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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
You're doing something wrong...maybe your capacitor is too small or not working properly. Why don't you just do yourself a favor and go down to a good car audio shop and show them what you have and what you may still need to do. My son's system was that big, probably better and spent way more than you did, especially in speakers. And the system ran fine with a 120 amp alt.

Further, you amp rating is highly exaggerated in car audio. That would be 1200 watts RMS total, not per channel and that would be peak-not steady through 20Hz-20KHz.

Kevin
at the time the amp was 289$ the subs where 250$ each, thats all i can find for links, and the rule of thumb for caps is 1k watts = 1 frad, so yeah,, but i never was a fan of cap's as the local car audio said to get one,, wast of money in my view but owell Information About Capacitors - CarAudioForum.com

as for my amp comes highly recommended in the car audio world

"Big 3" did all but alt cuz i couldnt find a good one lol http://www.caraudioforum.com/showthread.php?t=352271
 

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i dont know where you guys got 1000 watt amp from,,, im currently running

wired to 1 ohm @ 1200 watt rms..

then 2 feet of 4 gauge wire to the amp..

all in all 2400 watts max 1200 watt RMS,,lights dim at 12 volume, lights almost gone at 20 volume
1000 watt amp was what we call, AN EXAMPLE of what amps need.



From car audio website:

Re: Nakamichi pa-1500



The Nak amp is really efficient, it draws less power than my old Kenwood amp with twice the output. It does dim the lights slightly with it cranked and the bass turned up, but not much barely enough to notice. I am running a stock electrical system and have no problems running that amp and another 4x100 RMS amp, 1600 watts RMS together. You will like that amp! For the money, I dont think there is a better amp out there. JMO. Plenty of CLEAN power!


.
 

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I had a 150amp alternator from an w140 in my cabrio. Required different brackets, I think from a m103 based car to work on the m104 engine. Will post once I find the info. But I think it's on the site here somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
1000 watt amp was what we call, AN EXAMPLE of what amps need.



From car audio website:

Re: Nakamichi pa-1500



The Nak amp is really efficient, it draws less power than my old Kenwood amp with twice the output. It does dim the lights slightly with it cranked and the bass turned up, but not much barely enough to notice. I am running a stock electrical system and have no problems running that amp and another 4x100 RMS amp, 1600 watts RMS together. You will like that amp! For the money, I dont think there is a better amp out there. JMO. Plenty of CLEAN power!


.
no offense to the benz world but Mercedes have some of the lowest amp alts i've ever seen, its the first German car i've ever owned tho.. hell my moms 1980 olds cutless was a pos v6 with a 150 amp alt stock..
 

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if he's running that rig at 20, I don't think he can hear you.


note that 120A alternator probably can't deliver 120A at idle, it probably takes about 1500-2000 rpm before the alternator can reach its full output, below that and especially at idle, you're sucking that power off your battery.

120A at 12V is 1440 watts. which, btw, is about 1 horsepower, which has to be delivered to the amp via your serpentine belt, so don't be surprised if you go through belts and tensioners.

btw, 1200 watt RMS at 1 ohm is ..... 1200 VOLTS AC. holy crap. don't touch those speaker terminals or they'll be scrubbing your ashes off the headliner.
 

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at the time the amp was 289$ the subs where 250$ each, thats all i can find for links, and the rule of thumb for caps is 1k watts = 1 frad, so yeah,, but i never was a fan of cap's as the local car audio said to get one,, wast of money in my view but owell Information About Capacitors - CarAudioForum.com

as for my amp comes highly recommended in the car audio world

"Big 3" did all but alt cuz i couldnt find a good one lol Lights Dimming? Read this now "the big 3" - CarAudioForum.com
Look...car amps don't comply to a different god than home stereo amps. If you wanted to say, get 600 watts RMS per channel through 20Hz-20KHz with LOW distortion(inaudible), you'd start at about $1,500 and get as high as $15,000+ in SS(solid state). Car amps are nothing but compact PA amps. It's a whole other world, as you're only after maximum gain(volume) & exaggerated bass, not perfect music reproduction.

Something in your system is not Kosher, because a good cap would help with the load on your alt & battery.....even the literature that you linked to says so. If you're thinking caps are a waste of money with that amp draw, then you don't know as much as you think you know. Finding a 500amp Bosch alt is a ridiculous solution to your dilemma....your system is not that special or unique.....you're just trying to plug & play components from the Internet....nothing extraordinary has been designed specifically for your vehicle. For all we know, you're not even working with a Group 49 battery, or there's a load issue with your battery itself.

Given the foul language used in your 'Light dimming?' link sorta defeats the whole subject matter there. Nothing in there but his opinion and worded through foul language...I'm unimpressed. If he wants to be taken seriously, he can do better than that.

Kevin
 

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btw, 1200 watt RMS at 1 ohm is ..... 1200 VOLTS AC. holy crap. don't touch those speaker terminals or they'll be scrubbing your ashes off the headliner.
Actually, I think it's about 35 volts RMS at about 35 amps, assuming the amps internal switching power supplies can actually drive a 1 ohm load at rated power. Sub box tuning becomes critical with ultra-low impedance loads because improperly loaded speaker(s) can become "reactive" (in the circuit theory sense) and most gargantuan amps have little, if any, dynamic headroom to supply reactive current to the load. A friend of mine (who will be deaf at an early age) competes in "sound off" competitions and he spends a lot of time getting the part just right. A small change can be make it or break it on the SPL.
 

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if he's running that rig at 20, I don't think he can hear you.


note that 120A alternator probably can't deliver 120A at idle, it probably takes about 1500-2000 rpm before the alternator can reach its full output, below that and especially at idle, you're sucking that power off your battery.

120A at 12V is 1440 watts. which, btw, is about 1 horsepower, which has to be delivered to the amp via your serpentine belt, so don't be surprised if you go through belts and tensioners.

btw, 1200 watt RMS at 1 ohm is ..... 1200 VOLTS AC. holy crap. don't touch those speaker terminals or they'll be scrubbing your ashes off the headliner.
We don't know the Group size of the battery or the condition. The big cap should diffuse the issue of draining the battery while the alt tries to keep up...even at idle.

Kevin
 

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Look...car amps don't comply to a different god than home stereo amps. If you wanted to say, get 600 watts RMS per channel through 20Hz-20KHz with LOW distortion(inaudible), ...
well, this IS a subwoofer setup, that "1200 watts RMS" being pushed into a couple 2 ohm subs at 1 ohm effective, so the amp is probably only working with 20-120Hz. its more about rattling windows in the 'hood than anything resembling fidelity.

I loved that one spec page that said 4AWG power wiring and 16AWG speaker wiring. at 1200W into 1 ohm, those speaker cables should look more like arcwelding cable than lamp cord.
 

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Actually, I think it's about 35 volts RMS at about 35 amps, assuming the amps internal switching power supplies can actually drive a 1 ohm load at rated power. .
the 1200W RMS at 1 ohm was the spec of this amp per above discussion.

35 volts into 1 ohm would be 35 amps, and indeed 35V*35A ~= 1200W. ok, I should have run the math more carefully, hah. that speaker wire still needs to be a lot heavier than 16AWG.
 

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Actually, I think it's about 35 volts RMS at about 35 amps, assuming the amps internal switching power supplies can actually drive a 1 ohm load at rated power. Sub box tuning becomes critical with ultra-low impedance loads because improperly loaded speaker(s) can become "reactive" (in the circuit theory sense) and most gargantuan amps have little, if any, dynamic headroom to supply reactive current to the load. A friend of mine (who will be deaf at an early age) competes in "sound off" competitions and he spends a lot of time getting the part just right. A small change can be make it or break it on the SPL.
Low impedance loads like 1 ohm are difficult for any SS amp to handle. And like you said, I doubt his car amp has any dynamic headroom to handle that load at full gain. What happens a lot in these boom-boom systems is that there are mismatches in components. And rather than figure out the 'why' of it, they just substitute in other components until eventually, something works.

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Actually, I think it's about 35 volts RMS at about 35 amps, assuming the amps internal switching power supplies can actually drive a 1 ohm load at rated power. Sub box tuning becomes critical with ultra-low impedance loads because improperly loaded speaker(s) can become "reactive" (in the circuit theory sense) and most gargantuan amps have little, if any, dynamic headroom to supply reactive current to the load. A friend of mine (who will be deaf at an early age) competes in "sound off" competitions and he spends a lot of time getting the part just right. A small change can be make it or break it on the SPL.
34.64v :) and my amp is set at 34v
 

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well, this IS a subwoofer setup, that "1200 watts RMS" being pushed into a couple 2 ohm subs at 1 ohm effective, so the amp is probably only working with 20-120Hz. its more about rattling windows in the 'hood than anything resembling fidelity.

I loved that one spec page that said 4AWG power wiring and 16AWG speaker wiring. at 1200W into 1 ohm, those speaker cables should look more like arcwelding cable than lamp cord.
16 AWG wire is cheap lamp cord. That's the point...there are little, verifiable electronic axioms going into these systems. More word of mouth than anything. Any good EE would laugh at what's been said about these system and what 'solutions' are given and especially the car audio 'theory' part. It's a real low-brow industry all around. Did you read the 'light dimming?' link he provided?

Kevin
 

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... For all we know, you're not even working with a Group 49 battery, or there's a load issue with your battery itself.

...
+100. A Bosch group 49 batt or better is the minimum here.

As I said in post #2, somebody wants to turn their W124 into a club on wheels. A car is the WORST place to sample sound, and I'll always stick to that.

You wanna hear it loud while out and about??? Get a good set of can type headphones (Sennheiser or even Beats Audio), grab your iPod/iPhone, install a Boostaroo inline amp and go blow your ears out.

Headphone Amplifiers | Sound Amplifiers | Audio Splitters
 

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+100. A Bosch group 49 batt or better is the minimum here.

As I said in post #2, somebody wants to turn their W124 into a club on wheels. A car is the WORST place to sample sound, and I'll always stick to that.

You wanna hear it loud while out and about??? Get a good set of can type headphones (Sennheiser or even Beats Audio), grab your iPod/iPhone, install a Boostaroo inline amp and go blow your ears out.

Headphone Amplifiers | Sound Amplifiers | Audio Splitters
You can get arrested in some states for wearing visible headphones and driving. Not sure in WA...don't care, would never do it anyway...I have enough grief with seat belt fines. WA is supposed to fine now for talking on a cell phone while driving. Kinda tough to enforce when your local cops do it though.:rolleyes:

Kevin
 

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I loved that one spec page that said 4AWG power wiring and 16AWG speaker wiring. at 1200W into 1 ohm, those speaker cables should look more like arcwelding cable than lamp cord.
That is right from the RockfordFosgate website, the recommended installation kit page for a $700 1000 watt amp.

This is the 124 technical forum, not "audio world"

The alternator question was asked and answered, 200 amps max for a Bosch.
Though not necessary or requires with a properly installed system

My Z28 system was "only" 1250 watts total, but was a $4000 installed system. Stock alternator and battery.

Maybe the OP should try this sub forum instead.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/audio-telematics-forum/
 

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I have a 2011 E350 AMG Cabriolet. My upgraded audio system is: A 370 amp alt with 1/0 power and ground wires (big 3 upgrade), stock radio, 2-Orion xtr2500.1Dz amps (strapped) to 2-12'' Audio Pipe subwoofers that are 2200 watts each. 2-Limitless Lithium 25ah batteries and a full carbon fiber dynomatted trunk....5000 watts in the AMG.! I love heavy bass like a crackhead loves coke.!
;
 

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if he's running that rig at 20, I don't think he can hear you.


note that 120A alternator probably can't deliver 120A at idle, it probably takes about 1500-2000 rpm before the alternator can reach its full output, below that and especially at idle, you're sucking that power off your battery.

120A at 12V is 1440 watts. which, btw, is about 1 horsepower, which has to be delivered to the amp via your serpentine belt, so don't be surprised if you go through belts and tensioners.

btw, 1200 watt RMS at 1 ohm is ..... 1200 VOLTS AC. holy crap. don't touch those speaker terminals or they'll be scrubbing your ashes off the headliner.
 

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Go through belts and tentioners.! I hate when people run their mouth with their "opinion". I had 3000 watts in a 97 Saab SE turbo for 3 yrs. i had a 250a upgraded alt, big 3, with a 5uf cap, and 5 extra batteries and never ever had to replace a serpentine belt because of my system The trick in any audio system is to have amps that put out a lot of power, then subs that can handle that power, and finally with the heart of power supply being the alternator it has to supply the amps demand for juice. This just your basic primis of what needs to be in place.However if your system is lacking one of these variables then yes your horsepower in your engine will suffer.
 
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