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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, I have posted on here before, thanks for all the help
I have a 03 clk500 I purchased for $1500 CAD you can assume it’s in rough shape. Not body wise or power train.. the engine and tranny are strong and the car only has 125,000km and the interior and exterior is beautiful.. the problem is obviously electrical...
It was actually “alright” until I brought it to Mercedes Benz to get a new key because I lost the old one. They made me a new key and re programmed the key. I show up the car had no rear lights anymore.. as I first started it when I first arrived at the dealership and tried the key for the trunk (I was standing at the back) the trunk wouldn’t open. And the little red light on the key wouldn’t come on.. it would come on for the lock and unlock but not the trunk. No rear lights flashed but the driver reverse light was on and as I stood behind it it slowly faded died. Now none of the rear lights work.
I can start it drive it and the turn signals come on in the front but not the back. I assume the rear Sam module has fried??
How do I get in the trunk......
No the blade does NOT work. At all causes so no that’s out of the option trust me IVE TRIED EVERYTHING with that damn lock cylinder and it won’t work..
Please tell me I don’t have to ruin my car.

The car also has like 30 other codes.. it was a wreck multiple times. I’m just trying to get it “somewhat right”
I wish I was near some of you so we could make it ALL right. Really I bet it’s not hard..

The car always dies. I assume the Sam modules are drawing power?

Any help given I appreciate!!!!



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Discussion Starter #2
Also.. the inside trunk button does not work. The red light does not aluminate.


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2004 CLK 240 Coupe
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11,377 Posts
"How do I get in the trunk......
No the blade does NOT work. At all causes so no that’s out of the option trust me IVE TRIED EVERYTHING with that damn lock cylinder and it won’t work..
Please tell me I don’t have to ruin my car"

Most times members report that the mechanical key does not work at the trunk they are not using it correctly. There is no electrical action involved there.
The key should be turned counter-clockwise at the same time as the trunk latch handle is lifted. Is the key turning at all? If not try some key lock lubrication.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey Keyhole, you had me going for a minute! I went to try it but unfortunately no I can not get it to move either way and the handle moves free like it’s locked..of course. What do I do now? As long as I can get into the trunk I can worry about the lights myself I assume this is ALL a rear Sam issue.
The vehicle went for key programming and all the rear lights worked. I showed up and had no signals and no brake lights and one reverse light.


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2006 CLK 350 Coupe with 155000km
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Not sure if the dealers have keycutting facilities. My car didn't have a spare key and when I had one programmed the manual key was not cut (and it still is not cut). Note to self - have it done tomorrow at a good locksmith...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Not sure if the dealers have keycutting facilities. My car didn't have a spare key and when I had one programmed the manual key was not cut (and it still is not cut). Note to self - have it done tomorrow at a good locksmith...
they cut me a new blade as well. They had to order it in.


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2004 CLK 240 Coupe
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I can not get it to move either way and the handle moves free like it’s locked..of course. What do I do now?
Sounds like the lock has seized/rusted up. Does this mechanical key unlock the driver's door?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes it does, the rear lock cylinder looks tampered with as well


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2004 CLK 240 Coupe
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Like most W209 problems reported here, this issue will have been discussed before and he thread should be in the forum archives somewhere. The Search facility here ought to give a solution as I can recall a poster with exactly this problem years ago and his eventual cure. I think that he had to drill out the lock! Try using 'key words' Trunk and lock. Years from 2006 to 2019 for model 209 CLK. However, these searches are very time-consuming.

Before getting out your drill, try several injections of WD40 into the trunk lock via the keyhole. Also, have somebody press downwards on the trunk lid while you try the key operation.
 

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2004 CLK 240 Coupe
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No rear lights flashed but the driver reverse light was on and as I stood behind it it slowly faded died. Now none of the rear lights work.
I can start it drive it and the turn signals come on in the front but not the back. I assume the rear Sam module has fried??

The car always dies. I assume the Sam modules are drawing power?
About the rear lights. Your Rear SAM could be fried - but possibly not. The Rear SAM (N10/2) controls many other things (apart from the rear exterior lights) which might still be working, eg, heated rear window, fuel gauge, ATA (theft alarm), rear roller blind, and the SRS (seat restraining system). There are no fuses for these exterior lights.
Is E21 (3rd brake light) working?

I think that you need a multimeter and circuit diagrams to solve electrical faults. Here is a WIS document showing the external lights electrical overview.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Like most W209 problems reported here, this issue will have been discussed before and he thread should be in the forum archives somewhere. The Search facility here ought to give a solution as I can recall a poster with exactly this problem years ago and his eventual cure. I think that he had to drill out the lock! Try using 'key words' Trunk and lock. Years from 2006 to 2019 for model 209 CLK. However, these searches are very time-consuming.

Before getting out your drill, try several injections of WD40 into the trunk lock via the keyhole. Also, have somebody press downwards on the trunk lid while you try the key operation.
Yes I agree. I’m actually a mechanic at a shop. So I’m pretty confident with my skills. But to drill out a lock would terrify me. I will try WD40
Thank you Keyhole


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Discussion Starter #12
About the rear lights. Your Rear SAM could be fried - but possibly not. The Rear SAM (N10/2) controls many other things (apart from the rear exterior lights) which might still be working, eg, heated rear window, fuel gauge, ATA (theft alarm), rear roller blind, and the SRS (seat restraining system). There are no fuses for these exterior lights.
Is E21 (3rd brake light) working?

I think that you need a multimeter and circuit diagrams to solve electrical faults. Here is a WIS document showing the external lights electrical overview.
My trunk button on the driver door does not work (red light does not light)
My new key that got programmed also does not shine the red light for the trunk nor open it and it does show the red light for lock and unlock and that all works. My third brake light does NOT work either. And I just assumed because the trunk does not unlock by key or door and the rear lights are gone that it may be a rear Sam module. I saw a YouTube video of a guy with an ML350 the lock for tailgate did not work. Upon inspection he found corrosion in the board of the SAM. He cleaned it and VOILA! It worked. I want to try that if I CAN GET IN THE TRUNK. Haha.
Thanks again Keyhole for all the time and help.


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2004 CLK 240 Coupe
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Yes I agree. I’m actually a mechanic at a shop. So I’m pretty confident with my skills. But to drill out a lock would terrify me. I will try WD40
Thank you Keyhole
Here's a idea to free up the rear lock internals after you have tried lubrication.

Try some vibration against the trunk lock using a power drill that has that mode. Place something like a block of hard plastic between the lock and the vibrating drill. If you are lucky it might shake the trunk lock free.

(The bedroom variety would not have enough energy) :)
 
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