[manonegraweb]

I am getting the exact same issue that I had 5 years ago.. my ml320 started fine on Sunday morning , I needed to do a stop and 10 minutes later the truck didn't start on the first attempt, on the 2nd attempt it worked.. later when I arrived to my destination and when I wanted to start it again it didn't, I just hear a clicking sound, I bought a new battery because the old one has precisely 5 years, and the same thing , It has been very rainy recently not sure if this has to do with the issue, I tried to started in Neutral (no luck), I jumped K8 and no crank just a click (that sounds like a spark when the hood is open).

I need your help, what I can check before thinking of replacements (the last time I replaced the starter but at the end I wasn't sure that this was the issue), the post terminals look fine, I have a voltimeter what I can check.

I know that there is a new post with a "similar" issue, but my truck doesn't hear "CLAK CLAK CLAK" is just one click.

Thanks

 

[DrX]

It doesn't matter if they look fine, you have to remove the connector, clean the corrosion off the inside and the terminal post, then reconnect tightly.

 

[43sqd]

After you check the battery posts, perform this test.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class/1659349-2001-ml-320-wont-turn-over.html#post5308268

 

[manonegraweb]

Thanks!! I have replicated the same steps with no luck, after jumping k8 no crank is heard, the key fortunately blinks at pos 2 and all the lights are coming on the dashboard, next step I guess is to check the current with a voltimeter..

 

[43sqd]

It appears that you have a connection problem or a starter problem.

Remove the right front wheel and wheel liner and the starter will be visible.

1. check for corrosion at the braided ground wire. If so the starter must be replaced. If not.........

2. check for battery voltage at the large stud.

3. have someone turn the key to the start position while you test the smaller stud for battery voltage. If not then you have an ignition problem. If there is then replace the starter.

 

[dkveuro]

................ issue........................ issue, "similar" issue, [UNQUOTE]


First of all, you have a problem. Sooner we all start using the word 'problem' for a problem, the quicker we will be able to solve it. Why? Because there are many like me who think the use of 'issue' is incorrect, pretentious and " Who are you trying not to offend." and we skip on by when someone uses "Issue" to describe a problem.

Having said that, let me address your problem. Due to the heavy Amp draw on the starter circuit, the following should be checked as you seem to realize....

1/ Voltage check across the battery post while the key is in the KOEC position.
You should have above 10.5 volts otherwise the ECM will respond with: 'Denied Start."

2/ It appears you have more than enough voltage in the KOEC position so this chattering indicates the ECM is allowing cranking but the amps are too low or there is a resistance in the circuit, not allowing the amps to reach the starter. This also rules out the Ignition Key, common pattern failure.

3/ Voltage at the starter should be above 11 vdc on the wire that the solenoid uses to shunt power to the starter. If YES ....the solenoid is closing ...or in your case , clicking..indicating voltage when requesting crank engine.

4/ Jump the power past the solenoid to the starter strap and see if starter turns....it may just spin as solenoid has not pushed dog into ring gear.

5/ If starter spins jumping the solenoid, the solenoid may by faulty. Solenoids are difficult to find on their own so a replacement stater may be in order.

Have seen many starter motors with weak brush springs cause commutator arching burning segments on commutator. If starter stops in position where brushes are sitting on a burnt segment, starter will not turn. and if there is a short in the starter motor the voltage drop will cause an amp fluctuation giving you the click you hear.

Which is why you must check voltage after the starter solenoid . A good solenoid clicks but you don't hear it over the starter engaging. A voltage check as above may help narrow down the problem.

If the fault is still not identified, post what you know so we can go from there. and post too if the problem is corrected and how you corrected it.


regards,

 

[manonegraweb]

Hi dkveuro, I am sorry to not use the term "Problem", some background I want you to hear, I am an IT guy and have been working for US global companies for more than 6 years, all the communication we do is in English and nobody uses the term "Problem" on our day by day, you may ask why??? because we don't want to pretend that we want to "magnify" things, I agree with you that this is more a problem than an issue since we don't know the solution right away but at least there was confidence that with all you guys help this will be resolved soon... and that is what happened!!

Thanks to all!! it was a loose wire but not an external one, a cable inside the starter (solenoid to be more specific) was completely corroded ... I saved big buck because buying the OEM starter costs around $350 USD plus labor..

With all your advise we were able to isolate the problem on the solenoid (after the starter made a sound after jumping the solenoid), that was a great suggestion.

thanks Again

................ issue........................ issue, "similar" issue, [UNQUOTE]


First of all, you have a problem. Sooner we all start using the word 'problem' for a problem, the quicker we will be able to solve it. Why? Because there are many like me who think the use of 'issue' is incorrect, pretentious and " Who are you trying not to offend." and we skip on by when someone uses "Issue" to describe a problem.

Having said that, let me address your problem. Due to the heavy Amp draw on the starter circuit, the following should be checked as you seem to realize....

1/ Voltage check across the battery post while the key is in the KOEC position.
You should have above 10.5 volts otherwise the ECM will respond with: 'Denied Start."

2/ It appears you have more than enough voltage in the KOEC position so this chattering indicates the ECM is allowing cranking but the amps are too low or there is a resistance in the circuit, not allowing the amps to reach the starter. This also rules out the Ignition Key, common pattern failure.

3/ Voltage at the starter should be above 11 vdc on the wire that the solenoid uses to shunt power to the starter. If YES ....the solenoid is closing ...or in your case , clicking..indicating voltage when requesting crank engine.

4/ Jump the power past the solenoid to the starter strap and see if starter turns....it may just spin as solenoid has not pushed dog into ring gear.

5/ If starter spins jumping the solenoid, the solenoid may by faulty. Solenoids are difficult to find on their own so a replacement stater may be in order.

Have seen many starter motors with weak brush springs cause commutator arching burning segments on commutator. If starter stops in position where brushes are sitting on a burnt segment, starter will not turn. and if there is a short in the starter motor the voltage drop will cause an amp fluctuation giving you the click you hear.

Which is why you must check voltage after the starter solenoid . A good solenoid clicks but you don't hear it over the starter engaging. A voltage check as above may help narrow down the problem.

If the fault is still not identified, post what you know so we can go from there. and post too if the problem is corrected and how you corrected it.


regards,

 

[Cinnasnootzer]

Issue = situation = problem.