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How to Remove/Repair/Replace a C Class Electrical Steering Lock (ESL) (Also applicable to W204, W207, W212) Part 1

51K views 13 replies 9 participants last post by  gordonMB  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi W204 enthusiasts,
I am normally lurking on the W220 Forum and only occasionally visit the W204 site as our 2008 C-Class has been pretty reliable.
I have just successfully replaced the Electrical Steering Lock (ESL) and needed several goes and some professional help as it is quite a tricky job.
Below are the results of my experiences as all W204 owners will go through this issue at some stage. I have repeated a couple of images posted elsewhere so that it is all in one place. Hope this helps someone.

How to Remove/Repair/Replace/Refurbish a C Class Electrical Steering Lock (ESL) (Also applicable to W204, W207, W212) Part 1
TIP: Don’t even consider trying to repair or replace the OEM ESL. They are an incredibly poor design for a M-B component. Replace with an ESL Emulator.
ESL Emulator Option
A better alternative to replacing the OEM ESL electrical motor is to replace the complete ESL with an emulator. An emulator is an electronic box which simulates the ESL and keeps the CAN Bus happy but does not lock the steering column, thus compromising the security of the vehicle. (Note later M-B’s no longer have a steering lock for security.) Most importantly, an emulator does not have an electrical motor to fail.

Emulators come in two different styles. A direct replacement for the OEM ESL and a “mini” version which doesn’t need access to the steering column, but which may be placed anywhere within reach of the OEM connector. Note the larger original style Emulator doesn’t need mounting on the steering column and may also be placed anywhere within reach of the connector.
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Important Note: Both styles need prior coding to match the vehicle’s EIS and key, but this may be done by any competent automotive locksmith. The author purchased a coded emulator for AUD375.

C Class Electrical Steering Lock (ESL)
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The ESL is used to lock the steering column as an anti-theft measure for the vehicle. When locked a tongue extends from the ESL and engages with grooves on the steering column thus preventing it from rotating. Image shows locked ESL with tongue extended or OUT.
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When the ignition key is inserted into the ignition switch (EIS) and if the key is recognised, the CAN Bus wakes up, activates the 15C system and unlocks the steering column via the ESL (N26/5) ecu. Image shows unlocked ESL with tongue retracted or IN.
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A loud motor noise and unlocking sound is also heard. The car may now be started and driven.

The ESL has inbuilt security features which make it difficult to replace or repair.

The ESL is coded to match the vehicle Electronic Ignition System (EIS) and Key. A replacement new or salvaged unit must be recoded to match the vehicle.

When the ESL is locked it activates a tongue which prevents the mounting bolt from being depressed in order to remove the ESL from the steering column.

Each time the ESL locks and unlocks the vehicle, counters record the number of times.

Important Note (MUST Read)
If the ESL is opened up and the mechanism not replaced in the same unlocked/locked state, the electronic counters will get out of step and the NEC integrated circuit will prevent the ESL from working. This creates a problem when opening an ESL in the locked state as it must be reassembled in the locked state and special steps taken to reinstall it on the steering column.

Issue
The C Class Electrical Steering Lock (ESL) commonly fails after eight to ten years use.

The symptoms are intermittent unlocking of the steering wheel or complete failure to do so, accompanied with none-starting engine, and an unusual instrument cluster display. Some electrical systems may continue to work but usually the car cannot be started, steered or taken out or Park which presents huge difficulties if the car needs to be moved for whatever reason.

Emergency Tip: How to Get Auto Trans Selector Lever Out of Park for Towing
Instructions are in your W204 C-Class Owner’s Manual but are repeated here for convenience.

It is relatively easy to get the Automatic Transmission Lever out of Park position by using the in-built release button.

QUOTE: In the event of an electrical fault, it is possible to release the selector lever lock manually to move it out of position P, e.g. if you wish to tow the vehicle away. END QUOTE
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Once the leather cover is pushed to the left and removed upwards (both LHD and RHD vehicles) it looks like this.
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Then depress the YELLOW release button and move the Selector Lever out of Park as normal, ie to the right and down.
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Leave the Selector Lever in Neutral. (NB If the Transmission Selector Lever is returned to Park it will lock again and the process will need to be repeated.)
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The vehicle can now be moved even if the steering wheel is in the locked position. If the wheels are at a large angle from straight ahead ask the Tow Truck Operator to use dolly wheels under the front wheels. A small deviation from straight ahead can be coped with by nudging the vehicle as it is being winched on to the truck.

Common ESL Failure Mechanism
The main reason for ESL failure is worn brushes on the ESL worm drive electrical motor.
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Fortunately, original and after-market replacements can be easily sourced.
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An OEM 2008 C220 CDI ESL motor has markings
1020333
3H3818

TO BE CONTINUED as Part 2
 
#2 · (Edited)
How to Remove/Repair/Replace a C Class Electrical Steering Lock (ESL) (Also applicable to W204, W207, W212) Part 2

2681991


Tip
When the car starts to unlock the steering column intermittently (after about eight to ten years of use), it is a good idea to replace the ESL electrical worm drive motor before it fails completely as it is much easier to do with the ESL in the unlocked state. A good preventative strategy would be to do this every eight years.

Location of the ESL
The ESL is mounted on top of the steering column behind the instrument cluster and above the brake pedal.
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Determine the As-Found State of the ESL
Reread the Important Note (MUST Read) section above.

It is important to know the as-found state of the ESL before attempting removal or repair. The ESL must be reinstalled in the as-found state before reconnecting the battery. Permanent damage may be caused if the procedures are not followed exactly. YouTubers call this frying the NEC chip, but what they mean is that if the ESL counters get out of step, the NEC chip prevents the ESL and EIS from working properly. (An experienced programmer using special tools can remove the NEC chip, recode it and reinstall it in the ESL in the unlocked state.)

An ESL may be unlocked or locked before being removed from the steering column.

It is possible to remove an UNLOCKED ESL from the column in situ, however it is much easier if the steering column is removed from the vehicle with the ESL attached.

It is NOT possible to remove a LOCKED ESL from a steering column in situ and the column must be removed.

If the ESL Can NOT Be Unlocked
If the ESL will not unlock the steering column, attempt to get the ESL to unlock one last time by tapping the area around the ESL (remove under-dash panel and tap steering column above brake pedal) with a rubber mallet with the key inserted in the ignition. Also try removing and inserting the key while tapping. If you are lucky, the vibration may cause the motor to spin and unlock the ESL. If this happens immediately and without withdrawing the key, remove the battery and use the Unlocked ESL Removal Method.

Unlocked ESL Removal Method
The Internet has plenty of videos and suggestions for how to remove the ESL. The technique typically requires you to;

  • Insert key in ignition.
  • Lower the steering wheel and move fully out.
  • Leave the key in ignition.
  • Disconnect battery.
  • Leave the key in ignition.
  • Remove under dash panel.
  • Remove instrument cluster.
  • Remove steering wheel air bag.
  • Remove steering wheel.
  • Remove turn indicator control assembly.
  • Remove leather bag.
TIP: Mark the steering column to show when the front wheels are in the straight-ahead position. For an initially locked ESL, do this step after the ESL has been placed in the unlocked state.
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  • If the steering column has electrical adjustment motors it must be removed from under the dash which requires removal of the accelerator pedal. Manually adjustable steering columns may be withdrawn through the dash opening.
  • Remove steering column.
  • TIP: Mark the Steering Universal Joint to show when the front wheels are in the straight-ahead position.
  • TIP: Identify the wide key in the Steering Universal Joint and mark on upper most face and around the side.
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  • Remove ESL.
Reinstall in reverse order. TIP: The hardest part of this job was to re-engage the steering column spline in the steering universal joint. The spline is keyed so that it only fits one way. Before re-installation remove any burrs and clean and grease the spline and UJ socket. (Spark plug anti-seize grease is perfect.) It also helps to loosely mount the steering column in place before engaging the spline. Align the wide key on the spline with the marked universal joint. When the spline is correctly aligned it just slides together without any extra force needed. After connecting the spline tighten the right-hand bolts first.

Locked ESL Removal Methods
If the ESL will not unlock the steering column there are two methods which may be used to remove the ESL from the column. Both require the steering column to be removed from the car.

Method A: The ESL mounting bolt may be drilled out or down enough so that the ESL can be removed from steering column. Use a 3mm drill followed by an 8mm drill. The bolt is then replaced with a new one.
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Method B: Drill a 3mm access hole through the case until you can see the teeth on the gear. (Proceed very carefully so that the plastic gear wheel is not damaged and remove any swarf as it forms with a vacuum cleaner.) (TIP: It is a good idea to coat the area to be drilled with a blob of grease to help catch the swarf.)
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The gear wheel can then be rotated (clockwise as viewed through the hole) to the unlocked state. (Needs about thirty teeth movements.)
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The mounting bolt can now be depressed, and the ESL removed from the column.

The access hole may be plugged with silicon to prevent ingress of dust etc.

TO BE CONTINUED as Part 3
 
#3 ·
How to Remove/Repair/Replace a C Class Electrical Steering Lock (ESL) (Also applicable to W204, W207, W212) Part 3

Important Note for Reinstalling an As-found Locked ESL
Note the mechanism must be returned to the locked state after replacing the electrical worm drive motor to avoid upsetting the ESL lock/unlock counters. Before remounting the repaired ESL on the steering column, it can be placed in the unlocked state as per the method described in the testing section below.

Another suggestion for remounting a locked ESL was to remove the tongue which prevents the bolt from being depressed, but this compromises the security of the vehicle.

Dismantling the ESL
The fastening pins may be removed with a special tool or drilled out (3mm drill). (TIP: coat each pin with grease before drilling to catch the swarf.)

Replacing the ESL Worm Drive Motor
Note the correct position and orientation of the motor spacer.
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Orientation of the ESL Parts
After reassembly and before fastening the case in position, it is important to check the correct operation of the ESL. It is very easy to get the installation of the parts wrong.

The action of the switches is not straight forward.
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Switch 1 (Closest to edge of case) only transitions through the out position (ie In – Out – In) each time the ESL is locked or unlocked. Switch 2 changes state completely each time the ESL is locked or unlocked.
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Unlocked State
Manually turn the gear wheel to the unlocked state. Inspect the ESL with the circuit board removed and ensure that it matches the dimensions shown.
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Install the circuit board and check the state of the switches in the unlocked state. (TIP: It helps to depress the switches when inserting the circuit board.)
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Locked ESL
Manually turn the gear wheel to the locked state. Inspect the ESL with the circuit board removed and ensure that it matches the dimensions shown.
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Install the circuit board and check the state of the switches in the locked state. (TIP: It helps to depress the switches when inserting the circuit board.)
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Manually return the ESL to the required unlocked/locked state prior to testing.

Testing and Initial Switch-on
It is a good idea to test the repaired ESL before installing on the steering column.

An as-found locked ESL may be changed to an unlocked ESL during this testing phase.

Special attention is required for the initial switch-on after repairing an ESL, as it is very sensitive to the sequence of unlock/lock commands.

For testing, temporarily hold case together with a clamp or tape.

Testing an As-found Unlocked ESL
  • Ensure the key is in the ignition. (No need to turn to on.)
  • Connect the battery.
  • Check the ESL to be tested is in the unlocked state by observing that the locking tongue is retracted.
  • Connect the unlocked ESL. (May be left supported in the foot-well by its cable.)
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  • Remove key from ignition. Hear ESL motor action and ESL locking tongue will extend. (Steering locked position.)
  • Reinsert key. Hear ESL motor action and ESL locking tongue will retract. (Steering unlocked position.)
  • Leave key in ignition.
  • Disconnect battery noting that ESL is now in unlocked state.
  • Leave key in ignition.
  • Complete fastening of ESL.

Testing an As-found Locked ESL (And Changing State from Locked to Unlocked)
  • Ensure the key is NOT in the ignition.
  • Connect the battery.
  • Check the ESL to be tested is in the locked state by observing that the locking tongue is extended.
  • Connect locked ESL (May be left supported in the foot-well by its cable.)
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  • Insert the key into ignition. Hear ESL motor action and ESL locking tongue will retract. (Steering unlocked position.)
  • Remove key. Hear ESL motor action and ESL locking tongue will extend. (Steering locked position.)
  • Reinsert the key into ignition. Hear ESL motor action and ESL locking tongue will retract. (Steering unlocked position.)
  • Leave key in ignition.
  • Disconnect battery noting that ESL is now in unlocked state.
  • Leave key in ignition.
  • Complete fastening of ESL.

Fastening the Case
Drill holes to suit fastening method.

3.2 x 3.2mm closed style pop rivets will secure the case.

2682009
 
#10 ·
I have just got a Kompressor c180 and I drove it for a test up the street and the next time I hopped in it wouldn’t even go . After alot of $&@$$& I ordered the ESL emulator. Now what? I didn’t even want it after the first drive as I’m an FPV kinda person and I thought it had zero balls, but now I’m just a dick with a car that don’t go please help
 
#5 ·
Once the emulator is coded to your vehicle it is plug and play.
To code the emulator a specialist needs the ignition switch (EIS) and at least one working key.
I found a specialist who lives in my area on eBay. He was a professional automotive locksmith and gave me a life time warranty. It took over an hour to read my EIS and keys and to code the new emulator.
 
#8 ·
Hello Ricebubbles! Greetings and huge thanks from the UK for your excellent guide to this tricky repair. This fault developed four days ago with my C220 and I self diagnosed. (the ESL had remained unlocked with the key out - yes, other faults could be responsible but given the numer of ESL motor sellers on Ebay/Amazon this has to be a common failure right?) looking down the barrel of a £1200 main dealer repair, I called upon my inner 18 year old motor cycle mechanic and got to work.

Your guide worked to perfection and the old girl (well 2012 anyway) is back on the road in great shape.

A few learnings for those contemplating this fix:

This is a three hours job for a specialist MB mechanic. For us mortals allow two days - learning on the job, consulting YouTube, plenty of breaks, no pressure etc. Quicker than that is a bonus.

There is a third state of failure - partially unlocked. Probably the most frustrating as the steering colunm is unlocked but when you try to remove the ESL, the bolt travels back as far as the surface of the mounting. Needs another three mm of travel to free it but just not having it. Your plans to pop the ESL out have just disappeared - stop pushing, it won't go in any further! Steering wheel off, steering column out and drill the bejazers out of the little beggar.

Steering wheel removal. Take all the circuitry out. Be super careful if you are using heat on that centre screw. When the wet cardboard protecting the plastic sockets started to char, I gave up and resorted to grunt. Air powered impact driver couldn't do it but probably helped. Breaker bar with steering wheel locked with padded 2x4 did the business.

Despite my "partial unlocked" state I followed the process for "unlocked" and everything worked out exactly as per your instructions.

Ensure that the clamp bolt at the steering rack end of the steering column is removed. I released it but left it in and pulled the universal joint coupling off it's shaft. It added about another 2 hours to the reassembly process!

There is a little black spacer that locks the yellow plug at the rear of the clock assembly. Don't forget it!

There is no sweeter sound than that lock going through the cycles and the engine firing up. Thanks very much RB for taking the time to help us out with this amazing, clear and accurate guide.

All the best

Norfolkandchance.
 
This post has been deleted
#12 ·
Hello everyone
I'm in similar position.
Lock failed in open position.
For now I can drive car just fine but I'm on new job from next week and car is essential.
I looked around and here in Ireland cost of emulator installation is 400 euros which I'm not in position to spend at the moment.
I can remote whole lock and repair it but not this weekend.

My question is - can I just remove electric motor from lock assembly?
Could leaving it out cause some errors on car computer?
Or even lock it from starting?
Regards
Tom
 
#14 ·
I was quoted $5000 to reprogram and replace the ignition and ESL. About the value of my car. I paid $375 for the emulator built into the ignition switch at speedofix.com. Repair shop did not like me doing this and never suggested this option.

I did manage to boggle up the pinch u-joint splines (before I knew about the keying) and now have to replace the mid shaft going through fire wall. Found no repair shop will take this on (liability) due to emulator nor, will anyone help guide me with the mid shaft replacement. The new dealer shaft, ordered for the VIN of the car 2012 gkl360 base, now does not have the flat areas for the key assembly. I hope it fits without changing out the steering column assembly. Will update once I get going on this.