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Discussion Starter #1
Hello to all the forum members.

I have a 1990 560SEL with 147000 on it. A month ago, my drivers window stopped working. i took the pannel off pulled the whole "Brose" regulator out.
The arm with plastic piece on it completely broke off at the welding points.

I've ordered a new one put it in greased the living hell out of it , cleanned and regreased tracks. Checked everything and the window was going up and down slower than usual. assembled the panel got in the car, started it , and as soon asI tried to lower the windon the new regulator snapped in the same location. I went to work re-drilled holes in my old "Brose" regulator. installed the arm with steel rivets, and it lasted me 3 days. yesterday while going home I tried to close it and boom, snapped again off the steel rivets.

My question is......... What the F#$&@ am I doing wrong. its no that hard to take the pannel apart, but a big PITA because of the all small screws and parts. Please Help me before I'll take this tank to a parking lot and put it on fire. :mad::confused::bowdown:
 

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With the regulator off, does the glass move freely up and down by hand? There should be some resistance, but not much. It should barely (if even) hold itself in place when you let go. Might need to clean the channels the window slides in if it's binding.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
By channels you mean the sides, black material? Can I spray it with something , obviously not wd40, but any other lubricant? The window rail on the left, where the jaw is, has been cleaned. However, you still need to force the window up and down because the right side is dry. I guess my motor is ok because it was able to bend the regulator. The mounting holes for the regulator are in perfect shape, nothing is bent. The car never been in an accident. What else can be the problem?
 

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Yes, I was referring to the black channels on the sides that the glass slides in.

Might try cleaning them first with a mild dish soap and a toothbrush to dissolve any old road grease or tree sap that may have worked it's way in there.

As far as lubrication, I am no expert, but, I would think some sore of silicon or teflon "dry" lubricant would be best. Perhaps someone else can chime in. As you mentioned, I would not use any petroleum or oil based lubricants as that would just collect more dirt over time.

One more thing, have you tried operating the regulator without it attached to the windows? Do they correctly "scissor" up and down as if they were lifting/lowering the windows without much effort?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, the regulator worked fine. When my original broke. I put an aftermarket piece that worked great too, but it snapped off while I was testing it in the door. Then I took the original "brose" drilled three holes and put 3 large rivets. Two days later 2 rivets snapped and the ARM was bent at the front of the window where you put a bolt to the window frame. I stopped by autozone today and got a "liquid wrench" silicone grease in a spray bottle. Is it any good?
 

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I assume you first searched the forum archive to read up on 'window regulator' threads.
If not, the 'Welcome....' announcement on top has the how to.
Cheers
 

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Has any of the original mounting hardware for the door been changed? Look for something "too long". Has anyone re-drilled the mounting holes and got them in the wrong place or are they really wallowed out? That will mis-align the mechanism and cause it to have a rough time of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Has any of the original mounting hardware for the door been changed? Look for something "too long". Has anyone re-drilled the mounting holes and got them in the wrong place or are they really wallowed out? That will mis-align the mechanism and cause it to have a rough time of it.
No, all the holes are original. And the regulator as well. After I installed the regulator in to the original spot window stopped 1" before the buttom and would not go all the way down as expected. Do you know why?
 

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In this case, I would check motor too and make sure cable inside motor is moving freely without resistance. Bench test it before you put it in.
 

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As far as lube goes, Foolio is right, petroleum based products in the channels isnt ideal.
You are on the right track with silicone. I had a very stiff window because of the channels, did break the regulator. Nothing made a huge improvement til i found a spray intended for hydraulic seals. Worked a treat.

I wonder if your window channels are out of alignment too
 

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Discussion Starter #11
How do I check window channels
 

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I had window problems too about a week ago. Found that some how the black rubber channel had folded over at about mid way up. This caused a lot of resistance on my window and made my motor smoke too.
Check to make sure the window is in the channels all the way up and down.
 

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No, all the holes are original. And the regulator as well. After I installed the regulator in to the original spot window stopped 1" before the buttom and would not go all the way down as expected. Do you know why?
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Check the plastic guide on the scissors arm to see if it slides in the slot easily and fully. Also check to see if there are any galled teeth on the sector gear and make sure the sector gear is not bent.
 
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