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Discussion Starter #1
So a couple of weeks back I enjoyed a spirited (Ok not really but 140km/h max) drive along the freeway.

Once I got off the freeway, and took a slight turn to the left, the engine just shut off, once i completed the turn to the left and was on level ground again I started the car and drove for about 150m, where the engine again shut off. I again started the engine and pulled away, I drove about 200m and there was a splutter and the engine shut off again. So as before, I started the engine and drove a bit more, this time getting to the next traffic light, and keeping the engine on a bit of a rev as I suspected that it was fueling due to the splutter I experienced about 30 seconds earlier.

From there I managed to drive the car home with no issue. I parked it off for a few hours, and then decided to go out for a drive again, the issue was non existent. And it was a round trip of around 30km from my house around the area and back home, whether I turned left or right, there was no issue. Later in the week I took it for a 60km trip to my wife's parents, no issue again.

I then parked the car off and went on holiday, so the car stood for approximately 2 weeks. I get back home, start the car and drive around my area, I get to a round-about on the road and and with a slight turn to the left, the engine shuts off again.

So My first thoughts is the car is having some fuel starvation, however on the day that this initially happened the fuel gauge was at a quarter tank and it drove fine after the motor cooled down later that afternoon, however it did the same thing when I came back from holiday and the car wasn't yet at normal operating temperature. I assumed that the left turn lets the fuel in the tank move to the opposite side of the tank fuel line feed and this could be causing it.

Has anyone else experienced this issue?

Any info on how to troubleshoot will be appreciated.

This is a W123 280e, M110
 

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Check connections on ignition system such as ICU on fender, the green lead from ICU to distributor, coil electrical contacts, junction near coil with 2 wires, engine ground strap to chassis, and also crawl under car and inspect the main feed hose to fuel pump from fuel tank and drips from fuel filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Check connections on ignition system such as ICU on fender, the green lead from ICU to distributor, coil electrical contacts, junction near coil with 2 wires, engine ground strap to chassis, and also crawl under car and inspect the main feed hose to fuel pump from fuel tank and drips from fuel filter.
Thank you sir, will have a look this weekend. I just hope I can find the issue and sort it out, I cannot allow that car to stand. :thumbsup:
 

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You know what, thinking more on this, this is a classic sign the fuel pump is worn out. Although it pumps just fine, while engaging a turn, the rollervane inside loses contact with terminals.

An example is a household fan that is going bad. If you lean it backwards, sometimes it will spin as it should but when you set back upright, it will start slowing down.

Also couldn’t hurt to pull the fuel pump relay and inspect for corrosion in socket and on blades.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You know what, thinking more on this, this is a classic sign the fuel pump is worn out. Although it pumps just fine, while engaging a turn, the rollervane inside loses contact with terminals.

An example is a household fan that is going bad. If you lean it backwards, sometimes it will spin as it should but when you set back upright, it will start slowing down.

Also couldn’t hurt to pull the fuel pump relay and inspect for corrosion in socket and on blades.
I Will die of anxiety from reading this:eek

But what you say does make sense. Ill go through everything and hopefully its a pipe or contact or something. I don't even want to think what a new pump costs here in South Africa.

On a side note it runs really well and under load it doesnt seem like a dying pump (Oh well thats what I hope)
 

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Sure, it will perform flawlessly and as it should if in a stable position. This is wear internally. Try asking planecrazy if he knows of a local source.
 

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Expect to pay ±R1500 for a brand new Bosch from the Bosch Diesel Electric shops. Or you could risk second-hand.

The Bosch product number is 0 580 254 910.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Expect to pay ±R1500 for a brand new Bosch from the Bosch Diesel Electric shops. Or you could risk second-hand.

The Bosch product number is 0 580 254 910.
:grin You sir are awesome! I expected something north of R3000. Ok so I'm at ease again. Where in ZA are you from?
 

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I had this same problem with my 280E. Typically cut out after a roundabout or corner. Changed the ignition trigger unit and the problem was solved. i actually bypassed the relay and turned the fuel pump on with a switch and used a multimeter to monitor the signal from the ignition unit. I saw it drop out and this confirmed the cause. The trigger unit tells the fuel pump relay that the engine is running and that it should then keep the fuel pump running. If you have an erratic tacho then this confirms that the trigger unit is on the way out. It is strange that it cuts out on a corner but it may be that when the engine is just idling then the signal drops and cuts the engine but if the signal drops when the engine is running then maybe it is not enough to cut the fuel pump.
 

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Where in ZA are you from?
I live and work in Potch, but I spend my weekends in the Krugersdorp area.

Be grateful you have a petrol car. My W202's mechanical feed pump (the one on the side of the injection pump) just died. It cost me half as much to purchase a 2nd hand electric fuel pump assembly, complete with filter, hoses, pump-side bracket, fuselage-side bracket, new rubber hangers and two MB relays than what it will cost me to replace the feed pump alone... Hell, for the price of that feed pump I can replace the electric pump twice with new units!

Still, when my diesels go well, they go well. I just wish they would keep going again (7 uninterrupted years with my W123, 5 relatively trouble-free years with my W202).
 

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Hi Ismoz,

Please excuse my ignorance but what part is the ignition trigger unit?

My 280CE will cut out after a long run, and the rev counter is also erratic.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I had this same problem with my 280E. Typically cut out after a roundabout or corner. Changed the ignition trigger unit and the problem was solved. i actually bypassed the relay and turned the fuel pump on with a switch and used a multimeter to monitor the signal from the ignition unit. I saw it drop out and this confirmed the cause. The trigger unit tells the fuel pump relay that the engine is running and that it should then keep the fuel pump running. If you have an erratic tacho then this confirms that the trigger unit is on the way out. It is strange that it cuts out on a corner but it may be that when the engine is just idling then the signal drops and cuts the engine but if the signal drops when the engine is running then maybe it is not enough to cut the fuel pump.
'
Ill have a look into this, Thanks for the tip. However the tacho is normal and no erratic behaviour. At this point Im just hoping its something small and cheap.

I've also decided that I'm going to build up parts for a full overhaul within the next few months reason being the valve stem seals seem a bit warn, so If the head comes out, I might as well just do everything once and et it out the way. We just finished getting our Red 280e W123 sorted and that costed a pretty penny so seeing as I plan to hold on to this one I want to make sure its 110% good to go
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I live and work in Potch, but I spend my weekends in the Krugersdorp area.

Be grateful you have a petrol car. My W202's mechanical feed pump (the one on the side of the injection pump) just died. It cost me half as much to purchase a 2nd hand electric fuel pump assembly, complete with filter, hoses, pump-side bracket, fuselage-side bracket, new rubber hangers and two MB relays than what it will cost me to replace the feed pump alone... Hell, for the price of that feed pump I can replace the electric pump twice with new units!

Still, when my diesels go well, they go well. I just wish they would keep going again (7 uninterrupted years with my W123, 5 relatively trouble-free years with my W202).
Oh lekker, potch has some good W123's stashed around with all the old oomies. I'm from Centurion

I miss my W123 300d that I owned. One of the biggest mistakes was selling it. Back in 2015 I bought it for R14k and someone ended up offering 22k and I let it go. Probably the neatest W123 I ever owned
 

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Oh lekker, potch has some good W123's stashed around with all the old oomies.
You'd be surprised how few W123s there are here. Ditto W124s and W126s. With no worthwhile MB mechanics, and the nearest dealership in Klerksdorp, most Mercs around here are new-ish A-Class and C-Class.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You'd be surprised how few W123s there are here. Ditto W124s and W126s. With no worthwhile MB mechanics, and the nearest dealership in Klerksdorp, most Mercs around here are new-ish A-Class and C-Class.
Thats sad, I remember driving between Parys and Orkney looking for W123's. I found so many but the owners refused to budge. Sadly those same 123's will be handed over to the grand son and if he doesn't know what he has it will sit and rot
 

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Hi Ismoz,

Please excuse my ignorance but what part is the ignition trigger unit?

My 280CE will cut out after a long run, and the rev counter is also erratic.

Thanks.
The silver box on the left hand inner guard. Has two plugs going into it. One of the plugs has a thick green wire. Should be able to get one cheap from a wreckers.
 
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