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Discussion starter · #21 ·
I ordered this magnetic drain plug yesterday. I'll install it this week, and start watching carefully to see if I pick up any fragments when changing oil again in 2-3,000 miles.
Next, I'll do visual cam alignment inspection; and may feed in a new chain and tensioner for good measure. I know, some of you guys think I'm nuts and should just roll the dice and drive it into the ground; but the darn car is so nice otherwise; if I can take simple measures to protect it; why not? .I've taken several MB's to over 500,000km without having to even remove a head. I'm going to at least try to get this m272 to 200k miles (300,000km).I don't give up easily. :cool:
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Just keep driving it and stick to the 5k mile oil change interval we discussed previously. If you really want to keep the car long term, keep an eye out for an 08-09 engine. A cheap low mileage example will pop up eventually. I think that's the best option.
 
Discussion starter · #23 · (Edited)
Just keep driving it and stick to the 5k mile oil change interval we discussed previously. If you really want to keep the car long term, keep an eye out for an 08-09 engine. A cheap low mileage example will pop up eventually. I think that's the best option.
Yes, probably the best long-term solution. I'm seeing them in the $2,500-$3,000 price range now, but best to be patient and wait for a good one.

Now with magnetic oil drain plug; when I change oil again in two months I should get some indication if the sprocket is shedding metal. I'll update post for anyone else in the same boat.
Meanwhile.....I'll keep on truck'in. It's otherwise a beautiful vehicle that does everything I need it to. And nothing newer seems much better. Unless I could go back a year or two and find a pristine RWD 2004-05 E320 with a bullet-proof m112 and 722.6 tranny combo in the right colors.
:cool:
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Have we established that the sprocket is ferrous?

What would metal particles in the oil tell you? How would you know they’re from the sprocket? Oil analysis is more informative. But you’ve already heard there’s a built in timer - ~10k miles from CEL. Nothing to do but enjoy it until then.

Sixto
05 E320 wagon 173K miles
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Have we established that the sprocket is ferrous?

What would metal particles in the oil tell you? How would you know they’re from the sprocket? Oil analysis is more informative. But you’ve already heard there’s a built in timer - ~10k miles from CEL. Nothing to do but enjoy it until then.

Sixto
05 E320 wagon 173K miles
The timing chain balance shaft sprocket is supposed to be a hardened material. Am I wrong in assuming it's a steel alloy; that a magnet would attract it's shavings?

Metal shards in the engine oil picked up by the magnetic drain plug would not be a good sign of engine condition; no matter what the source. Of course, no shards on the magnet doesn't mean I'm in the clear either. Anyhow.....I'm just looking for an earlier warning than the CEL light-cam fault codes. Once that happens; I couldn't even sell or trade the car for anything decent.

Some folks claim that not all the engines in the 'bad' numbers actually had a bad balance shaft sprocket. And Mercedes hasn't told us, so now it's our game of Russian Roulette.

IF in the meantime I find a really good 04-05 RWD E320 wagon; my other option is to trade out.
 
At one point it was guestimated that up to 35% of the engines were affected,
but there was never any real data to back that up.
 
Some folks claim that not all the engines in the 'bad' numbers actually had a bad balance shaft sprocket. And Mercedes hasn't told us, so now it's our game of Russian Roulette.
Since you have a scanner take a look at live data in ME. Camshaft position, engine at operating temperature idling. Values for both left and right intake and exhaust camshafts should be nearly identical.
Intake 30 degrees.
Exhaust negative 20 degrees.
Write down those values including decimal point and look at them let's say 5k from now.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
At one point it was guestimated that up to 35% of the engines were affected,
but there was never any real data to back that up.
That's exactly my concern. Some say 20-35%; yet some say 100%. Only MB knows; and they aren't telling anyone. :mad:
IMO MB is deliberately concealing the facts. With many hundreds of thousands of engines affected, they got away with a terrible design and quality flaw.
And, don't believe the problem stops at the engine number they threw out there. My mechanic has seen several balance shaft failures in 08 engines supposedly well beyond the 'number'. The fact that the only way to access the replacement of this acknowledged faulty part is from the rear of the engine; requiring complete engine removal and tear-down....SUCKS!
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Since you have a scanner take a look at live data in ME. Camshaft position, engine at operating temperature idling. Values for both left and right intake and exhaust camshafts should be nearly identical.
Intake 30 degrees.
Exhaust negative 20 degrees.
Write down those values including decimal point and look at them let's say 5k from now.
Thanks, good suggestion. Like the magnetic drain plug;or visual alignment inspection, info that might warn me if there's an issue; before the dreaded 'CEL' and cam fault codes when it's already too late.
 
Discussion starter · #30 · (Edited)
Since you have a scanner take a look at live data in ME. Camshaft position, engine at operating temperature idling. Values for both left and right intake and exhaust camshafts should be nearly identical.
Intake 30 degrees.
Exhaust negative 20 degrees.
Write down those values including decimal point and look at them let's say 5k from now.
Thanks Again Witek for this suggestion. I'm just learning all the things the scanner can do!
I was able to peel the Wife's fingers off the car long enough today to get the following readings.

Engine at idle, full operating temp after 20 mile drive: I used the iCarSoft MB V2.0 'wave' reading to get a min/max reading.
Camshaft Position
Exhaust
332 L -20.26 to -19.75
333 R -20.67 to -19.45
Intake
334 L 35.49 to 36.08
335 R 35.46 to 35.95

Any thoughts??

I'll read it again in about 2 months when I change oil/filter again and also inspect the magnetic drain plug. Will post updated results then.
 
Thanks Again Witek for this suggestion. I'm just learning all the things the scanner can do!
I was able to peel the Wife's fingers off the car long enough today to get the following readings.

Engine at idle, full operating temp after 20 mile drive: I used the iCarSoft MB V2.0 'wave' reading to get a min/max reading.
332 Camshaft Position Exhaust L -20.26 to -19.75
333 R -20.67 to -19.45
334 Intake L 35.49 to 36.08
335 R 35.46 to 35.95

Any thoughts??

I'll read it again in about 2 months when I change oil/filter again and also inspect the magnetic drain plug. Will post updated results then.
Why not just check? Shouldn't take long.


 
Thanks Again Witek for this suggestion. I'm just learning all the things the scanner can do!
I was able to peel the Wife's fingers off the car long enough today to get the following readings.

Engine at idle, full operating temp after 20 mile drive: I used the iCarSoft MB V2.0 'wave' reading to get a min/max reading.
332 Camshaft Position Exhaust L -20.26 to -19.75
333 R -20.67 to -19.45
334 Intake L 35.49 to 36.08
335 R 35.46 to 35.95

Any thoughts??

I'll read it again in about 2 months when I change oil/filter again and also inspect the magnetic drain plug. Will post updated results then.
Here is one I looked at recently. We need more samples.
 

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Discussion starter · #33 ·
Here is one I looked at recently. We need more samples.
The live reading decimal seems to bounce around slightly. But the 'wave' reading produces a graph with a min and max. You can get a sense from the graph what is the 'mean' in the middle it's dark red where it overlaps.
As you can see comparing Exhaust min and max there seems to be about a .30 variance comparing L to R
The Intake min max seemed closer comparing L and R.

How close should L and R be??
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Is it normal for the 'live' cam position reading to be fluctuating .20 to .30 degrees min to max; or is that in itself an indication of loose chain sloppiness?
Just trying to learn something. The OBD II tool is only useful if you know how to interpret the readings. :rolleyes:

I guess I can also try the visual alignment method shown in the Utube videos above.
 
I guess I can also try the visual alignment method shown in the Utube videos above.
Do you think looking down those holes you will be able to pick up .20 degree deviation?
So, actual values are a lot more precise. To find out what the limits are we need samples from engine that has set permanent codes for both intake and exhaust cams in retarded direction.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Why not just check? Shouldn't take long.


OK, the guessing is over.
Finally did the static cam position check with crankshaft at exactly 305 degree mark: Maybe I got lucky??
Although my 2006 m272 engine now has 141k miles I've been doing Mobil 1 changes every 4-5K miles.
I dunno, what do y'all think of images comparing right and left intake at 305 deg.
Might it make it to 200k??
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Not meaning to rain in your parade but there are lots of 2006/7 M272/3 owners out there that aren’t part of this forum.

Sixto
05 E320 wagon 175K miles
 
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