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I am real lucky at the moment, but now that I have seen your tear down i know that I am due. My engine wiring harness has been replaced and tuned up everything and my cruise control works but......... I am sure my wires look just that bad on my ETA.

Take you about a day to do it with ease? I know it only takes me about 5 min to get my maf off then its pretty close to get the ETA off.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
If you have everything together before you start you can definitely do it in a day. Most likely you will be able to do it in an afternoon. This one took about 6 hours to get it off, repaired and back on including stopping work to take pictures.

Maybe this should be in the DIY thread.
 

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Nice I just may have to do that this weekend. Hoping my luck holds out (crossing fingers on both hands and knocking on wood). Nothing like planning before failure. Its gonna bite me on the rear end I know it.
 

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Thanks for a great write up!

Cutting open the plug is the most difficult part of this process. I have rewired 4 of these, the first one I did as you have shown in your pictures. Once I had the first one opened up, it was possible to see how to remove the pin carrier. If you cut the connector as shown in these attached pictures, the pin carrier can be easily removed. Once the plug has been cut, you may have to use an Xacto knife to cut away two small tabs to release the pin carrier. You can then solder the new wires directly to the pins, snap the pins back into the carrier, reinstall the carrier into the plug, glue the plug back together, and finish it up nicely with a large piece of heat shrink. By the way, this is how Beckmann Technologies does this.

These pictures are from an actuator I was going to use on a 94 E320 cabrio. The deal fell through so this actuator is for sale if anyone is interested.

J. M. van Swaay
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
That is a much nicer way to do it. I must have fooled around cussing for an hour trying to get that thing apart. If I ever have to do it again, i will try this method.

Greg
 

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You have done a bunch but how do you keep track of which wire goes in which slot if you just cut through like that?
 

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You have done a bunch but how do you keep track of which wire goes in which slot if you just cut through like that?
There are numbers on the plug. He has a piece of tape wrapped around each wire with the number of the port that each wire goes into. If you look closely at the plug you'll see the numbers and then you'll see the tape he wrapped around each of the wires.

Excellent write up. Excellent source for the DIY thread.
 

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but are there numbers on the circut card for when you rerun the wires? If you dont know the layout to start and you just cut the plug off like in the pictures how do you rerun them.


I may have missed something but it didnt show that from what I saw.

I am going to do it this weekend but like any wiring jobs I just want to make sure I put it together right.

Just trying to ask the right questions.

I can imagine if hes done 14 he has it memorized or has it drawn out. Thanks so far for all the help btw.
 

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Before you cut the plug, you need to map the cicuit board wires (and motor wires) to the numbered plug pins. To do this desolder the wires at the circuit board end one at a time. Once the wire is desoldered, use an ohmeter to associate the circuit board wire position to a plug pin number. I have attached two pictures showing this step. (Sorry for not mentioning this earlier, I just kinda figured anyone contemplating this project would know to do this...)

If you have already cut the plug, I have the "wire map" for both ASR and non ASR throttle actuators. Let me know if you need it. (I would just post it, but it's just a bunch of hand written notes and sketches)

By the way, this rewire project will only fix an actuator that is bad due to a shorting harness. If the fault is a bad feedback potentiometer or a bad motor, rewiring won't fix it.

J. M. van Swaay
 

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I have not cut the plug, not even out of the car yet.

My question is did you map them out before cutting the plug because otherwise how do you know where each wire goes? And you did his post was with the plg cut and thats where I got lost. Like you said you have a map so for you it doesnt matter. I only plan doing this once. 2 benz's is all I can handle.

Lucky for me so far everything works, cruise and everything else and getting 22.5 mpg daily driving so cant be too much wrong. But since my wiring harness was bad and seeing his rebuilt 104 I was brought back to reality that I may want to do it before it dies on me and gets more costly.

thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
macdrone

If you're not experiencing any problems, I would leave it alone until it starts acting up and or throwing codes. Your first indication of trouble will be a loss of cruise control and the CEL will light up.

If you cut the plug like I did in the .pdf, you won't cut through the wires and can see where they all go, once you have them figured out, you could cut the other half off the plug and remove the pin carrier and then glue the whole thing back together and cover with heatshrink when you are done.

If you are careful, and proceed slowly with caution, you may be able to cut around the plug similar to the way J.M. van Sway does but without cutting through the wires. I believe that he didn't worry cutting the wires because he already has the pinout for both ASR and non ASR cars.

I just got another junkyard EA that has a broken pin and I intend to have a go with trying to cut the plug without cutting through the wires so I can replace the broken pin.

I believe that this approach will be the best as The wires will still be connected on both ends. I will post some pics when i get it done.

Greg
 

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nothing lol.

Well I am not throwing codes but is there a sticker or date stamp to see if mine has been replaced?

I dont want it shorting out like the engine harness did.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
nothing lol.

Well I am not throwing codes but is there a sticker or date stamp to see if mine has been replaced?

I dont want it shorting out like the engine harness did.
I didn't see any dates on mine. You can do a quick inspection of the insulation by pulling the crossover tube and air resonance valve. If you do this, you can easily access the big loop of EA harness between the engine harness and the EA body. Carefully cut a small slit, 2 -3" long, in the loop of cable sheathing to inspect the wires without pulling the EA. If you don't see any flaked or cracked insulation, seal the slit you made with tape and put everything back together. Given the age of the actuator, if you don't see any flaking or cracking, it has probably been replaced.

If you do see flaking, you needed to pull those parts anyway to get the EA out and continue with disassembly..

Greg
 
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