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Discussion Starter #1
I'm building a pushbutton system to start my 200E through a microcontroller and some power relays. I'd like to expand this project adding some security sensors, a remote (cellphone) start, doors unlock. I have so many ideas. When I'll finish the project, I'd like to share some videos.

The first big problem is the steering lock. If I start the car by pressing a button, I can drive it without keys, but I can't steer!

I read the famous document 46-8010.pdf: "Removing and installing the steering lock complete" but I don't want to break anything.

If I remove the entire ignition assembly, would I be able to steer? The steering lock is normally locked or normally unlocked?
Is there a SAFE method for disable steering lock? For "safe" I mean a physical impossibility to engage itself. I don't want risk an accident.

Thanks
 

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I've been on the same train of thought with my 83 300D and so far I've not gotten much support. To most, it doesn't seem possible. I know it is. Just have to think like an electrician, not an auto guy.

Look at diesel giant's DIY fix for ignitions and you may find your answer there. He ground down the lock thus eliminating the locking feature of the steering wheel. I can't recall if that was permanent or if he replaced it, but the steering lock can be eliminated.

I personally don't care if the steering locks up to keep the car from being stolen. I want to unlock my doors, flip a switch to start the glow plugs, flip the switch again to begin the starter and once it's running, leave the switch at a spot where it can be in "run mode". That's what our keys do, why not a switch instead?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Unfortunately, in this car the steering lock isn't electric, it is mechanic. So I can't ground anything. I have to remove something in order to disengage the lock.
I agree with you about auto thefts, I don't care about steering lock security feature, so I'm going to disable it anyway.
 

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Just take out the pull the pin then the steering lock. It only keeps the wheel from turning.


I just put the push to start computer (I built) in the 140 I just sold. You can do it!


I used Ford and Chevrolet parts to make the push to start. Actually that 140 no longer even needs keys, but you better have the remote. lol..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just take out the pull the pin then the steering lock. It only keeps the wheel from turning.

I just put the push to start computer (I built) in the 140 I just sold. You can do it!

I used Ford and Chevrolet parts to make the push to start. Actually that 140 no longer even needs keys, but you better have the remote. lol..
Do you mean 37d ?

 

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Lol, I forgot I was in E-Class for a minute.


If you want to keep the lock in place, just grind the tounge off. The lock wont lock the wheel, but the assembly will still wok.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Do you mean grind the "tongue"? I was thinking of doing something reversible, without breaking anything. Even my mechanic suggested that.
 

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Do you mean grind the "tongue"? I was thinking of doing something reversible, without breaking anything. Even my mechanic suggested that.
I was thinking the easiest way. But, you can also just disassemble the lock and take the tounge (plate) out and reassemble.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you, I'll try next weekend. I would be very careful before attempting anything on the ignition lock, because I read:

The steering lock must not be turned out of position "1" without the ignition/starter switch otherwise the steering lock locks in such a way that it cannot be released.
 

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Thank you, I'll try next weekend. I would be very careful before attempting anything on the ignition lock, because I read:
Yes sir in the #1 position. Any other position and the lock will "trip" and you DONT want the answer to that.

Usually I just put it in #1 and pull the whole assembly at one time, actually I think your lock has the cable too. You will have to unscrew that.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I just did a little research, actually in 2010 only 10% of purchased cars had automatic transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
LET'S START!

Ok. After several tries I managed to successfully remove the whole ignition assembly. My car is a 1990 W124 124.021 200E kat.
Here are some HD videos:
As you can see in my videos, my ignition connector (S2/1x1) has 8 pins.
There are two pins labeled "30". Furthermore, I discovered a pin labeled "15T" which I didn't find on schematics! So I checked all connections with a tester and wrote down a table with connections. I think this table will be VERY useful if you're planning to project a complete electronic starter.
Here is my table:
Code:
 PIN "30" (red, 2 THICK WIRES) connected to:

-----|----|-----|-----|-----|-----|-----------------|------------|
     |OFF | ACC | ON  |START| RUN | Wire color      | Wire size  |
-----|----|-----|-----|-----|-----|-----------------|------------|
P30  | *  |  *  |     |     |     | green/white     | thin       |
15X  |    |     |  *  |     |  *  | pink/green      | THICK      |
50   |    |     |     |  *  |     | purple (2 wires)| THICK+thin |
15T  |    |     |     |  *  |  *  | pink/blue       | thin       |
15R  |    |  *  |  *  |  *  |  *  | pink/yellow     | THICK      |
15   |    |     |  *  |  *  |  *  | pink/red        | THICK      |
-----|----|-----|-----|-----|-----|-----------------|------------|

OFF is the position 0 (engine off)
ACC is the position 1 (engine off, accessories on)
ON is the position 2 (engine off, accessories on)
START is the position 3 (engine on, accessories off)
RUN is the position 2 (engine on, accessories on) again but with engine running.
Tomorrow I'll upload some pictures also.
 
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