how to replace W210 shocks? any tips/links?
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Sometime within the past year there was an article in the MBCA Star magazine describing the process for replacing the front shocks on the W210. It included how to use the lug wrench in the MB tool kit to make a tool to remove the top nut on the shock absorber. Sorry I can't give you the precise issue but the magazines are in one place and I'm in another.
The Shocks Can be done as a DIY project.
Its VERY easy.....Fronts take about 10min a side..the rears take a little longer ..the trunk carpets must be removed to get to the rear upper shock nuts..
Even Faster with Air tools!
Its VERY easy.....Fronts take about 10min a side..the rears take a little longer ..the trunk carpets must be removed to get to the rear upper shock nuts..
Even Faster with Air tools!
The Job can be done with simple hand and socket tools
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Has anyone done springs as well? I am not worried about replacing the shocks as I am about to do my own, but I have Eibach springs to replace the OE springs and I think you have to remove the upper control arm. Spring compressor is a must, but I still wanna see a DIY on this.............and yes the 4matic is totally different setup from the regular E as the shock and spring are a single unit. May be easier to remove actually, but the overall front suspension seems trickier. Take a look at the MB braingears site for diagrams.
i actually saw DIY, with pics, in which an adventurous sort used two+ floor jacks
to remove the lower arm....w/o using spring compressor. i'll try to find this. it
required careful manipulation, natch, and it made me shiver a bit. but the guy
reported success...though extremely careful and calculated maneuvers.
update: hah....found it. add this experience to the list only for the daring. heh
heh...i'm tempted to try this if i cant easily find the proper spring compressor
to remove the lower arm....w/o using spring compressor. i'll try to find this. it
required careful manipulation, natch, and it made me shiver a bit. but the guy
reported success...though extremely careful and calculated maneuvers.
update: hah....found it. add this experience to the list only for the daring. heh
heh...i'm tempted to try this if i cant easily find the proper spring compressor
W210 shock replacement - photos
Grabbed a set of Bilstein HDs from board member who's wife wanted the plush ride
back. So after 2 weeks of use, he put them up for sale.
Had the day off from work so decided to take a look see. No hints...just exploratory.
But it was so straight forward a job that I just kept going...and snapping pictures.
Hope it will help someone.
Definite improvement in ride. Doesn't really feel harsher at all. My rear is guessing
that compression damping is about the same or barely firmer...but rebound damping
is definitely firmer. Body roll in turns definitely abated, noticeably so.
Grabbed a set of Bilstein HDs from board member who's wife wanted the plush ride
back. So after 2 weeks of use, he put them up for sale.
Had the day off from work so decided to take a look see. No hints...just exploratory.
But it was so straight forward a job that I just kept going...and snapping pictures.
Hope it will help someone.
Definite improvement in ride. Doesn't really feel harsher at all. My rear is guessing
that compression damping is about the same or barely firmer...but rebound damping
is definitely firmer. Body roll in turns definitely abated, noticeably so.
no way. a peek into the undercarriage of the 4matic is much scarier and will take
a bit more time given the need to navigate the power train nooks n crannies. the
shocks on the 4matic still in good shape so i won't find out for a while. if/when I
do, i'll append to the PDF.
a bit more time given the need to navigate the power train nooks n crannies. the
shocks on the 4matic still in good shape so i won't find out for a while. if/when I
do, i'll append to the PDF.
Just my 2 cents here; I wouldn't even think about changing springs without the proper compressor. I changed springs, pads and shocks on my '97 e420 and with the proper compressor it is still a little scary. (there is a lot of energy in a compressed automobile spring!) However it can be done at home successfully. remember to get an alignment afterwards - you'll thank yourself!
of course, miles on the clock give an idea...but in reality, it's the road undulationsProV1x said:
which put wear on the shocks. if you're happy with the ride and are not detecting
any leaks, just leave them be. you'll save $3-400 in the process.
but if you're dis-satisfied with the ride when pushed, the head bobbles when in
a fast turn and you hit a dip, when you feel the car roll (tips L/R) when in a flat
curve and you wish you could go faster....while that BMW passes you on the
inside like you were standing still....<smile>... then you may want to consider
shock replacement, or lowering.
just be clear that when you mess with the suspension, you may need to realign
and/or put in camber kit which allows you to calibrate your suspension to spec.
this could add several hundred more dollars to your bill....and often overlooked
by quick modders.
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Wow, thanks for the description! Having the shock and spring separate makes this much easier, my other brand car uses struts (shock built into spring) which are more expensive and not as easily exchangeable.
Do you know where to buy (online in US) Shock Absorber for my E240 1996, front? Thanks!
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