[HGL1668]

First, I want to thank you all who has contributed to the all these DIYs as they really saved me mega money. Well, in a sense I saved a lot but spent a lot too because of this forum (if you know what I mean).

I just got my 2000 E320 a month ago and I have already done all the following:

Car currently at 146,xxx miles.

1. Oil Change ......................................................................... $85.xx (Dealership)
2. Engine Mounts .................................................................... $126.38 (DIY)
3. Transmission Oil / Filter Change, Flush: ...............................................(DIY)
Transmission Filter Kit .......................................................... $15.75
Transmission Filler Tube; Filler Cap ......................................... $2.71
Transmission Filler Tube; Lock Pin for Filler Cap; Red Plastic ........ $0.93
Transmission Dip Stick Tool .................................................. $55.05
Transmission Fluid 14 Liter Bottles .......................................... $219.52
Removal of a striped Torx bolt on pan ..................................... $40.00 (Inde shop)
4. Transmission Mount ............................................................. $17.39 (DIY)
5. Spark Plugs (Bosch7422 Platinum) x12 ..................................... $49.80 (DIY)
17mm Boot Tool (Ebay) ........................................................ $24.xx
6. Air Filter;1120940104 ........................................................... $13.39 (DIY)
7. Cabin Air Filter/Pollen Filter .................................................... $16.36 (DIY)
8. Oxygen Sensors; Bosch Universal x4 ......................................... $304.36 (DIY)
Oxygen Sensor Tool ............................................................. $10.xx
Two new pre-cat nuts for O2 sensors due to inexperience .......... $100.00
9. Two Magnaflow Catalytic Converters welded front ..................... $250.00 (Muffler Shop)
10. Driver side fog light bulb ...................................................... $3.78 (DIY)
Harness repair kit ............................................................... $34.04
11. 65w H7 headlight bulbs with H9 burners .................................. $47.xx (DIY)
Replaced 2 H6W city bulbs .................................................... $5.68
12. Random light bulbs behind clusters and CC .............................. $20.00 (DIY)
OE Cluster Removal Hooks .................................................... $25.xx
OE Radio Removal Keys ........................................................ $11.xx
13. Revive 90% of the clock pixels .............................................. $FREE (DIY)

Tada!! A grand Total of roughly $1477.46.

To be honest, that was to my surprise that I thought I did the math wrong. I cannot believe my eyes that I spent 1500 on the car in maintenance. I know, I could have save another 200 if I had not replace my working condition 55w OE bulbs and had not be such a newbie and stripped bolts and threads. Well, that is still 1300 dollar on maintenance on a car I got for around 6k out the door.

Before all the stuff I have done, the car drives fine, rating 7/10 IMO. Now, I think the car drives 8.5/10. One reason I did the O2 sensors, mounts, and tranny flush is because I want to fix the vibration problem at idle, before stop and before accel. The problem has dramatically diminished but I can still feel that settle shake right before complete stop and right after let go brake. I know many W210 owners have this problem but from what I have read, there could be many reasons to it. I just cannot yet eliminate all the vibration.

To continue my quest to find the problem, I have already ordered a fuel filter $35.00. If that does not work, I will do the following in this order:

1. MAF Sensor $166.xx
2. Brakes Pads $65, Rotors $220, Alignment $80, Miscellaneous tools and stuff $100
3. Front End Suspension Bushings.

Things I want to do:

1. Radiator Cool Fluid Change
2. OEM Shocks and Springs
3. Charcoal Filters

Here are my questions:

Should I continue to look for the problem since I have gone so far? Or....

Should I stop and just drive it the way it is before I go too far which might not be worth it?

Or what do you think? Am I over reacting?

I bet some of you might once have the some thought about where you should draw the line. This stuff is fun but it is getting a little out of hand, don't you think?. Please share some of your maintenance experience as I just want to see if the money and hard work I dumped into this car is worth it.

FYI, I am planning on keeping the car for maybe two years.

Thanks
Hugo

PS: the title is a little misleading as I initially wanted to know what I can do next for better MPG, but ended up venting on what I have spent on the car. Well, if you may, please info me too on better MPG. I started off at ~21mpg highway going 80mph, and now I can do 25.5mpg going around 75-80mph.

 

[Kajtek1]

1 sell it
2 buy a diesel
3 enjoy 30-40mpg.
4 next time ask questions before buying

 

[HGL1668]

^^ Thanks a lot, that makes me feel much better.

 

[Check Codes]

The problem has dramatically diminished but I can still feel that settle shake right before complete stop and right after let go brake.

That statement suggests to me that you might take the time to check all of your spark plug wires. I had a very subtle miss that turned out to be a bad plug wire and from your description that is a possibility. Pull them one at a time and check them for resistance, nominal should be around 22KOhm, replace any that are above 25. You can buy them individually if you want both online and at the dealer, which is what I'd recommend since they're pretty expensive.

If you're keeping the car two years, ignore the shocks (unless they are really bad or leaking) and particularly the springs.

 

[HGL1668]

That statement suggests to me that you might take the time to check all of your spark plug wires. I had a very subtle miss that turned out to be a bad plug wire and from your description that is a possibility. Pull them one at a time and check them for resistance, nominal should be around 22KOhm, replace any that are above 25. You can buy them individually if you want both online and at the dealer, which is what I'd recommend since they're pretty expensive.

If you're keeping the car two years, ignore the shocks (unless they are really bad or leaking) and particularly the springs.

That was last thing I want to do, to pull the plug wires and put back. I almost gave up when I had such a hard time putting those wires back in, even with the tool. I will give it a try.

 

[Musikmann]

The best I have seen on largely uninterrupted 75-80 highway driving is 26 mpg. But the one I use has hills so I'm sure I could do a little better on a totally flat interstate. Others with gasoline engines have done somewhat better.

I think you have already done (with the possible exception of an MAF) what you can do to maximize MPG. Spark plugs, air filter, and oxygen sensors are the biggies.

 

[Check Codes]

That was last thing I want to do, to pull the plug wires and put back. I almost gave up when I had such a hard time putting those wires back in, even with the tool. I will give it a try.

Oh, and be sure you maintain "polarity", a to a and b to b for each cylinder, or you'll have other issues.

 

[j99xj]

I could buy a hell of a lot of gas for $1477. But thats just me...

 

[mbvis]

I actually did the followings to get better MPG for only $10.
1. Inflate tires to proper pressure.
2. Add 1 quart of Slick 50 in place of 1 quart of oil ($10).
3. Remove the back seat. Get rid of junk from the trunk. Go on a diet. Less weight, more MPG.
4. Use credit cards that pay 2-5% cash back on gas purchase.
5. Fill up at cheaper gas stations.

 

[mbnz230]

dont fix it till it breaks.

 

[HGL1668]

I actually did the followings to get better MPG for only $10.
1. Inflate tires to proper pressure.
2. Add 1 quart of Slick 50 in place of 1 quart of oil ($10).
3. Remove the back seat. Get rid of junk from the trunk. Go on a diet. Less weight, more MPG.
4. Use credit cards that pay 2-5% cash back on gas purchase.
5. Fill up at cheaper gas stations.

Thanks, actually, I just got better MPG by joining Geico.

 

[tmandel]

I get incredible mpg when I stay home.

 

[500s]

I agree, don't fix it until it breaks. Also , true : For $1500 you can buy little over 500 gallons of gas. If you only do 20 miles to a gallon with this car wich is bad, you would still drive it for about 10,000 miles with that much gas.

 

[C_R]

I actually did the followings to get better MPG for only $10.
1. Inflate tires to proper pressure.
2. Add 1 quart of Slick 50 in place of 1 quart of oil ($10).
3. Remove the back seat. Get rid of junk from the trunk. Go on a diet. Less weight, more MPG.
4. Use credit cards that pay 2-5% cash back on gas purchase.
5. Fill up at cheaper gas stations.

THAT is a big NO NO!!!!

 

[mbvis]

THAT is a big NO NO!!!!

LOL. Don't be skeptical with Slick 50 to trust only synthetic. I used conventional 10W40 on my new MB after the first oil change. After 10 years, it runs fine. Near 100K miles, I put Slick 50 in V8's (Ford and MB). With one fill-up, either car could do LA to Sacramento non stop (~400 miles) and more.

 

[fosmith]

Assuming you don't know the service history of the car, it's probably a good idea to do all the service that you are doing given the high mileage. It could pay off by extending the car's life for years. So, you've invested $7500 in a fine luxury car that cost $50K ten years ago and will now likely give you many years of driving pleasure. Not bad, IMO.

I would also suggest getting the brake fluid flushed and changing the diff oil. I wouldn't waste time and money changing springs unless you want to lower the ride or one is broken. A set of Bilstein HD shocks will improve the handling and might be worth doing. 25.5 mpg on the freeway seems a bit low as I have gotten 27 with my E430 V8 but maybe your driving style accounts for that.
Fred

First, I want to thank you all who has contributed to the all these DIYs as they really saved me mega money. Well, in a sense I saved a lot but spent a lot too because of this forum (if you know what I mean).

I just got my 2000 E320 a month ago and I have already done all the following:

Car currently at 146,xxx miles.

1. Oil Change ......................................................................... $85.xx (Dealership)
2. Engine Mounts .................................................................... $126.38 (DIY)
3. Transmission Oil / Filter Change, Flush: ...............................................(DIY)
Transmission Filter Kit .......................................................... $15.75
Transmission Filler Tube; Filler Cap ......................................... $2.71
Transmission Filler Tube; Lock Pin for Filler Cap; Red Plastic ........ $0.93
Transmission Dip Stick Tool .................................................. $55.05
Transmission Fluid 14 Liter Bottles .......................................... $219.52
Removal of a striped Torx bolt on pan ..................................... $40.00 (Inde shop)
4. Transmission Mount ............................................................. $17.39 (DIY)
5. Spark Plugs (Bosch7422 Platinum) x12 ..................................... $49.80 (DIY)
17mm Boot Tool (Ebay) ........................................................ $24.xx
6. Air Filter;1120940104 ........................................................... $13.39 (DIY)
7. Cabin Air Filter/Pollen Filter .................................................... $16.36 (DIY)
8. Oxygen Sensors; Bosch Universal x4 ......................................... $304.36 (DIY)
Oxygen Sensor Tool ............................................................. $10.xx
Two new pre-cat nuts for O2 sensors due to inexperience .......... $100.00
9. Two Magnaflow Catalytic Converters welded front ..................... $250.00 (Muffler Shop)
10. Driver side fog light bulb ...................................................... $3.78 (DIY)
Harness repair kit ............................................................... $34.04
11. 65w H7 headlight bulbs with H9 burners .................................. $47.xx (DIY)
Replaced 2 H6W city bulbs .................................................... $5.68
12. Random light bulbs behind clusters and CC .............................. $20.00 (DIY)
OE Cluster Removal Hooks .................................................... $25.xx
OE Radio Removal Keys ........................................................ $11.xx
13. Revive 90% of the clock pixels .............................................. (DIY)

Tada!! A grand Total of roughly $1477.46.

To be honest, that was to my surprise that I thought I did the math wrong. I cannot believe my eyes that I spent 1500 on the car in maintenance. I know, I could have save another 200 if I had not replace my working condition 55w OE bulbs and had not be such a newbie and stripped bolts and threads. Well, that is still 1300 dollar on maintenance on a car I got for around 6k out the door.

Before all the stuff I have done, the car drives fine, rating 7/10 IMO. Now, I think the car drives 8.5/10. One reason I did the O2 sensors, mounts, and tranny flush is because I want to fix the vibration problem at idle, before stop and before accel. The problem has dramatically diminished but I can still feel that settle shake right before complete stop and right after let go brake. I know many W210 owners have this problem but from what I have read, there could be many reasons to it. I just cannot yet eliminate all the vibration.

To continue my quest to find the problem, I have already ordered a fuel filter $35.00. If that does not work, I will do the following in this order:

1. MAF Sensor $166.xx
2. Brakes Pads $65, Rotors $220, Alignment $80, Miscellaneous tools and stuff $100
3. Front End Suspension Bushings.

Things I want to do:

1. Radiator Cool Fluid Change
2. OEM Shocks and Springs
3. Charcoal Filters

Here are my questions:

Should I continue to look for the problem since I have gone so far? Or....

Should I stop and just drive it the way it is before I go too far which might not be worth it?

Or what do you think? Am I over reacting?

I bet some of you might once have the some thought about where you should draw the line. This stuff is fun but it is getting a little out of hand, don't you think?. Please share some of your maintenance experience as I just want to see if the money and hard work I dumped into this car is worth it.

FYI, I am planning on keeping the car for maybe two years.

Thanks
Hugo

PS: the title is a little misleading as I initially wanted to know what I can do next for better MPG, but ended up venting on what I have spent on the car. Well, if you may, please info me too on better MPG. I started off at ~21mpg highway going 80mph, and now I can do 25.5mpg going around 75-80mph.

 

[C_R]

LOL. Don't be skeptical with Slick 50 to trust only synthetic. I used conventional 10W40 on my new MB after the first oil change. After 10 years, it runs fine. Near 100K miles, I put Slick 50 in V8's (Ford and MB). With one fill-up, either car could do LA to Sacramento non stop (~400 miles) and more.

What year is your MB? Model?

 

[mbvis]

What year is your MB? Model?

99 E430, built 1/99

 

[Kajtek1]

Thanks, actually, I just got better MPG by joining Geico.

Geico sucks, but vacuuming carpets works for me.

 

[mbvis]

I get incredible mpg when I stay home.

In math, 0m/0g is undefined