190d 2.0 manual 1985

hi I bought a 1985 190d 2.0 ltr manual last week, does anyone know much about these cars? in ireland its rhd very hard to get its 5speed

 

hi I bought a 1985 190d 2.0 ltr manual last week, does anyone know much about these cars? in ireland its rhd very hard to get its 5speed

I think you are in the wrong forum...

 

Try disconnecting from rear diff first if you don't have room on tranny side. This would be a good write up to add to the stickies as I have heard of others having this issue.

 

Looks like you have two flex discs in the propeller shaft and you might need to remove both of them to gain the clearance you need. Perhaps somebody with an access to WIS can post the proper procedure?

 

thanks for the pic. I somewhat helped. But I don't have two flex disks. I only have one with the bearing in the middle. Im having a hard time removing the drive shaft cuz the aluminum shield and the exhaust is in the way. I don't know if I need to remove those or not

 

Ok. for search purposes 2007 gl450 transfer case removal noise clunking under acceleration .

I was able to complete the job. It was actually a pretty simple task. I was thinking there was more to it than there really was.

If you get the noise in the video, it is your transfer case.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GopnQbbafGA

it progressively got worse as the days went by without addressing it. So I find a transfer case on ebay for 550. I went to a shop and they were going to install a refurbished one for 3500 for just the transfer case. I didn't ask about labor as this was not an option for me.

-remove the 6 size 55 torx bolts for the front drive shaft.
-remove the 6 size 55 torx bolts for the rear drive shaft.
-remove 8 bolts using e12 torx socket for the transfer case to tranny. There are 2 bolts up high on top of the transfer case that are difficult to reach. Having an assortment of extensions and U joints helped. the driver's side is more difficult to get to. Use several long extensions and 2 u joints. go from the back of the transfer case and thread a few extensions with the u joint and socket on top of the tranny towards the front on the drivers side. once you see the extension attach the ratchet with another extension and u joint and remove the bolt.
-with the rear drive shaft unbolted, you will need to get it out of the way to be able to get the transfer case out with a swift blow of your palm, you can force the drive shaft up and out of the way.

The transfer case can now be removed. it doesn't weigh to much so you can just pull it out.

putting it back in is just the reverse. This should only take about 5 hours to complete depending on the needs of your kids as they yell "daddy, can you play with me?"

Now, I had gone the long route as I started disassembling the drive shaft at the rear diff. I also unbolted the center bearing as I thought this was hanging up my driveshaft prohibiting me from removing the transfer case. So when I was able to force the rear driveshaft up and out of the way, the drive shaft was disconnected at the center bearing. I do not believe you need to do this.

In any case, the transfer case seems to operate as it should.

 

Nice work! Thank you for sharing with us! Do you know what was wrong with the transfer case? How many miles did you have on it? Is there a maintenance schedule for it?

 

I don't know what was wrong with it but I will be opening it up. My GL has 150000 miles on it. I don't know about any maintenance schedule for it. I will take a pic of the internals when I open it up. As I carried it, I kinda shook it around and I can definitely hear something that was inside moving around.

 

I took apart the transfer case that I removed from my 2007 gl450. It was damaged at the chain tensioner. The tensioner mount had broken off. The case is no longer rebuildable. I do not know what caused it to break off and we do not do any hard driving with it nor do we tow with our GL450. I have attached some pics to show the damage.

 

i notice two things about this
1 fluid is horrible looking
2 i wonder if the case can be drilled and through bolted to avoid the casting breaking

 

Great write up thanks!

 

Wow! It looks like a metal fatigue issue. I wonder if this issue is common or not. I'm only at half mileage of yours.

 

Yes, mine had the exact same problem and failure as the one mentioned above, in fact that was my youtube video of my car. I would sure like to know what caused the failure. I bought a used one off ebay and it is fine. Not I got an airmatic malfunction I can't figure out.

 

TF Box Failure at low mileage

Old thread I know; but I have a Mercedes GL 420 CDI (2008) and with just 21702 genuine miles on the clock, Transfer box has failed catastrophically!
Mercedes think either the chain, or chain guide has failed but they can't be sure. Loud bang & no more drive, hoping to visit Mercedes garage and get some pictures in a day or so. As an Engineer myself, I will be very interested to try and pinpoint the exact cause. Replacement including labour is just over £4K.

 

Just replaced the TC in my wife's 2008 GL320. This thread was very helpful and I want to thank Angelglo for post #7 above. After I was under the truck I couldn't see any way of getting the TC out because you can't see the top 2 bolts. Was thinking about packing it in and finding someone to do the work for me but after carefully reading his post several times I realized you can reach from the back up around the top and get to the bolts. So like he said take your socket (E12) with a U-joint on it and a long extension. Once on the bolt you can find the other end of the extension and add more as needed to get the ratchet in a place where it will work. I had my feet sticking out by the drivers door and was hugging the TC with the ratchet in my right hand and left fingers on the socket. Top two bolts are actually easy to get out. The hardest for me was the 3rd bolt up on the drivers side as it's tight and you cant get a ratchet on it. I ended up using (not sure the name) my ratchet that is just a bar that attaches to the socket but it's thin. Took me about an hour to get that one bolt out but the others are easy. You will need an assortment of extensions to get to all the bolts.

I also had to loosen the center bearing holder on the rear axle and loosen the heat shield and then could get the axle out by pulling down then it just hung there resting on the heat shield. Down is easier than up because the TC is slightly tilted down from front to back because the rear diff is lower than the engine. Easy to understand when you see it. Bolts were tight on the center bearing holder I used an impact wrench so not sure how big a wrench is needed.

TC comes out easily and I used a jack to get the new one up into place. I held it on the jack pad and my wife worked the jack and when it's lined up correctly just easily slips on. If you're struggling with it then it's not lined up correctly.

There was a bracket on top right above the rear driveshaft output that is held in place with 2 bolts. The new TC wasn't tapped so I had to do it M8 with 1.0 threads if I remember but just check when you have the bolts in hand. Fortunately I checked before the install so could do it on the workbench. Not sure which models have this bracket.

I got a rebuilt unit for $1,440 delivered. Truck had been making the noise under hard acceleration from a stop and was getting worse over time. Don't even want to think about what this would cost to drop it at the dealer! Should be good for another couple hundred thousand miles or so and next time I can probably do the job in half the time!

 

I've done it with the same problems you told : problems with the top two bolts.
Mine is a 420 cdi with special exhaust : no way to reach them.

Finally I asked MB dealer, and the "secret" is to unmount the rear motor-tranmission-tc base (two easy-to-remove plates). Then, by rotation, as it goes downside, you can easily reach the 8 bolts, and to remove driveshafts with no other operations.

Then I did it. I changed only the chain (200 $) that has 260 000 km ! Since that all works well.