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1998 Mercedes’ Benz c280 Sport
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 98 c280 won’t start! There was absolutely no sound when turning the key and check engine light is now on. Then the next day I tried and there was no power. Tried to jump it and it clicked and clicked but didn’t start. Replaced the alternator today and now it’s back to silent when I try to start it. Going to check fuses tomorrow. What could it be???
 

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2000 C230 Kompressor Sedan
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88 Posts
Hmmm... Have you checked the battery with a meter? If not the battery then my next best guess would be the starter itself. I don't it's a fuse but possibly a relay perhaps though I'd be more inclined to think the starter is the culprit especially if it's the original from the factory.
 

· W163 and General M Gremlin
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Now why would you throw parts and replace the alternator without going thru a proper simple checklist.
First thing that comes to mind, after your post is the battery.
Check the battery V at the terminals. Before starrting, during start.
Post the V readings.

example:
A reading of 12.65-12.77 volts means your battery has a full charge. 12.45-12.54 volts means you have a 75% charge, 12.24-12.29 is 50% charged, and 11.99-12.06 volts is 25% charged. 11.75-11.89 volts means your battery is dead.
 

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00' E320, 03' E320T, 05' C230K
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· W163 and General M Gremlin
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It seems there's a lot more (unknown) history here that hasn't been revealed/posted.
Informing readers of details after (ie. battery V when asked) leads those to assist you, on a tangent.
You think it read 12.25V?
Either it is or it isn't.
My humble suggestion is lay the cards on the table and provide 'history' of what issues you had previously, what else you've attempted to do to (ie. why replace the alternator? reason?), etc.

Only info readers have is:
no sound (ie: no click or starter not turning over (ie. no crank) and a CEL.
Replaced the alternator.

Scan and post any saved codes.
 

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1998 Mercedes’ Benz c280 Sport
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12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
A FatMax is a battery jumper that also displays voltage and checks the alternator. That said the alternator was bad and my buddy who knows cars also suggested it could be the alternator as well so I replaced it. I don’t know much about the mechanics of vehicles. I basically get help to diagnose the issue and then I YouTube how to replace the part. I’ve only had the c280 for a few months and have had no issues. Drove it literally one block, shut it off for 5 minutes to go in the store, and when I came out and tried to start it I got no sound at all. Electronics still worked at that point. But the following day when I tried to start it, even the dash lights wouldn’t light up and the key wouldn’t turn. Tried to jump it off a F-150 and it made a clicking sound. Figured it was the alternator (mainly because the FatMax said my alternator was bad). I’ve done some searching online and from what I gathered it could be the alternator, starter, and/or battery. Would it make sense that the alternator WAS bad and in turn also killed the battery so both should be replaced?
 

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2000 C230 Kompressor Sedan
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88 Posts
Hi Travatree,
Just a few simple pieces of info that will give you a rudimentary understanding of the basics of a car's electrical system. The battery STORES the electrical energy that is needed to start the car. The alternator CREATES electricity while the car is running (and only when it is running). It alternates current between the car's consumables (ie the things that are consuming electricity while the car is running) and also directs any excess current back to the battery - thus recharging the battery. But again, this process only occurs while the car is running. Now, batteries, like everything else in life, lose their potency over time. Batteries go through repeated cycles of charging and discharging and, eventually over time they lose their ability to take a full charge - hence why batteries in everything from watches to cars eventually have to be replaced. Your battery may or may not have had it's installation date marked on it - many batteries have little stickers on them that get removed. The removed stickers represent the year, month and day the battery was installed. But sadly many don't bother with this old-school practice and just install a battery without taking this crucial step. If you are able to somehow determine the battery and find that it is anywhere near 5 years of age or older then I'd recommend possibly replacing the battery - but not without testing its amperage rating first (as another respondent suggested). No point in changing things unless you're certain they are definitely in need of changing.

Now, here's the rub... If, in fact, your alternator isn't putting out enough current that would result in the car utilizing the battery's stored electricity to help run the car. As a result of this deficit even a good battery will eventually get depleted because it isn't being recharged (ie the alternator isn't doing its job).

I concur with the earlier poster that advised you to check not just the voltage but the AMPERAGE of the battery as well. Even if the voltage is 12 volts or above, there could be insufficient AMPERAGE to start the car. To further complicate this: If the alternator is, in fact, bad then it's not been charging your battery when the car is running. This could cause even a good battery to fail. So moral of the story is get a good battery tester - or utilize a friend's - and test both voltage and amperage of the battery. If the battery is under 5 years old then it may be worth it just to take the battery out and give it to a mechanic or a friend with a battery charger. Let them re-charge the battery and then reinstall it and then retest the battery again. But if the battery is 5 years of age or older I would simply replace the battery altogether - especially if you plan on keeping the car and or plan on using it as an every day driver. If you decide to put a new battery in - make sure to remove the old one and bring it with you to whichever auto parts store from which you plan to buy the new one. Doing this will help you avoid what is referred to as a 'core charge' as well as save you an extra trip back to the auto parts store with the old battery.

Personally, I'd pull the battery and have it charged professionally and then see if the car starts. If it doesn't then it's likely the starter.

I hope this helps.
 

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00' E320, 03' E320T, 05' C230K
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Hi Travatree,
Just a few simple pieces of info that will give you a rudimentary understanding of the basics of a car's electrical system. The battery STORES the electrical energy that is needed to start the car. The alternator CREATES electricity while the car is running (and only when it is running). It alternates current between the car's consumables (ie the things that are consuming electricity while the car is running) and also directs any excess current back to the battery - thus recharging the battery. But again, this process only occurs while the car is running. Now, batteries, like everything else in life, lose their potency over time. Batteries go through repeated cycles of charging and discharging and, eventually over time they lose their ability to take a full charge - hence why batteries in everything from watches to cars eventually have to be replaced. Your battery may or may not have had it's installation date marked on it - many batteries have little stickers on them that get removed. The removed stickers represent the year, month and day the battery was installed. But sadly many don't bother with this old-school practice and just install a battery without taking this crucial step. If you are able to somehow determine the battery and find that it is anywhere near 5 years of age or older then I'd recommend possibly replacing the battery - but not without testing its amperage rating first (as another respondent suggested). No point in changing things unless you're certain they are definitely in need of changing.

Now, here's the rub... If, in fact, your alternator isn't putting out enough current that would result in the car utilizing the battery's stored electricity to help run the car. As a result of this deficit even a good battery will eventually get depleted because it isn't being recharged (ie the alternator isn't doing its job).

I concur with the earlier poster that advised you to check not just the voltage but the AMPERAGE of the battery as well. Even if the voltage is 12 volts or above, there could be insufficient AMPERAGE to start the car. To further complicate this: If the alternator is, in fact, bad then it's not been charging your battery when the car is running. This could cause even a good battery to fail. So moral of the story is get a good battery tester - or utilize a friend's - and test both voltage and amperage of the battery. If the battery is under 5 years old then it may be worth it just to take the battery out and give it to a mechanic or a friend with a battery charger. Let them re-charge the battery and then reinstall it and then retest the battery again. But if the battery is 5 years of age or older I would simply replace the battery altogether - especially if you plan on keeping the car and or plan on using it as an every day driver. If you decide to put a new battery in - make sure to remove the old one and bring it with you to whichever auto parts store from which you plan to buy the new one. Doing this will help you avoid what is referred to as a 'core charge' as well as save you an extra trip back to the auto parts store with the old battery.

Personally, I'd pull the battery and have it charged professionally and then see if the car starts. If it doesn't then it's likely the starter.

I hope this helps.
Very well explained (y)
 

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1998 Mercedes’ Benz c280 Sport
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12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So update…. After replacing the alternator i tried to start it and it make a soft clicking sound. Probably 5-6 quick clicks and then nothing. Was told that if my alternator was bad before then the car ran on just the battery and probably killed it. Replaced the battery tonight and same thing. 5-6 soft, quick in succession, clicks and then nothing. Any ideas? I’ve been told by a couple of mechanic friends that it was either the battery (which I tried and failed) or it could be the starter. What do you guys think? Do these symptoms reflect a bad starter? Should I replace it this weekend or do you think it’s something else? Please give me any advice. I’m trying not to have to pay a a tow truck to tow it to a mechanic and then pay the mechanic hundreds of dollars if there’sa chance it’s something I can fix myself. I’ma family man with bills. My summer job (April-November) pays amazing and i I would have just brought it to the mechanic but my winter gig pays shit so money is tight. Trying to fix my daily driver for the least amount of money possible. Reach out and let me know what you think. Thanks guys!
 

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I'm working on a friend's C280 (95 vintage) now that has a similar problem. Turn key, some clicks, nothing definite, and no click at all from the starter or solenoid.
I think I found the issue. The wiring that runs from the inside of the left fender to the side of the engine and back to the neutral safety switch is completely decayed. All of the insulation on all 5 terminals (one wire goes round the back of the tranny... not sure where yet) is completely dust. What's left crumbles in my fingers, and all the conductors are bare, some are completely severed. "That'll do it!". I got here by first trying to see if any juice was getting to starter's soleniod when the key was turned... no glow on my jerry-rigged test light. Now I know why. I am first going to try jumpering the start wires, defeating the neutral safety switch. If that doesn't help, then I have to figure out where it gets its 'juice' from.

Elsewhere on this forum I found an old post stating that wiring harnesses on these were a big issue for this vintage. Don't know if yours also falls into that vintage or not.

Good luck! Hope it is not as cold where you are as it is here, or you have somewhere warm to work on your ride.
 

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1998 Mercedes’ Benz c280 Sport
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm working on a friend's C280 (95 vintage) now that has a similar problem. Turn key, some clicks, nothing definite, and no click at all from the starter or solenoid.
I think I found the issue. The wiring that runs from the inside of the left fender to the side of the engine and back to the neutral safety switch is completely decayed. All of the insulation on all 5 terminals (one wire goes round the back of the tranny... not sure where yet) is completely dust. What's left crumbles in my fingers, and all the conductors are bare, some are completely severed. "That'll do it!". I got here by first trying to see if any juice was getting to starter's soleniod when the key was turned... no glow on my jerry-rigged test light. Now I know why. I am first going to try jumpering the start wires, defeating the neutral safety switch. If that doesn't help, then I have to figure out where it gets its 'juice' from.

Elsewhere on this forum I found an old post stating that wiring harnesses on these were a big issue for this vintage. Don't know if yours also falls into that vintage or not.

Good luck! Hope it is not as cold where you are as it is here, or you have somewhere warm to work on your ride.
Actually I’m in Maine so like the day I put in the alternator it’s was about 20 degrees lol. Not ideal for working on a car outside.😬
 

· W163 and General M Gremlin
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I'm working on a friend's C280 (95 vintage) now that has a similar problem. Turn key, some clicks, nothing definite, and no click at all from the starter or solenoid.
....

Elsewhere on this forum I found an old post stating that wiring harnesses on these were a big issue for this vintage. Don't know if yours also falls into that vintage or not.

Good luck! Hope it is not as cold where you are as it is here, or you have somewhere warm to work on your ride.
98s were not infected with eco-crap wiring.
Across the board, up to 96.
 
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1998 Mercedes’ Benz c280 Sport
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Also, does anyone know where the starter is located on a 98 c280? When I changed the alternator I didn’t see it anywhere. I tried looking online and couldn’t find any info or diagram that shows the location of the starter. Would I have to approach it from the underside of the car? Thinking of trying to give the starter a couple of taps with a mallet/hammer while trying to turn the key. Thoughts?
 

· W163 and General M Gremlin
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Community Search, at the top of the page, or Google with key word search.
 
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2000 C230 Kompressor Sedan
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I suspected it was the starter. Good that you're doing all your homework. I've got a 2000 C230 with only 88K on the odometer and still running the original starter....holding my breath. But like you I had to replace the alternator last year albeit I got lucky - mine died during the warmer summer months. I'm in CT and have spent many winters up in Maine (Old Orchard Beach). You're absolutely right - not the greatest time of year to be working outdoors up there. Anyway - keep us all posted on your progress. I'd be interested to see if the new starter fixes the problem (or not). Good luck (and stay warm...as much as possible anyway).
 
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