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Discussion Starter #1
My fan stopped blowing completely out of the blue so i decided to do a DTC readout :
Values:
1 E
2 67
3 58
4 60
5 55
6 145
7 03
8 51
Error codes:
Eb1226, Eb1228, Eb1229, Eb1230, Eb1232, Eb1233, Eb1234, Eb1235, Eb1422
E Class Benz AC Diagnosis
# Your refrigerant pressure is reading a bit low (03 bar). This probably means that you're low on refrigerant. Your should get a recharge. Since your EC light is not permanently lit, it means the pressure hasn't yet dropped far enough to force the A/C compressor to shut off. Note that Mercedes air conditioning systems use variable pressure to provide the appropriate level of cooling as needed. This is helpful for fuel economy. But it makes it impossible to know for certain how much refrigerant is in the system based on pressure alone.
# Often you can tell you're low on refrigerant by a hissing noise coming out of the center vents. The hissing is the sound of the refrigerant rapidly expanding to fill the evaporator. This only makes noise when you're low on refrigerant. Do you hear this hissing noise?
# Code B1226 Explanation: This sensor measures the temperature inside your car. It is reporting an implausible temperature. The sensor is located behind the small vent near your cabin light switches in front of the sunroof.
# Code B1228 Explanation: This sensor measures the temperature in the left side heater core. It is reporting an implausible temperature or voltage reading.
# Code B1229 Explanation: This sensor measures the temperature in the right side heater core. It is reporting an implausible temperature or voltage reading.
# Code B1230 Explanation: This sensor measures the temperature of your air conditioner evaporator. It is reporting an implausible temperature.
# Code B1232 Explanation: This sensor measures the pressure of the refrigerant in the A/C system. It appears to be malfunctioning. If this sensor is defective, you may be able to turn your A/C back on by overriding it.
# Code B1233 Explanation: This sensor measures the temperature of the refrigerant in the A/C system. If the refrigerant gets too hot, the A/C shuts off to avoid damaging the system. The sensor appears to be malfunctioning.
# Code B1234 Explanation: This sensor detects strong sunlight and increases the fan speed slightly to compensate for solar gain. The sensor is located in the middle of the dash near the windshield. This sensor is not critical. Its failure would not interfere with normal A/C function.
# Code B1235 Explanation: This sensor is intended specifically for anyone living near LA. :) It detects smog in the air and automatically switches to recirculation mode and switches on the activated charcoal cabin filter until the pollution levels drop. This sensor is not critical. Its failure does not interfere with normal A/C function, unless you happen to drive your car inside a smokestack
So what can I be expecting to do? Am I worried for nothing? Am I going to have to replace the malfunctioning sensors or is it a bit more than that?
Any advice is greatly appreciated :bowdown:
 

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The motor needn't be changed unless it is bad. It is quite expensive.

There is a 140 regulator that is available and is electrically identical to the outdated 210 part. You have to splice in the wires from your old regulator to use the 140 part.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
okay but why does it come on some times, i just came in from playing around and looking around under the pasenger side footwell to get familiar with it and i kept pressing the defroster on and off, then it came on for a short period of time and eventually just shut off then after that i cudnt get it to come back on again, so i am guessing that the regulator hasnt quite crapped the bed yet but its on its way? i looked up the 140 part via mbworld's blower diy
im starting to quickly lose enthusiasm for my car, seems like its always something popping up :mad:
 

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Clear all those error

codes in the cc diagnostics by running the diagnostics in error mode and when in error mode press both auto buttons at the same time.Then wait a few hours and run the tests again per the node 27 diagnostic program that Lex an old forum member did the software program.
See what codes come back and sometimes clearing that many errors trip the system back into operation.
If blower still does not work you can put power to it to check the operation.Diy is in the diy section at the top of the forum.
:bowdown:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
already cleared em, ill run the test again soon, ill probably have to check out the blower and test it tomorrow because its already dark and i have some things to take care of
Thanks for the insight guys
 
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