1997 E 420 - My driver's side window is stuck in the "down" position! I don't know whether it's the regulator or the switch. But is there someway to get that window back up in case it rains or until I can figure this thing out!!
HELP!! FRONT WINDOW STUCK IN DOWN POSITION!
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Until you diagnose and repair it, the only thing to do is pop the door panel and lift it by hand (though if it's an electrical issue that may also be difficult to do). Depending on the type of failure, you may also have to prop it up with a stick for the interim.
Good luck.
Until you diagnose and repair it, the only thing to do is pop the door panel and lift it by hand (though if it's an electrical issue that may also be difficult to do). Depending on the type of failure, you may also have to prop it up with a stick for the interim.
Good luck.
Ok, I got the window up. The switch would not raise the window - even when I bypassed the switch. So I ended up having to remove the window motor then raise the glass by hand then re-install the motor. Now at least it's stuck in the up position. I noticed that when I hand-raised the glass it took a lot of effort. So, I'm thinking that the regulator AND the window switch assembly should be replaced. I'll be looking for the switch assembly at the junk yards and the regulator I'll buy new.
1999 E55, 2001 E320, 1990 560 SEC, 2004 ML350, 2001 ML55, 1995 S500, 1998 SL500, 2010 E550 Sport zoo
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The China regulators are OK for the price, like $43, the OE is like $80.
The window does appear heavy, but the mote is string and the regulator gives a straight lift, no worries.
Drilling out the existing steel rivets can is the most exhaustive part of the regulator replacement job, see my previous post for the very-very-correct drill bit size which makes that job a whole lot easier by properly drilling off the head.
A magnetic pick up tool comes in handy getting the sharp metal piieces back up out of the door panel without any nips to the fingers and without the need to vacuum.
Replacement 1/8" aluminum pop rivets do a good decent job if they are set correctly. At Harbor Freight the alum pop rivet hand tool and rivets are like under $10 for the whole shebang.
If you have broken any nylon panel fasteners, they are replaceable from the dealer at like a outrageous $2 each, but as compared to the aftermarket lower price for a 10 pc bag + shipping, makes the 2-3-4 you really need from the dealer not a big sacrifice.
On the passenger window switch - this switch generally gets less used, and is not more likely to "fail" than the driver's switch. You might try spraying MAF cleaner, or spraying a Radio Shack DeoxIT cleaner (great product) I have had good result from cleaning that switch since I believe that the switch settles on itself and a little sugary or syrupy spillage there (quite common from the drink holder) is the most frequent cause of passenger window switch hesitation. You spray it in the side gap of the switch cap as best you can, no need to remove the switch panel, and work the switch back and forth. The DeoxIT is a great cleaner, and residue free MAF cleaner is a good thing to have anyway, so its a toss up between those two. I also clean the window wire terminal connectors before setting them back in.
Keep the faith !
The window does appear heavy, but the mote is string and the regulator gives a straight lift, no worries.
Drilling out the existing steel rivets can is the most exhaustive part of the regulator replacement job, see my previous post for the very-very-correct drill bit size which makes that job a whole lot easier by properly drilling off the head.
A magnetic pick up tool comes in handy getting the sharp metal piieces back up out of the door panel without any nips to the fingers and without the need to vacuum.
Replacement 1/8" aluminum pop rivets do a good decent job if they are set correctly. At Harbor Freight the alum pop rivet hand tool and rivets are like under $10 for the whole shebang.
If you have broken any nylon panel fasteners, they are replaceable from the dealer at like a outrageous $2 each, but as compared to the aftermarket lower price for a 10 pc bag + shipping, makes the 2-3-4 you really need from the dealer not a big sacrifice.
On the passenger window switch - this switch generally gets less used, and is not more likely to "fail" than the driver's switch. You might try spraying MAF cleaner, or spraying a Radio Shack DeoxIT cleaner (great product) I have had good result from cleaning that switch since I believe that the switch settles on itself and a little sugary or syrupy spillage there (quite common from the drink holder) is the most frequent cause of passenger window switch hesitation. You spray it in the side gap of the switch cap as best you can, no need to remove the switch panel, and work the switch back and forth. The DeoxIT is a great cleaner, and residue free MAF cleaner is a good thing to have anyway, so its a toss up between those two. I also clean the window wire terminal connectors before setting them back in.
Keep the faith !
Sounds like it might be the switch; you can try cleaning as Fab suggests. But there's a thread somewhere about a guy that traced an issue including swapping out motors, etc. and finally found it. So get the VOM out and check it before you get ready to buy parts. At least you don't have to remove the regulator. But lifting the window with everything connected is a lot of mechanisms to move around, and the torque multiplication of the motor does a lot.
I had the same problem. I switched widow switches, with no change. I pulled the door panel off to check the motor. found that the motor was hot to touch. removed the electrical connection, which then removed torque that was being applied to the motor from being under power at all times. I reversed the wires and the window went up.. I thought to my self, must have a relay that has wielded contacts, because power to motor anytime the key is on. well that is what it was, bad convience relay, which I found under the rear seat. I opened it and found 8 relays, each window has two, one up one down. the down contacts were wielded. new relay(used unit)fixed the problem..
What about swapping
On a sugary note.. At church today a friend and I were discussing the switch and lock placement in his Volvo 850 wagon - same issue we have - except our spillage takes out more birds with that one stone...
the switches - BTW thanks for posting - I am asking in advance - meaning swap the less used switches for the busted one... We generally have drinks in the car only on roadtrips for the tranny module reason - luck might have it the switch gets some coffee then..
On a sugary note.. At church today a friend and I were discussing the switch and lock placement in his Volvo 850 wagon - same issue we have - except our spillage takes out more birds with that one stone...
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