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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Everyone. Excellent Forum and I really enjoy your technical articles.
I have a 1998 Mercedes E320 Wagon, 2 wheel drive with a V6 Engine. The lower oil pan leaks. So I took out 12 pan bolts, removed 2 clamp bolts and one very long bolt that is attached to the alternator. The pan has a pry lip on the drivers side. I tried a small pry bar there but it pops out. I even tried a larger pry bar on the drain plug (carefully). The pan will not budge. Something must be holding it but I cannot see any other bolts. In theory it should pull off. That is not happening.
Any help you can offer will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
 

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Hello Everyone. Excellent Forum and I really enjoy your technical articles.
I have a 1998 Mercedes E320 Wagon, 2 wheel drive with a V6 Engine. The lower oil pan leaks. So I took out 12 pan bolts, removed 2 clamp bolts and one very long bolt that is attached to the alternator. The pan has a pry lip on the drivers side. I tried a small pry bar there but it pops out. I even tried a larger pry bar on the drain plug (carefully). The pan will not budge. Something must be holding it but I cannot see any other bolts. In theory it should pull off. That is not happening.
Any help you can offer will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Where does it leak? At the joint between upper and lower pans? Pictures?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The pan leaks by the alternator. I think I just need to use more force to remove the pan. I am told that the pan is quite strong, about 3/16 aluminum alloy. I have seen photos of a mechanic firmly tapping the corner to break the silicone sealant bond. So I will try using a 2x2 piece of wood and a 4 pound hammer. I think if I rest the wood near a corner and distribute the force sideways, that is try to get the pan to move sideways, i can break the bond and the pan will drop down. I will support the pan underneath so it cannot fall. Again I am told that the pan will ring differently when the silicone starts to break. Later today I will give it a try.
I have seen photos of the pan and just 12 bolts hold it in place. On my car 2 extra bolts hold clamps for steel lines. Brake lines maybe? The long bolt I found was an alternator mount bolt and does not effect the lower oil pan.
Thanks.
Hope this helps someone else.
I will post back if I have problems.
Tim
 

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Hope this helps someone else.
I will post back if I have problems.
Tim
Tim, please post back with what worked to remove it. I have a leak that appears to be from the lower oil pan gasket and I'd like to know how hard it is to remove the pan.

Thanks,
Fred
 

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I did this job on my M113 in my W463 which should be very similar to the M112, I do remember that the lower pan was stuck on the the bottom of the upper pan. I used a wooden drift to split open the gap between both pans. Use the correct pan sealing material, the orange stuff from Mercedes if I remember dries up like glue which is why its hard to separate the pans. The orange correct pan sealing adhesive is sorta expensive at like 25 dollars but worth it.


On a side note its a good time to get some internal engine cleaner and run it before dropping the pan, once you have the pan off you can clean up any deposits on the inside of the bottom of the engine if you are that tedious.
 

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Got the pan off!

Thanks to everyone who helped with this thread. I got the pan off. I used a 3 pound sledge and a 1/4 piece of wood. The first time I whacked the pan it rang solid. The second time it rang dull and the third time I just tapped it and it fell off. How hard did I hit it? If I was using the same hammer to drive a 2 inch nail into a 2 x 4, I would have just set the nail in 1/2 inch. I did not have to hit it hard. It appears that the shock the hammer delivered is what broke the bond or seal.

For future hammer users - use a piece of wood and place it on the drivers side of the oil pan below the pry lip where there is a flat spot. That flat spot has a large internal rib on the inside of the pan so I suspect that is where Mercedes designed the pan to be hit. A rubber coated mechanics hammer is the best tool for one should never hit aluminum with a steel faced hammer. It can easily crack.

The pan had a black, rubber like sealant on it. I used the genuine Mercedes stuff which is a clear silicone in a caulking gun tube. It had a replaceable tip and fit into my Stanley caulking gun. I laid down two 1/8 inch beads and circled the holes for bolts. Someone said not to smooth it so I left it just as a bead. I cleaned the surfaces first with a razor, then fine steel wool taking care not to leave any shards in the engine, then WD-40 and finally rubbing alcohol. I carefully put the pan in place and hand tightened the 12 bolts until the silicone started to ooze out. I waited an hour and tightened them again. Tomorrow I will fill the engine with fresh oil and check for leaks. I will also keep an eye open for leaks around the oil level sender. Good point!

Here is a link to Pelican Parts and a good article that I found useful.
Mercedes-Benz W211 Oil Pan Gasket Replacement (2003-2009) E320 | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article
It is for a W211 and I have a W210 but the pans are identical. The W210 has only two clamps for lines; one on either side of the pan.

Again thanks to everyone. I love my Mercedes but cannot afford profession maintenance. It is the best road car I have ever owned. Picked it up at a local Salvation Army for $2,500.00 Had 137,000 miles on it. I think I finally fixed all that was wrong with it.
Hope this helps others.:smile
 

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Discussion Starter #9
How to install a new oil level sensor?

The oil pan is tight but my oil level sensor is giving erroneous readings and leaks. Does anyone have any tips for installing a new one?

I kept getting red "Oil below minimum level" messages on my dash. Thought I had a massive leak because I just filled the engine with fresh oil 15 miles ago! I stopped and checked the oil level. It was fine but I am leaking about a 1/2 quart over the course of the day.

I know I have to drain the oil. Not sure if I should use silicone or something else on the o ring seal. Any tips will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Tim
 

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Remove oil pan.
Disconnect connector, remove oil level sensor.
Make sure hole through upper oil pan does not have sharp burr that may shave new o-ring.
Lube o-ring with fresh oil and bolt in place. 10 Nm.
Apply sealant to lower oil pan. Tighten all bolts by hand then torque to 10 Nm. No waiting time.
 

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Using a rubber mallet or else to tap against the lower oil pan obviously works (and has worked in this case) to break it loose. But there is another way. On the driver side, there are two cast "noses" for this purpose, one on the lower oil pan (see attached picture) and the other one on the upper oil pan. With the fasteners loosened, one can place a large screwdriver between them and then pry the pan off.
 

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