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Discussion Starter #1
I will be changing the springs on my car to H&R in the next couple of weeks.

I'd like to change the spring pads on this occasion to new ones.

My MB dealer determined at first that I should be using 18mm pads. Later they said that if I am installing new springs, which are harder I should use 13mm pads.

What I want, is to lower the car, but just a little bit.
The most important thing is for the car to be level. What I want to avoid, is the front sitting higher than the rear.

If I understand correctly the highest pad for the front is 23mm and for the rear is 18mm. If I use 18mm pads all around I should get a slightly lowered car (with H&Rs) with rear a little bit higher than the front. That would be perfect, since I want to relocate the battery to the trunk and occasionally I travel with five people + luggage on board.

I don't know if that is the way it works. Can someone more knowledgeable tell me which pads I should choose?

Another question:

What are these for?





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I wish someone answered that for me, but I had to do trial and error at shop rates.

PERSONALLY, I would start with 1 bump in the rear on the initial spring swap. And try 2 or 3 to start in the front.

On my wagon: JUST got it level (and HOT! imo) today. 1 in rear, 4 in front on HRs
On my Cab, 1 in back (changing this today too) and 3 in front got me level.

A single bump makes a barely noticeable difference. My guess is from what you describe you want, 1-2 bumps more in the front, however you go will still keep nose lower.

But frankly, I am one of the last guys I'd listen to.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's actually some useful information RHW.

Did You use H&R springs model specific for Your car?

I have been told that in the long run the pads will eventually settle. And that they always go down more in the front.

For the reasons stated in the first post I'd prefer my car to stand a little higher in the rear.

I think I'll go for 3 bump all around, but I'll use the shims for the front springs.

That should keep the car about level, even with battery in the trunk and some load on board.

Thanks for input!
 

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I have 1 bump front and 3 rear and it sits level. I do carry my sub and fluids in the rear though...although altogether it cannot weigh more than like 80lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ps2cho, did You also use the H&Rs?

It is all hard to compare. I found one H&R datasheet saying that springs for 12v models give even front/rear lowering of 30mm, while sets for 24v models give 35mm front/ 30mm rear lowering.

People experience various front/rear levelling issues and I don't quite understand it.

I guess I'll have to try the first setup and then change pads if there will be any levelling issues.

Thanks for help.
 

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Will have some real world answers soon. My coupe as pictured has OE 3 bumps all around. I have purchased four two-bumps and four one-bumps. When my trusty indie shop installs brake pads in coming weeks, I'm going to have them swap in the one-bumps. Will share :)
 

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Thats why they make several pads...there are variables at play here.

Oh, and car has to be perfectly level to check. :) Slight inclines either way will make your eyes play tricks on you.
 

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There seems to be no real established rhyme or reason to which pads are OE in which variants or at which end of the car...that's why I decided but to get a full set of one's and two's. With three's on the car, will have the full factory range to fiddle with....
 

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just got off the phone with a parts tech at Park Place Mercedes in Fort Worth. He looked up the VIN on my E320 and the factory shims size was stated as 21mm or #5. He also stated there were no shims on the rear. Only some sort of upper plastic spacer. This conflict with what I've read in the posts here on BW. He added info about lower vibration pads that were the same all-around. Could an experienced BW member chime-in and provide clarity. I'm planning to upgrade to E55 springs and shocks. A level chassis is the goal with the shims. I want to have all the parts and info needed before I get started.
 

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... He also stated there were no shims on the rear. Only some sort of upper plastic spacer. This conflict with what I've read in the posts here on BW....
You got conflicting information because your are in the wrong forum. You are in W124 sub-forum. Look for the correct sub-forum for your MB model.
 

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I am about to go through the same thing and was basing my decisions on this:

Koni vs Bilstein? Eibach vs H&R? Should I or Shouldn't I? HELP! - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

It says the opposite, that the aftermarket springs always sit lower at the back and you need to go 1-2 bump higher pads for the rear.

The factory set-up in my '89 260E with air, prem. leather, full timber etc is 3 bump at the front and 2 at the back. I was expecting to have to go 1 bump front and 3 bump back, but I guess I won't know til the springs are installed...

Very confusing stuff.

I did buy a spring compressor though :D
 

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If you look into the spring tower at the visible bottom of the Spring pad, it will have a nub/nipple/bump. Each "nub" corresponds to pad thickness.
Search spring pad bump/nub/nipple and you should find an image of what they are talking about. Here's a pad with 4 bumps. (pads upside down from in car orientation to picture)
 

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Mercedes officially calls the bumps, nibs etc "burls". Use EPC to look up the part numbers and thickness of each variant 1 - 4.
 

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ps2cho, did You also use the H&Rs?

It is all hard to compare. I found one H&R datasheet saying that springs for 12v models give even front/rear lowering of 30mm, while sets for 24v models give 35mm front/ 30mm rear lowering.

People experience various front/rear levelling issues and I don't quite understand it.

I guess I'll have to try the first setup and then change pads if there will be any levelling issues.

Thanks for help.

I guess you have to keep in mind the weight of the engine.
 
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