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Premium Member
1989 560sec 6.0L AMG & Renntech
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2,355 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I am having a devil of a time with removing water spots/water marks from the clear coat on various Merc's from the 1990 era... Any ideas?

Cheers,
Ricky
 

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73 Posts
IMO... possibly left over residues stuck to the coat.... or the car dries rapidly due to sun exposure while you are working. Sooo, I would:

1. Wash with a good car shampoo.
2. Dry thoroughly with a quality Chamois or a leaf blower
3. With lots of lubricating fluid, give the surface a clay treatment
4. Using a good polish, .... = polish the car :D
5. Apply a wax.

Done and I'd bet you wont see anymore deposits

If your water has a lot of minerals, use a micro filter...
 

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Premium Member
1989 560sec 6.0L AMG & Renntech
Joined
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2,355 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks much! It is not from my water (I think from the previous owner). I am very very anal about detailing my cars. I wash in the shade and detail in my shop. I will see how it turns out! Thanks again! :D

Ricky
 

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There are two categories of water mark (the so-called water spots)

1. Stage I Corrosion[: defined as a surface with light to moderate corrosion damage to the paint surface]

2. Stage II Corrosion[: definition when the dirt/corrosion deposits are no longer on the surface but have started to break down the molecular structure, leaving an etched or white haze on the surface( a concave circular mark ) after the stain has been removed, with moderate to serious paint damage]

Water ‘Spots’


If the surface can be rectified by chemical means then this is the answer; not abrasive polishing. Using the correct chemical cleaners will dissolve the contaminants rather than abrading the surface. With all cleaning products (especially solvents) always test a small inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material

After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer (s) have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a polymer and / or Carnauba wax protection be applied immediately

Water doesn’t leave marks or etch glass; it’s the minerals that it contains calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) and reactivity (heat acting as a catalyst) the spots are actually traces of minerals left on the surface. Alternatively they can be caused by industrial pollution (i.e. acid rain, bird excrement or industrial fallout)

Generally surface water-spots have no raised edges and are very shallow and so cannot be felt, they are very similar to micro-fine surface marring. They cannot be removed from the surface by washing but they can usually be removed with a slightly abrasive chemical paint cleaner
Progressively using the least abrasive product first-

1. Use a paint surface cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner or Duragloss 501)
2. Try to dissolve the alkaline-based, surface/etched mineral water deposits try one or more of the following;
a) Use a 2:1 or stronger solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid)
b) Try a 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)
c) Or equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.
3. Clean the effected surface with Klasse All-In-One or Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner
4. Use detailing clay to remove any `hard' surface granules
5. Use a machine polish (Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound) and a cutting (LC White, Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4- 5.0) to level the paint surface
6. For Ceramiclear or other hard clear coats substitute Menzerna for machine polish; Super Intensive Polish / Nano Polish (105FF) or Final Finish Polish (106FA)
7. Use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive polish / foam pad set-up
8. Menzerna Power Finish (PO203S) - (M) this is a one-step scratch remover polish is formulated for CeramiClear or other ‘Hard’ paints. It will remove 2500 grit, cut 3.0-gloss 3.5, is formulated as a quick way to polish out light flaws and amplify the paint’s gloss. Use a primed Orange (mid range, high density foam (60 PPI) medium abrasive cutting action LC CCS foam pad 1200 RPM
9. Wet-sand with 2000, 2500 or 3000 grit finishing paper

Due to the reactivity of the calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) be cognizant that there are no products that offer complete protection; however either of these products will offer resistance to water marks, just remember; they are a sacrificial polymer waxes- Finish Kare FK 1000P Synthetic wax or Collinite 476S Super Doublecoat
 

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Registered
'94 S500 Now breaking. PM me '97 S500. MkII Golf Gti, 1980 mini
Joined
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35 Posts
There are two categories of water mark (the so-called water spots)

1. Stage I Corrosion[: defined as a surface with light to moderate corrosion damage to the paint surface]

2. Stage II Corrosion[: definition when the dirt/corrosion deposits are no longer on the surface but have started to break down the molecular structure, leaving an etched or white haze on the surface( a concave circular mark ) after the stain has been removed, with moderate to serious paint damage]

Water ‘Spots’


If the surface can be rectified by chemical means then this is the answer; not abrasive polishing. Using the correct chemical cleaners will dissolve the contaminants rather than abrading the surface. With all cleaning products (especially solvents) always test a small inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material

After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer (s) have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a polymer and / or Carnauba wax protection be applied immediately

Water doesn’t leave marks or etch glass; it’s the minerals that it contains calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) and reactivity (heat acting as a catalyst) the spots are actually traces of minerals left on the surface. Alternatively they can be caused by industrial pollution (i.e. acid rain, bird excrement or industrial fallout)

Generally surface water-spots have no raised edges and are very shallow and so cannot be felt, they are very similar to micro-fine surface marring. They cannot be removed from the surface by washing but they can usually be removed with a slightly abrasive chemical paint cleaner
Progressively using the least abrasive product first-

1. Use a paint surface cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner or Duragloss 501)
2. Try to dissolve the alkaline-based, surface/etched mineral water deposits try one or more of the following;
a) Use a 2:1 or stronger solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid)
b) Try a 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)
c) Or equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.
3. Clean the effected surface with Klasse All-In-One or Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner
4. Use detailing clay to remove any `hard' surface granules
5. Use a machine polish (Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound) and a cutting (LC White, Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4- 5.0) to level the paint surface
6. For Ceramiclear or other hard clear coats substitute Menzerna for machine polish; Super Intensive Polish / Nano Polish (105FF) or Final Finish Polish (106FA)
7. Use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive polish / foam pad set-up
8. Menzerna Power Finish (PO203S) - (M) this is a one-step scratch remover polish is formulated for CeramiClear or other ‘Hard’ paints. It will remove 2500 grit, cut 3.0-gloss 3.5, is formulated as a quick way to polish out light flaws and amplify the paint’s gloss. Use a primed Orange (mid range, high density foam (60 PPI) medium abrasive cutting action LC CCS foam pad 1200 RPM
9. Wet-sand with 2000, 2500 or 3000 grit finishing paper

Due to the reactivity of the calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) be cognizant that there are no products that offer complete protection; however either of these products will offer resistance to water marks, just remember; they are a sacrificial polymer waxes- Finish Kare FK 1000P Synthetic wax or Collinite 476S Super Doublecoat

I was going to post something here, but the above covers it pretty comprehensively
 

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1990 300SE 4/5/13 Mileage - 52,780
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14 Posts
New to detailing. What finish does a 1990 300se have? Clearcoat/conventional?

Thanks.
 
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