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Current C350, 560SEL, 380SL Past C220, 280S, 300SEL, 200SEb
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6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 560 SEL is on it's last legs. I'm trying to extend it's useful life. The SLS system is shot. I've decided to convert to a 420SEL setup with springs and shocks so I'm stripping off the hydraulics. I know I can't drive around with the hydraulic pump sucking air. and need to remove the pump. I've purchaed a block off plate.

Before I just dive in trying to remove the pump does anyone have any pointers as to how to best accomplish this? Is it just an unbolt and remove? Is there someone with experience doing this that can keep me out of trouble? What special tools may be needed beyond just basic hand tools and wrenches / allen wrenches?

Any help would be most appreciated.
 

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'82 Euro 500SEL, '85 Euro 500SEC AMG WB Cabriolet,'86 Euro 500SEC RUF
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9,528 Posts
Because of a leak in the right side SLS hose, I removed the SLS pump from Sylvia and replaced it with a block off plate found in a JY off a 500 series Gen I engine. It was an option then. I blocked off the lines and had no trouble driving the car from Los Angeles County, CA to Peachtree City Georgia. Once there I installed the right side SLS line and re-installed the SLS pump.

Straight forward remove and replace with the block off plate and gasket. Make sure you remove the pump drive piece from the drive gear on the car(rectangular piece of steel). I didn't remove that and it made the trip OK, but I advise against leaving it in the drive gear.
 

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1993 300TE, 1995 E320 Wagon
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1,895 Posts
What is shot on the system? If the pump itself is leaking, you can rebuild it (I have two rebuilds on my bench right now). If it's the accumulators, they can be replaced pretty easily too, for about $100 per side. If the rams are leaking, well, then, I understand what you are going to do.

To remove the pump and put the blocking plate on, as well as trying to remove all the lines associated with the system on the engine, I'd advise you remove the smog pump belt, the A/C belt, the A/C belt tensioner, the fan, and the fan shroud to get easier access. Far less cursing will ensue if you make it relatively easy to get the pump off and apply the blocking plate (ask me how I know...:rolleyes:). The four allen (5mm) screws that attach the pump to the block are at 11, 2, 5, and 8 o'clock on the pump. There are two other screws, but they simply hold the front plate of the pump to the pump itself (see picture attached-- although I just realized it's sideways. The two screws you see are the two that hold the face on)

Get a turkey baster and remove as much oil as you can from the reservoir, or you'll make a fine mess. The line from the reservoir to the pump is attached to the block by a 10mm bolt that it almost impossible to see, but you access it from the front of the engine, just above the A/C compressor. The line that goes from the side of the pump and down around the main crank pulley is I think a major PITA to remove. I had a shop replace that line when it was leaking last spring. I tried to pull it in a JY and never could figure how to do it easily without taking all sorts of big things off the engine (like the crank pulley itself). Maye it can be "snaked" through, I don't know.
 

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'82 Euro 500SEL, '85 Euro 500SEC AMG WB Cabriolet,'86 Euro 500SEC RUF
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9,528 Posts
I replace that passenger side hose on Sylvia in Taylor's dad's garage. NEVER again! You can snake the forward end around and behind the big stuff, but it ain't for the faint of heart. you have to have the car off the ground in the front, Alternator, air pump, etc off, for room to maneuver the hose around to snake it. and then make sure you replace all of the mtg. clips. Usually a messy, nasty job.

One reason that I want nothing to do with a SLS system on my cars. They are nice, but a PITA when they or a component fails.
 

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Current C350, 560SEL, 380SL Past C220, 280S, 300SEL, 200SEb
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6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks to all for the help

I really appreciate the help. The picture of which bolts to remove was really of great help to avoid the trial & error approach. I also appreciate the pointer to remove the drive piece that may remain when the pump is pulled.

My 1990 560SEL was my dream car when I purchased it. Looked for 3 months until finding one on line within 100 miles of my home. Had only 100,000 miles and was rust free - I thought:(:

After 4 years it was time for a redo - spent $4000 for a full body restore and repaint. Also threw in a new windshield to clear the stone pits. Car was like new - for a while.

I typically had to spend about $1500 per year in repairs to keep it up, sometimes more, sometimes less. But each time someone worked on it they cautioned my that the underside of the car was really rusty and I should sell it while I could. Then I had health problems, then I lost my job........ that was 2008. I landed a $9.20/hr job and a part time $20/hr job but my expenses are high.

Now the repairs are being delayed, little things are going wrong, the rear curtain won't go up, the fan is working only sporadically and the bumpers are now rusting along with the front edges of the fenders along the bumpers. I hadn't been driving it much due to gas prices.Then I saw the river of fluid from under the back wheel. Then the starter quit the same day - had the dealer replace the starter and they told me I should have sold the car like they said - they said the SLS lines are totally rotted and fixing one would lead to fixing all and the lines run with the brake and gas which also look bad - and, by the way, the gas line is leaking. They said fixing the SLS lines are big bucks. Then the rear brake line popped on the way home.

The only way I can afford to keep this car on the road with my income is to pull the SLS and put 420SEL springs and shocks in the back. At least the income from my 2nd job would cover the cost. I got a garage who would fix the brakes and gas line and pull the SLS stuff. Then I lost my 2nd job.

So I'm trying to fix up my 560 myself to sell. I don't want to leave the job half done for the next guy but the SLS will have to go and I'll need to finish the job on my own. I want the car to go to someone who will appreciate her and keep her going and don't want to sell before the work is completed.

At least I'll still have my 380SL and my wife will have her 2006 C350 but I'll miss my 560SEL:crybaby2:
 

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1993 300TE, 1995 E320 Wagon
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1,895 Posts
Boy, that's a tough story... sorry to hear that things are tight.

I have to say that frankly it appears that you're going to be throwing good money at the car, with little likelihood you'll see it come back after the sale. If the car is rusting out, you're going to find it difficult to get more than $1000 or so for it, and I'd say you're going to have to put in a good chunk of that just to get it running right, with all the issues you mentioned. I would say part it out-- the rear sunshade is worth a couple hundred perhaps-- the scrapyard will give you a few hundred for metal, you might sell some interior pieces (the rolltop console box could be $100, depending on condition). I'd say you might be better off in the long run getting another car, for maybe $2500, a good w124 300E or E320 (if you want to stay in a Benz). Your fuel cost would be about half of the 560SEL. I myself am looking into a VW diesel for my DD, just because my SEL drinks so much (I'll still keep it though).
 

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69,440 Posts
Yep, what he said: part it out and regroup to focus on your life rather than a car. At this junction, securing a better job for the long term is what you should have an anxiety about. For the money you're planning on throwing on this car you can get yourself a used beater to get you through job interviews and you can always get back another W126 in much better shape during better times.
A W201 could be had for the price of a brand new set of shocks and springs you would have spent on the 560 SEL
 

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1988 560SEL
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63 Posts
Curious; How did it go? MANY of Us (Worldwide) could benefit from EVERYTHING You discovered ... My Kids (& Grandsons, AND Friends!) have gone NUCLEAR on Me for trying to Shred My Benz Collection, so for Peace & Quiet while I sip Honey-Blend Wild Turkey Whiskey, I've told them I'll "reconsider" ... BUT! I just spent (TODAY!) $654 [used parts & labor]; Yanking SLS for 420SEL Shocks & Springs, & I'm not done YET in "making" THAT work ... My (Older) Grandson did the "Granpa" bit, & I promised He can have the Damn Thing when He finally Pries My Cold Dead FINGERS from it ... Bless his heart ... Harleys NEVER gave me This Much Trouble!
 

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1987 560SEL Astral Silver/Silver blue leather,Michelins,SONY
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821 Posts
Another vote for getting out of it and moving on. Or just part it out as you have time and share with others who need parts and pieces. Sounds like throwing good money after bad.
 
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