.
 

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1994 E320 Sedan
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611 Posts
I have a silly question, but I guess I'll ask anyway.

If the wiring itself (not the insulation) is okay, and the solder joints are okay, is there any reason you couldn't simply put shrink wrap over the old wiring and solve the problem that way? Cut each wire in the middle, slip shrink wrap over the whole lot of them, solder each cut back together, and shrink wrap that.

I imagine there's a reason why people don't do this, but I'd love to hear thoughts on the idea.

EDIT: I meant to put shrink wrap over each individual wire, in case anyone misreads what I stated above.
 

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I have a silly question, but I guess I'll ask anyway.

If the wiring itself (not the insulation) is okay, and the solder joints are okay, is there any reason you couldn't simply put shrink wrap over the old wiring and solve the problem that way? Cut each wire in the middle, slip shrink wrap over the whole lot of them, solder each cut back together, and shrink wrap that.

I imagine there's a reason why people don't do this, but I'd love to hear thoughts on the idea.
I've done it before and it works well - and much, much faster than new wires and soldering. I suspect the heat shrink tubing isn't as long lived as engine grade wire insulation but it's pretty good. The chances of it predeceasing the rest of the car are pretty small. I would never solder the butt joints though. I use NAPA uninsulated seemless butt joints, nice and small, with anti-oxidation paste, and stagger the joints so it doesn't look like a rat going through a snake. Adhesive lined HST over the joints is a nice touch, but 3M 33+ tape works well too.
 

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W124
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I have a silly question, but I guess I'll ask anyway.

If the wiring itself (not the insulation) is okay, and the solder joints are okay, is there any reason you couldn't simply put shrink wrap over the old wiring and solve the problem that way? Cut each wire in the middle, slip shrink wrap over the whole lot of them, solder each cut back together, and shrink wrap that.

I imagine there's a reason why people don't do this, but I'd love to hear thoughts on the idea.

EDIT: I meant to put shrink wrap over each individual wire, in case anyone misreads what I stated above.
never thought about it....
that's really good idea :thumbsup:
 

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1994 E320 Sedan
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611 Posts
Well, I got the spare ETA apart last night. Not everything went perfectly, but the metal part of the wiring is all intact. In trying to get that stupid little horseshoe shaped thing out of there to extract the pigtail completely, I broke off that little sliver of metal between it and the pigtail. That metal is VERY thin. :(

Got the pin connector thing apart enough to get some shrink wrap into there. I bought a LOT of shrink wrap and a couple rolls of nice 3M +33 electrical tape. I held aside those plastic strings that are in the OE wiring - I might reuse them. I've got enough big heat shrink to go over the entire thing once I'm finished, too, so I think it'll be pretty water tight.

Certainly worth an experiment. If it goes poorly, I'll send the known-to-be-good ETA off to a professional to be done correctly.
 

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1994 C280
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40 Posts
Hello to all,

I recently re-wired my actuator (94 C280) and I checked it for shorts on the new wiring and everything seemed good. After reinstalling the ETA on the car, it still has a fluctuating idle (and stalls easily). I created a post on the W202 channel (http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w202-c-class/1618868-throttle-actuator-diagrams-pin-designation-2.html#post5173745) where i posted some values I got from measuring my actuator at the pins on its socket. Basically, if someone here can perform these same measurements and post them, this can help to determine if something besides the wiring is bad on the ETA, or if the ETA is in good condition and something else, like the ECU, is bad. I asked VDO for these values, but they didn't answer, so I guess we can measure and post the results for having some kind of reference values.

My actuator is an 000 141 65 25.

Thanks,

Bob
 

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I have never had a problem with one I rebuilt.


Also here is a diagram that some people look for but can never find. I made it awhile back, apologies for the crudeness.
Hello to all.

Do you have the throttle connection scheme(pinout) for 000 141 57 25 (VDO 408.226/4/1)

My car mercedes w124 e320 1995 M104.992
Send me please

Thank you!
 

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1993 300E 2.8
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329 Posts
Could someone please post the pinout diagram (from pcb to connector) for 000 141 57 25 (VDO 406.226/4/1) ? I accidentally cut a few wires. This ETA is from a M104 engine.

I found a pin diagram for M119 ETA but seems different than above.

Thanks in advance.
 
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