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Robert Ortega said:
Thanks for the tips. Unfortunatly the last dealership (mercedes) that did my 60,000 oil change put to much oil in, thus the warning goes off on my display to reduce oil level. All I need to know is where to suck out about a half quart. You mention the oil hole but wear is it exactly in my 230 kompressor? Thanks for your input.
If you have an oil extractor pump (not a syphon pump--I tried it and it sucks, er, doesn't suck actually), go to the dip stick tube, which has a cap and no dip stick in it. On my C320, it's in the back toward the firewall (must remove airbox first). Or if you go to the first page of this thread, there are actual pictures.

Bonne chance!
 

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topsider

wouldn't using a topsider prevent the sludge at the bottom of the oilpan from coming out. Especially if you do it throught the dipstick hole ( is that even possible?).
 

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kevin

i don't know where you located at, but here in So Cal you can take used oil to any parts store and Jiffy Lube for recycling no question ask as long as their tank isn't full.
 

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How to change Cabin Filter

Hello, I am new to this site. Your oil change instruction are great. Thank you for the posting. I had a question. How do you change the cabin filter? I have an 2003 C230. Do they have sparkplugs?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Cabin filter is in a black box in the engine bay on the passenger side up by the windsheild. The Cabin Filter is above the battery. It's simple to remove. The A/C cabin Filter Part # is: A203 830 01 18. $22+ at the dealer, but $10.27 at OEM Parts Direct :: Jaguar, Land Rover, Mercedes-Benz, Porsche, and Volvo

As for spark plugs...I have never changed them....they are good for 100,000 miles
 

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Today I'll be changing my oil and filter. Talked to the dealership about the brand of oil to use out of the available ones listed in the certified parts manual. They said they normally use the 0w-40 during summer time, and use the 10w-30/40 during winter. The only available oil listed that I could get a hold of was the Castrol Syntec 10w-40. They said that there is no real difference between the Castrol Syntec 30 or 40, but because only the 40 was listed as approved in the manual I used that.

Dealership also said there should be no adverse side effects on the engine wear, or performance from using the Castrol compared to the Mobile 1 Tri-Synthetic 0w-40. I did purchase the fleece filter from the dealership, and found out something interesting. Apparently there is more than one type of filter for the 02' C230K Sports Coupe (possible the other years too, but not sure). They were going to sell me the wrong one at first until I got the VIN number. First one was a lot shorter than the correct one. So be very careful when buying the filter, and make sure you get the correct one.

At the dealership I had asked for the Oil filter kit, but they said there was no such thing. I should of read this better first, and just told them the exact o-rings I needed. The o-rings for the cartridge, and the o-ring for the oil drain cap on the underbody. I hope the old o-rings will still be alright, and do their job.

Anyways, I hope this information helps some of you, and thank you for the great write up Spoons.
 

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I have been using an oil extractor for years now (from Griot's Garage). It takes everything out. When using an extractor, you should not drain the oil out while the engine is cold. Run the engine 7 - 10 minutes, then run the extraction. The dealerships in my area (Seattle) all do it this way.
 

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I have been using an oil extractor for years now (from Griot's Garage). It takes everything out. When using an extractor, you should not drain the oil out while the engine is cold. Run the engine 7 - 10 minutes, then run the extraction. The dealerships in my area (Seattle) all do it this way.
There seems to be a lot of mixed information on whether to use the conventional drain plug draining method or the oil extractor. I was hoping that someone with a qualified MB background can clear this up? The oil extractor is a lot more convenient so I would like to use this if it is actually more efficient. By the way rayabello, running the car for 10 minutes and then letting it rest for 5-10 is the norm with drain plug method also.

As to my above previous post. Although the dealership said that the Castrol Syntec would not cause additional engine damage, I was told by a retired MB mechanic/technician that it would cause additional damage during cold start ups. The additional weight of the oil is the cause of the added damage. On this forum I was also told that the Castrol Syntec is not true synthetic oil, but instead, extra refined conventional oil. If anyone is having troubles finding the Mobil-1 0w-40, it is available at Autozone, Checker Auto, and a few other stores. Today I returned the Castrol (Wal-mart), and purchased the Mobil-1 0w-40 (Autozone). Still awaiting the oil change, and I have decided to stop driving my car until it is changed. Should have it done tomorrow.
 

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Good call on sticking with Mobil 1 0W-40. I have heard from some other threads to check the Mobil 1 package as well to ensure it says on the back "MB Spec#". I heard some of the retailers carry stock without this on the label.
 

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Good tip, and yes I did do that before purchasing. The reason why is it didn't show "Tri-Synthetic" anywhere on the container. I guess none of them do. Another good note is that the 6 quarts of Mobil-1 0w-40 was only about five dollars more than the 6 quarts of Castrol Syntec 10w-40. Really good pricing on the Mobil-1 being that it is a far better synthetic (If you could even call the Castrol synthetic...).

"MB approval 229.5"
 

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Well, today I had the oil filter, and oil changed. Did it at a Wal-mart TLE, and had a friend of mine, who works at the TLE, and is very car smart do it. I wrote out the instructions for him off this thread, and everything went just fine. I actually helped do the work also. Easy to get the underbody cover and engine cover off. Engine cover is just a clip type system that pulls off. Underbody is bolted.

For anyone interested. You can go into the TLE bay and watch the guy work on your car. All you need is to wear a pair of the safety glasses they use. It's Wal-mart safety regulations that you must wear the safety glasses while in the bay area. It was only $10 dollars to have the oil and filter changed when I purchased the filter and oil myself. That ran the total up to about $65 dollars. Hell of a lot better than the $140 dollars the dealership wanted.

Now to my question. We put in the 5.25 quarts as suggested on this thread, and the dip stick only read a little less than half way inbetween min/max. Decided this was not enough oil and put the full 6 quarts in, which only brought the dip stick to halfway inbetween min/max. I ran the car for a while, assuming it would raise from heat expansion, and it still only reads halfway inbetween. What's going on here? I feel like I should put more oil in, but based on this thread I also feel that might be a bad idea. I'm going to call the dealership here in a few if they are open.

Thanks,
Matt
 

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In my "C-Class Sportcoupe Operator's Manual" inside the "Technical data" section is reads;

"Fuels, coolants, lubricants etc. - capacities
...
...
........................................ Capacity ..................... Fuels, coolants, lubricants etc.
Engine with oil filter |||||| 7.4 US qt (7.0 1) ||||||| Recommended engine oils"

I'm at a loss as to why Spoons guide says to use 6 quarts maximum when the manual for my car says 7.4 quarts? Is his car a different engine model? I hope driving for a few between the min/max wasn't bad for my car... Someone please verify. I would rather not call the dealership, and sound like a complete idiot.

Something else that I have realized. In this picture posted by spoons;

When we took the filter out of the car there was not a bottom attachment as in his photograph where the small and medium o-rings are. Just the top filter cap. We also looked down into the engine where the filter is, and that piece was not down in the engine, or at least not from what I can recall. Am I missing that bottom attachment, or is this normal for my engine? I'm sure that would be terrible for my car if it was missing... My filter cap does not have that extended socket area on the top of it. The entire filter cap is like a huge socket area. At the TLE they used a large cup like socket that covered the entire filter cap to remove it. If I'm not explaining it good enough I can get a photograph. Let me know.

I think that this guide is for the supercharged 1.8lt C230K, and that is why there are these few differences?

Thanks,
Matt
 

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I need to reset the B service indicator also on my 2005 C230 Kompressor. The DIY instuctions here were great, appreciate the help!!!

Awesome.
 

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Hey guys, got a newbie here.

I was looking at this thread and wondering if anyone can tell me what is done on service A and B? I am new to the benz world (it is the wife's car) and just paid 250 for service A that on paper looks like an oil change!!! Then they told me i needed to have the brakes pads replaced and the front rotors turned for a mere 900.. :wtf:

I personally have an 03 Harley F150 (charged tuned and ready:D ) So needless to say i don't mind turning wrenches just want to know what all they are doing. I can change the oil with a gold filter for less than that..........
 
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