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Again, hello and im new to posting in the forum. I recently purchased a nice 94 s500 and im ready to customize her now! I will start with the suspension.
O.K. i've done some homework and it looks like i should go h&r springs with bilstein sport shocks, correct?
Now here is where i need help: Do I purchase the self leveling springs or the NON self leveling springs. Yes, i have an s500 so i know i currently have rear self leveling but i truely believe it is shot! The cars makes the worst thuds in the rear, even over mild bumps and cracks. Mechanic said it needs new shocks anyway so which direction do i go?
Personally, i dont care for the sls, yet alone repairing it. In the end, all i want to do is a direct spring and shocks swap, yielding in a sleek and smooth ride. Pls let me know whats all is involved and how to go about doing so. Id really appreciate it! thx!

shaun
 

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You don't care about repairing the suspension of your car? :confused: Weren't you aware of this expensive set up of your car before you bought it?

No matter, if you want to completely avoid the SLS altogether find a S320 or S420 that did not come with the SLS. Find a parts car or a beater, then have a competent mechanic do the work for you. Now that you're a member here you can do a search and find others who have done the same. Good luck
 

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Hi, thx for teh reply. Of coarse i care. When i bought the car, yes, i did know i was in need of shocks but i didnt worry about that too much b/c i knew i was going to redo the entire suspension by lowering her. I didnt learn about the self leveling until afterwards so thats why im here asking for help. I just need help with how to lowering to rear. Ive seen post where people were in my same situation and wanted to lower their car. Some suggestions i saw was to do away with the self leveling all together. Thats why i mentioned that. Or even if i do decide to keep, just want to know what springs and adjustments must be made for either route i decide to take. So, i apologize if i offended anyone, didnt mean it in that manner. Looking forward to any and all help, thx
 

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No offense taken by anyone I'm sure. I'm thinking your accumulators are shot... Simply replacing the shocks and springs won't bring back a smooth or sleek ride.

Read this thread for your spring upgrade:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/1405910-diy-h-r-springs-rear-bushings.html

Read this thread for your clunking problem:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/1475973-loud-thud-noise-rear-suspension.html

Check out parts geek for parts, you'll save a ton of money compared to the dealer or any other shop. If you're a good DIY kind of person then you'll save tons on labor costs too. First step is to find the exact problem so posting here on benzworld was a step in the right direction. :thumbsup:
 

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Are your shock leaking fluid? If they arent its most likely accumulators. These accumulators are like the struts on a normal car. Also h&r is good but not company makes rear shocks for the sls

Now if you verify your rear shocks are good and the accumulators are shot. It would cost around $400-600 depending on shop parts quailty.
 

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I would urge you to keep the stock configuration as is, repair as needed. It's how the car was engineered. Fiddling with the formula is a quick way to lose interest in the car.
 

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Ignore Stryker's comments. It's your car. Enjoy making any changes you want. With regard to removing the self-levelling suspension, there was a thread by "snik" with a lot of information that he documented as he went through the process. I was just searching for it and couldn't find it. I've never had a problem finding it in the past. I don't know what's up with that...

Anyway, the major concerns are which springs and what to do with the hydraulic system. You've already got springs selected. H&R is a good brand. You'll want non-SLS springs. For the hydraulic system, you have a choice. The system uses a tandem pump, which is the suspension pump and the power steering pump built into one housing. It's a continuously circulating system. The feed and return lines run right next to one another. You can keep the tandem pump, cut the lines, loop the feed directly to the return (by whatever means you want), and then remove the rest of the system in the rear (the levelling valve, accumulators, and SLS struts). You will still have the suspension pump, and you will need to make sure there is fluid to keep the pump lubricated, although the pump will be doing nothing. Or, you can remove the tandem pump and replace it with the power steering pump for non-SLS cars. And, then you can remove all the hydraulic lines for the suspension along with all the levelling stuff in the rear.

Brett
 

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mafiadon also swapped out his SLS with good results. You can learn alot from turning your own wrenches if your halfway decent with mechanics.

If not just make sure you find an honest mechanic to do the work.

lol stryker

I have SLS and its working fine, me personally, I like the SLS and it adds to the prestige related to this fine car.

Goodluck with your car and enjoy it!
 

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I was going to recommend adjusting the rear height all the way down and cutting the front springs. Ride would be compromised but will be regardless if you lower it. The cost would be lower but it sounds like you need accumulators and possibly upper mounts for the rear shocks, which would be pricey. Good luck on your project.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hello all, sorry i was away for awhile. Running a grocery store this time of year is rough and requires alot more hours than usual.
O.k. thanks guys for all the replies. Brett pretty much hit on what i needed to know. Seems like im on the right track with parts.
Regarding disabling the sls, which is the better option? Seem like option 1 is the most comment and cost effective but idk. I have yet to price used non sls ps pump.
Anywho, whichever i decided to do, i will will keep you guys posted, with pics provided, thx!
 

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I was recently at a car show where a 600 SWB from the 1970's was on display. At the time that car was produced, it had an air suspension and, since it was novel for the time, was/is subject to expensive repairs. I wonder how many owners of this 'top of the line' car went cheap and did away with the air suspension.

The fellow that owned the 600 SWB told me he spent over $40k restoring the suspension to it's original condition.

As more of our owners seek to cheap out and replace expensive components with less expensive ways of putting their cars together, it leaves fewer cars in their original condition.

This is a forum of owners seeking ways to keep their cars going. Not how to convert w140's to lesser incarnations.

I would advise you to keep the car in as original condition as possible.
 

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This is a forum of owners seeking ways to keep their cars going. Not how to convert w140's to lesser incarnations.

I would advise you to keep the car in as original condition as possible.
Again????
This is a forum for people who like to talk about, and learn about their cars, If you want it low, go low. If you want to put it on 35's go for it.
and most off all If you want to work on it YOURSELF, go for it

There are many cars in the world that "shouldn't" be messed with, but they are. I have seen a Street Rod Boat Tail Auburn, Nice job, but. not what I would do. I have seen a Rolls Royce with a blower sticking through the hood, and on airbags.
Stryker if you want a forum for stock W140s ask the moderators to create it for you, Then you can whine when people talk about mods to their cars, or work on it themselves.

I can see it now, Strykers just sit and look at it forum!

to the OP have fun!
Dan
Carpe Diem
 

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Daniel, and others:

This is a forum of opinions. Who says you have a lock on all the good ones?

I'm usually in the minority opinion when I suggest to others, especially younger members, that they try and keep their cars original. Why? Because when they go to sell their cars, originality matters. Definite extra points for keeping everything the way it was designed. Many people might not know that. And they learn the hard way.

I had a buddy in high school who had an original 1968 Camaro SS. He fiddled around with that car to the point that you couldn't recognize it any more: jacked up, Crager mags, air tunnel hood scoop, the works. That car would be a $100k car today if left in original condition. Instead, he got way less when he sold it. Original matters!

Have your opinions, but you might want to weigh experience with your enthusiasm.

"Respit se Finim", as Caesar admonished his younger generals.
When going on a campaign, "Think of the end". That's what matters.
 

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Your 94 S500 is a particularly intersting car, as that year is arguably the last of the best in terms of details.

As much as Stryker's being teased and given a hard time - his stable of cars is awfully impressive - and so he is imparting words of wisdom, in that if you can keep it original, it is definitely worth considering it. Of course you can and should do what you want, but the points he make are accurate - both for resale and ride enjoyment....

Now, there may be a comproimise - contact by PM "The Andrew", he redid his rear suspension on his 93 S500 quite inexpensively and it worked well for him, I think he went with bilsteins and did away with SLS but I could be wrong, but he did it in such a way as to maintain much of the orginality....

All the listers make good points; and in particular don't over look rear sway bar bushings and accumulators too.

Good luck!
 

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I don't want to hijack the thread, but just for curiosity, it is possible to emulate the self leveling effect (even if just partially) with regular shocks? Maybe putting stiffer springs on rear axle? Sorry if its a stupid question...
 

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I don't want to hijack the thread, but just for curiosity, it is possible to emulate the self leveling effect (even if just partially) with regular shocks? Maybe putting stiffer springs on rear axle? Sorry if its a stupid question...
No. A regular spring and shock suspension will ride lower and lower with more and more weight in the rear. I don't think you'd want to make it ride like a truck 95% of the time just to keep it from riding much lower for the 5% of the time the car is more heavily laden.

Brett
 

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But, honestly, comparing a 1968 Camaro SS to a vehicle that represents 1 out of a half a million examples worldwide is silly. Reaching for a value argument is just inane. These cars will drop to the basement in value and stay there. Want proof? Check the asking prices of run-of-the-mill decent 1967-1973 W108/109 unrestored original sedans these days. This is the "S-class" that is now in classic status territory. They're available for around $10,000. There's not much value to preserve. Likewise, there will not be much value to preserve in the run-of-the-mill W140 either.

I would recommend you park your own W140's in carcoons rather than drive them. Every mile you put on costs you dollars upon resale, if that's all we're concerned with here.

Hey, I got a quote, too.

Life is a journey, not a destination.
― Ralph Waldo Emerson

Brett
 

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I would recommend you park your own W140's in carcoons rather than drive them. Every mile you put on costs you dollars upon resale, if that's all we're concerned with here.

Hey, I got a quote, too.

Life is a journey, not a destination.
― Ralph Waldo Emerson

Brett
Hey Brett do you want to drive my C140 up from AZ???

Man, I'm pumped duo valve went in yesterday - not much more left to go!!

Failing you driving it up, maybe I'll fly down - is there somewhere nice and cheap to go In Baja for Xmas? How about a W140 roadtrip in Mexico :cool:
 

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Hey Brett do you want to drive my C140 up from AZ???

Man, I'm pumped duo valve went in yesterday - not much more left to go!!

Failing you driving it up, maybe I'll fly down - is there somewhere nice and cheap to go In Baja for Xmas? How about a W140 roadtrip in Mexico :cool:
No, I'd not want to be responsible for devaluing your car by putting miles on it. LOL Seriously though, if it's a serious question, I wouldn't be available, so it's still a no.

Road trip through Mexico? You've got more balls than me. I think everything's cheap in Baja. Well, until you get to Cabo, then I imagine tourist prices apply.

What was this thread about again?

Brett
 
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