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1989 300E
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm working on my 2000 S500, and the a/c blower is making a gawd awful noise, and I can feel it vibrating under the passenger side dash. But I can't figure out how to get at it to replace it. Through the glove box? Under the dash? Through the engine compartment?

Thanks in advance!!!!
 

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I actually managed to pull off the passenger side foot area carpet and there you will have to unscrew the plastic covering which is almost parallel to the floor. From what I can see there are 4 (torx?) screws which house the blower motor...

I got stuck there as I couldn't get those screws off (didn't have the proper tool).

I can see from there what looks to be the wiring harness for the fan motor and I can pinpoint where the noise is coming from.... it's def. coming from the fan as the noise changes when I tap it.

My question is how much more work is it once you get those 4 screws off? What are the additional steps required? How much time should it take?

thanks,
 

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2003 S600, 2002 C320 Wagon
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To get at the blower motor, the knee protector cover has to be removed (padded area under the glove box). That exposes the blower motor cover (4 screws to be removed). From there, the blower regulator can be disconnected. Two screws are undone to remove the regulator. Three more screws are undone to allow removal of the motor and impeller.
 

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While you guys are at it you should change your dust filters (remove glove box, its really easy). There are usually a lot of leaves there, that may be causing the noise. There should be some leaves in your blower motor as well...
 

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When replacing the blower motor, does one typically need to replace the regulator/resistor as well?

All of my fan functions work as they should, it's just the noise from the fan.
 

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Depends on the day!
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I would....if it's Just noisy you should be OK w/ just the fan but if it's intermittent do the reg as well.

Also check for water intrusion in the 00-02 cars...

Jonathan
 

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2000 and 2003 W220 S500
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930 Posts
There's good info on this thread already. I just wanted to add pics and notes.

First, some notes:

The blower motor is located at the passenger side. You know its starting to go when you start to hear - I call them crickets - It's a high pitched sound, not deafening, more annoyingly loud.

The pics don't really give much of a sense of scale. This motor is about 6-7 inches across.
What's also not really well depicted is that this motor is behind your glove compartment exactly underneath your cabin air filters. That makes sense now, since it sucks air from the outside, through the air filters and then into the cabin. (This was a duh, of course that's how it works moment for me)

As an aside, exactly above your air filters is the drain for rain water. The reed valve here is notorious for clogging up and even has some sort of lawsuit/settlement because water pools there. Link below - Post #4 shows where blockage happens.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/1394676-please-help-car-flooded-all-rain.html

The reason I'm mentioning all this is because all these pieces are interconnected. If your reed valve is clogged, water collects in the drain. If you get enough water, your blower motor sucks in some of it. After a while, all that moisture rusts the bearings. You start hearing crickets, and eventually, the rust siezes the motor and that shorts the regulator.

Lesson: Keep your reed valve clear and you extend the life of your blower motor and quite possibly avoid A LOT of short circuiting from water getting into the car.

Now to blower motor removal...

Here's the overview


Step 1
Remove the knee protectors.



OK, so the image isn't exactly crystal clear so I numbered in red the order of how you do things.

1. Oddly enough, this picture is showing you the inside of the knee protector, on the outside, it's just black felt. Feel around the middle left and middle right for some metal parts and remove these two lugnuts using an 8mm ratchet.

These are the 2 screws in real life. The picture is taken upside down and underneath the dash.




2. See how in the picture the square holes are larger in the bottom and narrows at the top? You have to slide the knee protector down a bit and then you can pull it out. There is a light under here, just turn it a bit and lead it past the hole from the knee protector
It will stay dangling giving you much needed light to work under here later. Don't remove this light! It will be very helpful later.

Here is the squarish hole and light in real life.



3. This is an extension of the knee protector. Just remove it carefully, there are no clips holding it down, it just tucks in underneath the carpet.

4. This is the plastic cover that's covering the blower motor. Note that you won't see this if you're not upside down and underneath the dashboard.

Here is the official instruction from Mercedes if you find mine more confusing.



Step 2
Remove Blower Motor Plastic Cover

The only way to look at this plastic cover like this is to move the passenger seat all the way back, go in head first in the foot well and lie on your back.
I used a torx screw attached to a ratchet. There really isn't much room to maneuver here.
A mess of debris came down, so I got up and vacumed a bit.

Step 3
Remove the connector plug in the red circle ONLY. The red circle on the left is the plug outside of the plastic cover. The red circle on the right shows what it looks like after the cover has been removed.
I'm making a special mention of this because there is another plug when you remove the plastic cover that connects the blower motor and the regulator. Mine looked connected but oxidised together. The wires were brittle, so messing with them didn't seem like a good idea.



Here are the brittle wires I'm talking about in real life.



Step 4
Remove the blower motor.
Just remove the screws labeled #5 in the right hand picture. All the other screws hold the regulator in place and that was oxidized and brittle.
Remove the blower motor and either go to step 6 or replace with a new one.



Step 6 - Optional -
If you feel you can salvage your motor and your regulator isn't burnt out.
Spin the cage and lubricate with silicone spray. Brush with steel wool and canned air to get rid of the oxidation. Spray whatever moving parts you can see until the squeaking stops then let it rest and soak in a bit. Spray some more, spin some more and then let it air out for at least an hour. Grab a soda or beer. You don't want whatever aerosols your lubricant uses to catch a spark and fire.

Here is the assembly after I lubed it with Polylube 1000. The extra lube is just a precaution. I wiped it off after I installed the motor back on and had it spin in the car.




Step 7 - After putting either a new motor or your refreshed one, put humpty dumpty back together again and enjoy a cricket free automobile.
Oh and here's the official Mercedes way of doing it. Note, I didn't remove the regulator connector plug or the torx screws that connects the regulator to the blower motor. You have to buy them both if one is out, so if it works, don't mess with it and if it doesn't work, you have to replace the whole thing anyway.



Here is a video of the motor running smooth and powerful. The cuts in the video are me turning it up and down as well as on and off.

 

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1997 S320, 1985 300SD, 1987 190E
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Same problem

Thanx for giving me the courage to take mine off and find out why it turns really slow. I can hear it under the dash making a very slow turning noise I ran it hard in Texas this summer and it quite. I had a new Compressor installed 3 years ago and I can feel the cold air moving out of the vents at speed. I am going to try this tomorrow and see it it revives my motor. Could this be a Reg problem? I have a 85 300SD I have restored it doesn't give me any problems this has been a first in years. It is a weekend driver I love the car. Also have cruise control problems.

I have a 1997 s320 daily driver
My wife has a 1987 190E no problems
1985 SD weekend car
 

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2000 and 2003 W220 S500
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It always helps to see the motor by itself. If that's fine, then it's the regulator. Either way, the work is the same.
 

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Current 2017 GLE350, 2007 S550, 2002 S430, 1998 ML320 Deceased 74 240D, 92 400E, 97 E420, 13 GLK350
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Gabby - excellent instructions for the rest of us to use. Thanks!:thumbsup:

From the severity of corrosion in your photos, looks like water ingress was prolonged through the airbox.

I had water overflow 2 years ago, and now keep a 1/4" wooden dowel in my trunk and poke out any debris in the reed valve every few months.
 

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2000 and 2003 W220 S500
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Yup. I made a small cutout on the side of the airbox as an additional precaution to overflowing water. I wash the car weekly, but it's leaf season and a clog can happen any time. If water gets in, a whole army of gremlins happen in the car. I don't want to fight that fight!
 

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1997 S320, 1985 300SD, 1987 190E
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Gabby

Thanx for the Blower motor Info, I just realized I am in the wrong Forum W220 and I am asking questions for a W126. I did get the Blower motor off and applied 12V it spins very well and no noise so I have a regulator problem going to order one in the morning. Not that bad taking it off worried about getting everything back together correctly. It is a Weekend driver for me so no hurries to get it all back together. Again thanx for the insturctions.
 

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w202 C280 gone s124 300TE gone r107 500SL s210 320cdi and 'junior', the w220 S320
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Thanks Gabby

I had the chirping for the last few months, but couldn't scope the job out until I found this thread.

I managed a fix ( how long-lived we'll see) w/o removing the motor. I squirted some liquid grease onto the shaft, ran the motor and it had shut right up. So I squiretd some more up there, ran it a while longer, cleaned it all off, and finished it off with some copper grease which I left in place. reassembled tge lot, ran it and to my pleasant surprise, can't hear a thing.

Thanks again.

Total time to fix, 75 minutes, including having a chat with the postman.
 

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2000 S430, 2003 S430, 2003 S600 TT, and 2005 E320 CDI
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My S600 TT's blower motor went out. May have had something to do with the reed valve getting clogged, as there is plenty of oxidation on the motor part. Rear works great. Front, not at all. However, according to STAR Diagnostic System (SDS), there's no code showing up for this. Hmm....

Found this thread, fortunately. BenzWorld really is the gift that keeps on giving. :) Went through the troubleshooting steps here and found out that yep, we're getting 12V DC on the red (hot) + brown (ground) pair. We're also getting the different voltages, as expected, when we go from low to high from the fan control button (the voltage increases in steps).

So, I knew it was either the regulator or the blower motor. Tried disconnecting the blower motor from the regulator and applied a motorcycle battery's +12VDC to it. Wouldn't spin up. Think we found the problem! Pulled out the blower motor assembly and had a look. Oxidation all over the place. Regulator looks like it's probably OK, but since the blower motor itself isn't spinning up, that is obviously a, or the, problem.

Applied the motorcycle battery's +12VDC to the motor's contacts once it was out of the car. It would spin up sometimes, and other times, it wouldn't. I think the contacts are corroded. However, then I heard it squeaking. Whoops.

New Behr OEM unit is on the way from Rock Auto for $295, shipped. Yep, Rock Auto carries the Behr unit, and it beats the heck out of even MBOemParts.com's price of $560 for the Genuine-MB-branded unit. And I am most certainly *NOT* wasting my time with Chinesium Meyle or URO. Oh--also, a new Behr regulator/resistor is on the way from FCPEuro.

Gabby, thank you for posting this.

WARNING:

It seems that at least some M-B dealer parts departments believe that the correct part # for the regulator/resistor, for W220 chassis cars, is "2208209210" (also known as A220-820-92-10). This is not correct. Matter of fact, it's a different physical form factor and uses a different plug. I don't know which chassis that part # is for, but the correct part number is as follows, taken straight off the part itself, i. e. it's in my hand as I'm typing this.

A230-821-02-51 (2308210251)

Here's the proof. Thumbnails are clickable for a larger image.



That part # has been superseded by 2308216451 (or A-230-821-64-51).

Yes, I know that FCPEuro says it doesn't fit. Well, it does, and they even list it as fitting the 2003-2006 S430. I remind you, this came straight out of my 2003 S600 TT, this evening. If you look at the picture, it's exactly the same as what's in Gabby's pictures. So, be aware.

Note that MBOemParts.com, OEMercedesBenzParts.com, GermanAutoPartsSource.com, Mercedes-Benz of Wappingers Falls, and so on also show 2308210251, and thus its successor, 2308216451, as wrong for the S600 and S500. They're making the same mistake, so clearly this error is coming from higher up the food chain even from them, possibly MBUSA, Inc. itself.
 

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2000 S430, 2003 S430, 2003 S600 TT, and 2005 E320 CDI
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Got some time to do the install of the new blower motor and regulator/resistor this afternoon. Both of these Hella/Behr parts are made in Germany. Yes, "Hella/Behr". Says so right on the box. But what matters here is that THEY ARE NOT CHINESIUM. This is very good.

Note that the original fan blades are black. The new Behr OE unit's blades are white. Big deal, long as it works. And it does, beautifully. It's nice to have front HVAC again, especially now that it's winter and I really could use that windshield defogger. :)

So, I can now confirm that this is a relatively easy replacement. Yes, a little gymnastics is indeed involved, as others have said, but it's not too bad.

By the way, the OE Behr fan was about $250. The OE Behr regulator was about $150. So, just above US $400 for the parts.
 

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WARNING: It seems that at least some M-B dealer parts departments believe that the correct part # for the regulator/resistor, for W220 chassis cars, is "2208209210" (also known as A220-820-92-10). This is not correct. Matter of fact, it's a different physical form factor and uses a different plug. I don't know which chassis that part # is for, but the correct part number is as follows, taken straight off the part itself, i. e. it's in my hand as I'm typing this.
220 820 9210 is a resistor for the rear blower: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-hvac-blower-motor-regulator-2208209210#fitment

Apps for front blower resistor 230 821 6451: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-hvac-blower-motor-resistor-2308216451#fitment
 

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It was fun while it lasted
2002 ML320, 2005 S430 4MATIC RIP, 2010 F150 Crew Cab
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Do replace the regulator. You'll already have it off and it is common for them to go. And sometimes, when they do, they melt down the 40 amp fuse in your fuse block.
 
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