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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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With all those brackets it is pretty big job. Better subscribe to a site with WIS.
I think we do have some topics about it as well. Check stickies.
 

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1972 280CE
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Al for that link.

Already got the electric cooling fan out of the way. Still not able to lift the radiator up.

The radiator was already changed before and has the bottom hoses clamps pointing in the wrong directions. to the bottom for me to unscrew it. So I can't reach the screws. May have to cut those two bottom radiator hoses to get the radiator out.

need to get the tranny cooler out of the say now. please send ideas and instructions to do it right....

also, what is the metal pipe that goes from the front top of the coolent radiator? (passenger side front of the radiator) Meets a flex pipe at the bottom behind the radiator. I need to find a way to get that out of the way too.

Also, any ideas to get the mechanical fan off, it is getting in my way to reach the clamps at the bottom? how many screws or special tool that would make it easy?

Thanks for help.

Appreciate your help. need to get this car running again soon.

Sam
 

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1972 280CE
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Sam,

There should be no need to remove the engine fan. Removing the core support as described in the document will allow you to remove the fan shroud which in turn will allow you to access the transmission cooler hoses.

If the bottom radiator hose clamps are pointing down, then you'll need to remove the bottom cover will requires for a couple of screws to be removed from under the car and a couple more from each well (up front).

It's not a lot of work and certainly not worth cutting the hoses for.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi Al,

just found out that the front cooler is AC condenser. sitting in L shape clamp on the radiator.

I think tranny hose (metal pipe) is the one going from front top of the radiator then by the side and bottom and secured with a screw to the radiator at the bottom inside? And then connected to a flexible hose for 6-8 inches and then continuing with another metal pipe? I only see one pipe, if it is tranny fluid hose, it must have other entry/exit hose too. I don't see that.

so far I am accounting for 5 hoses in the radiator.
1. from reservoir tank bottom to the radiator bottom.
2. from reservoir tank top to the radiator top. (return line, I guess)
3. waterpump to radiator bottom.
4. engine top to radiator top. (3,4 closing the water pump circuit, I guess)
5. metal pipe connecting front top radiator. ( don't know what this is and where is the other entry/exit of this pipe?)

I must be missing a connection somewhere that I can't see, to go with 5 above. (possibly tranny hose?)

Thanks,
 

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1972 280CE
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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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Front bumper is hold by only 2 bolts and than slides out, but disconnecting the wiring and belly pan take some time. I did replace radiator without bumper removal, but had to bend some shrouds on the way, so better remove the bumper.
 

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1990 Mercedes-Benz 420 SEL(RIP),1997 Mercedes-Benz E420
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Front bumper is hold by only 2 bolts and than slides out, but disconnecting the wiring and belly pan take some time. I did replace radiator without bumper removal, but had to bend some shrouds on the way, so better remove the bumper.
I agree, taking the bumper out would make the job easier. I didn't take mine out but like Kajtek I probably increased the job time by another hour.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the link again Al. Lot of useful stuff there.

Preparing to take the bumper off. I pushed somebody from behind and the bumper is pushed in and a little out of alignment too. So, it will give me a chance to fix that as well.

Clearly the 6th pipe I was missing is behind the bumper at the bottom of the radiator. Wasn't able to see that...

starting some work. will post questions here as I run into them.

Thanks Al and everybody for help.

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ok,

Now while I continued to work on taking bumper off, I tried to plug the radiator leak with JB weld to see if it works. Now I think there is no water circulation in the cooling system.

I turned the car on, it heated up to 100 degrees and radiator stayed cool. (did not leak for a positive news). Did I plug the radiator all together with my JB weld application from out side? Do this radiators have one circulation circuit which I pluged or multiple independent? I plugged on the side wall only 2mm leak I think.

Or is there a process once the air gets in the cooling system to get the air out? not sure why the my upper radiator hose and radiator are not getting hot when I turned the car on.
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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I paid about $550 for Behr from a warehouse. Not really cheap.
Radiator is not something you can really save. If buy cheaper one, it will keep the engine hotter, taking your fuel money for running the fans.
It is like buying cheap plugs - for each $1 saved - you will spend $10 on wasted fuel till you replace the plugs again.
 

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1972 280CE
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I paid about $550 for Behr from a warehouse. Not really cheap.
Radiator is not something you can really save. If buy cheaper one, it will keep the engine hotter, taking your fuel money for running the fans.
It is like buying cheap plugs - for each $1 saved - you will spend $10 on wasted fuel till you replace the plugs again.
You paid too much i'm afraid,

Behr
210 500 12 03 Radiator
$317.15
list: $358.00

Nissens
$220.00.

While Behr is OE, Nissens is a very good quality alternative and many MB owners are leaning towards Nissens these days because they are still made in Europe while Behr has outsourced much of their manufacturing to China.
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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Our 2nd, newly purchased E300DT has Nissen radiator. The car runs over 5 degrees warmer than the one I put Behr in. But PO put green coolant into the Nissen and I had to flush it.
 

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'01-E320 & 02-ST2
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The radiator for a W210 V8 is A WHOLE LOT DIFFERENT than the OPs diesel...and cheaper, too.
 

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2001 E320 - Brilliant Silver/Ash: 107,000+
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Our 2nd, newly purchased E300DT has Nissen radiator. The car runs over 5 degrees warmer than the one I put Behr in. But PO put green coolant into the Nissen and I had to flush it.
Kajtek1, do you think Nissen has restricted channels as a result of the green coolant or is that not as good a radiator in the first place?
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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Kajtek1, do you think Nissen has restricted channels as a result of the green coolant or is that not as good a radiator in the first place?
I wish to answer the question myself, but it might turn impossible.
I know green coolant is radiator killer and even I flush it with Prestone flush, I have no way to know if I restored it to original efficiency.
Than the new purchase is driven by my son, while my primary vehicle is Ford Superduty :D
I would like to assume that we have combination of both, but I have no way to prove it.
Clearing up the price issue - I bought my radiator like 3-4 years ago. Maybe the $550 price I remember was the right price at the time, maybe my memory plays trick on me, but that doesn't matter if you shop around now. I did check the prices at the time and could get aftermarket radiator over $100 cheaper, but it would take few days and the time was critical at the moment. Picking up parts from warehouse 10 minutes away does have its advantages.
 
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