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1995 E320, 1998 E300 Turbodiesel, 1999 E320 4M Wagon, 2001 E320
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Discussion Starter #1
I have been reading about doing the mounts on my 1995 E320 for some time and am ready to tackle the job. The one step that always makes me nervous though is jacking up the engine/oil pan. The consensus around here is to use a piece of wood on top of the floor jack, but I still think that the pressure of the wood pushing up on the oil pan will dent it. I can almost imagine the sides of the pan being crushed in by the force of the 2X4.

Can somebody describe exactly how I should set up the wood on the jack so I don't end up with a damaged oil pan. Thanks in advance!
 

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'87 300TD/'90 300D/'94 Quattro/'89 Vanagon TDI/'01 EV Weekender VR6
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Jack up the front of the car (using the cross-member) and place it on jackstands. Now you can use a large piece of 2x6 to spread the force uniformly along the oilpan to gently lift the engine up, once you've loosened the engine mount--do one side at a time. Using that technique, you're just lifting the engine, not the whole car.
 

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I would never do that job with the car on jackstands. I put the tires up on ramps or blocks. I raise all four tires about six inches so that there's less angle to the engine when you raise it. I use 3/4" plywood for the oil pan, full size of the pan, and then build a front and rear lip on to it so that it won't slide out. Once the engine is raised I also put a screw type jackstand under the plywood as well, just for redundancy. WalMart RV levelers work well for that.
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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Do it rightfor once and use the lift points on the engine-rent a cherry picker...put the hood in the service position. Just pray you never have to do the driver's engine mount on a 4matic.:rolleyes:

Kevin
 

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1995 E320, 1998 E300 Turbodiesel, 1999 E320 4M Wagon, 2001 E320
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77 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Where are the lift points?

Just FMI...where are the lift points on the M104. I didn't know if there was a consensus as to where to safely lift the engine if I were to use a cherry picker.

Also...what would be the problem with using jackstands...very unstable given the amount of force needed to budge the motor mount bolts?

Thanks for the feedback. I am not concerned with the mount job as much as preparing the car to do the mount job :rolleyes:
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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Just FMI...where are the lift points on the M104. I didn't know if there was a consensus as to where to safely lift the engine if I were to use a cherry picker.

Also...what would be the problem with using jackstands...very unstable given the amount of force needed to budge the motor mount bolts?

Thanks for the feedback. I am not concerned with the mount job as much as preparing the car to do the mount job :rolleyes:
Don't have a working cell/camera to upload pics, but the brackets are clearly visible on the back and front of the head. Look for pieces of metal sticking up with holes. Mine's a m103, but I doubt they changed the brackets much in the m104. You can buy a cheap engine lift harness assembly that adjust from front to back.:rolleyes:

Kevin
 

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There seems to be a lot of paranoia about these aluminum oil pans. They're actually quite stout. If you strike them with a lot of force (like a speed bump or road debris), they'll crack, but they can easily handle the weight of the engine as long as the load is distributed.
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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There seems to be a lot of paranoia about these aluminum oil pans. They're actually quite stout. If you strike them with a lot of force (like a speed bump or road debris), they'll crack, but they can easily handle the weight of the engine as long as the load is distributed.
Agreed, they are quite stout. But it always irks me that if someone has the time, space and inclination, why not do it the correct way with a cherry picker and the engine lift brackets? Always the advice here is to attack the pan.:eek: Invariably, someone will not support the pan with the wrong amount of padding/wood and break and/or warp the pan causing a leak. Do you think most trained MB mechanics are jacking the pan up with wood?

Kevin
 

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I suppose most MB techs would use a vehicle lift and hoist combo. But, even though I have a engine hoist, I honestly don't think I'd bother with it, since the legs would get in the way of my maneuvering around underneath the car. I don't know about the gassers, but this is about a 15 min per side job on the diesels; not exactly brain science.
 

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I suppose most MB techs would use a vehicle lift and hoist combo. But, even though I have a engine hoist, I honestly don't think I'd bother with it, since the legs would get in the way of my maneuvering around underneath the car. I don't know about the gassers, but this is about a 15 min per side job on the diesels; not exactly brain science.
The passenger side is about a 15 minute job, but the driver's side is about a 45 minute job on the gassers. :(
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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I would think as 'moderator' you would say something like this; The best way to do the engine mounts is to use a cherry-picker with legs that slide under the vehicle, an adjustable engine removal bracket device, placing the engine hood in the service position and using the two engine lifting links provided by MB.

Then....if the owners don't have the time, space or inclination to do the job correctly, you could steer them towards the pan method. Just because most weekend warriors use the pan method, it's not really a technique to aspire to. And yeah, you'd would have had a real tough time getting the driver's mount out with your method and the 4matic system. Your "not exactly brain science" comment notwithstanding.

Kevin
 

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I'm not all that invested in any particular method folks opt to use for this relatively minor task. But I do want to add one caveat; do not under any circumstance place the jack under the pan and attempt to lift the entire front of the car.
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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And yet you keep saying things like "minor task" and "not exactly brain science". The driver's mount is not easy on a gasser and doubly difficult on a 4matic gasser. It's not a matter of intelligence, but one of accessibility and obviously, all the models aren't equal.

Kevin.
 

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Ok, so feel free to walk folks through the steps needed to fulfill this task on the gasser and 4Matic models. I'm rather poorly equipped to do so, since I've never worked on those units. Even so, I'm struggling to see what that has to do with the choice to use a jack under the pan, or a hoist, though.
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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As I've mentioned here many times before, I don't have a way to take and upload pics to this site-so shoot me. It's an exercise in futility to walk anybody through this without pics. The advantage in using a cherry-picker with that engine lift adjustment device, is that you can transfer weight to the front of the motor in any degree you want, at your discretion-because it's adjustable that way. You don't get that luxury by just jacking up the pan. You'd understand what I was saying if you had done this with a cherry-picker & the lift device.

The 4matic is almost hopeless because the mount sits directly over the half shaft; I had to take the motor mount bracket off (at the motor), with the mount attached, turn it sideways and pry the old mount/bracket out of a smaller space. Putting the bracket back in place with a new mount presented more problems, because a new mount is a third taller than the old. Taller=less space. Another solution would have been to remove the starter and/or the half shaft-one reason MB mechanics get a zillion dollars for this repair on a 4matic.

I'm not going to argue it anymore, think what you want, do what you want, I don't care.

Kevin
 

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That sounds like a real solid argument for using a different lifting/adjusting solution for the 4Matics that may or may not be as necessary for the other models.

For the diesels, it's just a matter of loosening the engine mount bolts, lifting the engine, removing the old mounts and sliding in the new units. For other models, there may be additional steps and techniques.
 

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1998 E320, 2005 e320
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motor mounts

Jack up the front of the car (using the cross-member) and place it on jackstands. Now you can use a large piece of 2x6 to spread the force uniformly along the oilpan to gently lift the engine up, once you've loosened the engine mount--do one side at a time. Using that technique, you're just lifting the engine, not the whole car.
I will agree on this.The pan is aluminum I believe, so it won't cave in. I just did both mounts on my 98 E320 and using 2x6 works just fine.As for access, I did have to remove the a/c compressor on the drivers side, just needs to slide fwd a bit, no lines need to be removed. On the the pass. side, the alternator,mainly for the removal of the top bolt.The mount can actually slide out towards the rear unlike the drivers side. All Data has you remove clutch fan, pulley etc.for removal of the alt. just take out the two bolts and use a vice grip on the bushings and the alt. should drop out of the support bracket and you are ready to remove the mounts.:) Don't forget to remove the two wires and belt that go to the alternator.Good luck.
Jeff
 
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