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a good MILD and need i stress MILD if u dont want to strip the metal right down to no chrome, and ALOT of elbow grease. after the hard labor, there are a few waxes available that will "take" to metal, and help keep it clean and free of spots, at least for a week or so. its almost a losing battle, frustrating but true nontheless.
 

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2008 PT, 1998 neon--1965 VW 1200
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chroms or aluminum?

there are two kinds of trim on these cars, it seems.

chrome is the grille, star, bumper, mirror and rub-strips. use any brand of metal cleaner that says its good for chrome and rub like you're a hungry whore=)

the badges, hubbies(if youve got them) and window surrounds are(or seem on my car to be) aluminum(like a vw, all cloudy and yuk)

i used a buffer to wax the car *finally* and it really really really shined up the window surrounds as well. i was just using plain turtle wax in a can.
 

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1989 W201.029/M103 3.0
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244 Posts
There's specialized aluminium polish you can get, meant for things like alloy bull bars but it's good stuff for any alloy polishing. Bit on the expensive side.
Otherwise silvero and brasso are good. There's another stuff my brother in law likes, called "purple stuff" and, you guessed it, it's purple. We used it in one workshop I was at, it's good also.

Brass wool for chrome. I use steel wool myself but that's me and I wipe away residual steel dust with a practised towel-flicking. You're supposed to use brass wool for chrome so the dust doesn't rust later.
 

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1975 Mercedes 300D
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225 Posts
A little trick I learned that works on chrome/metal that is rusty is, you take some tin foil and rub the rusted areas down, it takes the rust away and makes it shine again. The tin foil works like a very fine sandpaper.
 

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1984 300D Turbo
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aluminum trim around windows.
some people have brought them back using polishing compound and a dremel.
wasn't there some sort of plastic clear overcoating put on in the factory over the aluminium?
the dremel takes that all off as well.
 
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