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I measured and read the color code off the resistor (cut shrink off). I recall it being speced a 1.2 ohm 2 watt resistor. I went to radio shack and paralleled 7 or 8 (can't remember) 1/4 watt carbon 10 ohm resistors. I would have got a correct one if they had it. So this was my best solution and very cheap.
Excellent!!!!
 

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1990 Mercedes-Benz 420 SEL(RIP),1997 Mercedes-Benz E420
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Discussion Starter #22
I had one side not work on my 97 e420. I rewired both sides and got everything ok with 16 gauge trailer wire light. All black wire but who cares. Took 1 wire at a time off and replaced/soldered (ok crimpers, I understand).

Anyway, mine are not hid but look just like your pictures. Fortunaly the one side was good. I measured and read the color code off the resistor (cut shrink off). I recall it being speced a 1.2 ohm 2 watt resistor. I went to radio shack and paralleled 7 or 8 (can't remember) 1/4 watt carbon 10 ohm resistors. I would have got a correct one if they had it. So this was my best solution and very cheap.

Glad to say my lighting issue has been resolved.. I also put in some ebay error free and haven't had any issue with them.

Hope this helps.
Thank you for this information. It will be helpful to all those who have yet have their wiring systems fail due to shoddy material.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Can someone please expand on this information more? I want to be sure I fully comprehend whats going on before blowing any other components.

This will be the first time working on an electrical component such as this...
Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I think the HID systems are different only with the headlamps/relays etc... but its good now that some confirmation has been made on these city lamps being all similar.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
just wrapped all wires leading to and from the parking/city bulb and replaced the fuse.

It did not blow. Rear passenger tail light is working, and night illumination feature is working.
 

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For lasting a permenant repair, at $20/side, I would splice in a non-HID wiring harness.

For a temporary repair, taping compromised insulation lengthwise will help you for an indeterminate period of time.

However, if you are going the route of rewire, the main plug shown in an earlier photo will give you the most difficulty. Prying out the pins without damaging the socket and trying to find an exact replacement spade will be difficult. Instead, consider splicing in a new wire without removing the spades from the connection. Then solder in the splice (won't have room for a crimp that may come apart anyway) and then slide down heat shrink tubing down to cover exposted wire all the way to the plug. (The shrink tubing can be bought at a parts store - looks like what was covering the blown in-line fuse) Its best to practice on your soldering technique and shrink wrap a few times before trying a final repair using the plug if you go this route.

Also, don't undersize the wire gage for any replacements (particularly for the HID) - to small will overheat the wire due to increased resistance.
 

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Forgot to mention: Using rubber gloves (or event cotton liner), open new a H7 bulb package and replace the bulb in the socket so as not to get skin oil on bulb. If you are very careful, you can get by with only touching the base of the bulb. Otherwise, they will burn out early.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Hello Again,

I refuse to spend $1000 for a new xenon headlamp(1PC)... so I'm doing a whole lot more research as I cannot find an answer anywhere but here. I sourced a product on ebay, that may or may not be a correct fit for xenons. Just waiting for the sellers response.

The three sockets/plugs affected control the H7, H6W (Parking), and junction that connects to the xenon ballast. With wires crumbling I plan on using shrink wrap unless there is another, better way to seal these in with high temperatures.

Going to also get my girlfriends dads opinion as he is an experienced electrician. If someone does come across or knows about this harness specifically for xenons only please post. It also affects my headlamp motor that controls the self leveling function.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
After speaking with my girlfriends father we believe it is a resistor. We hooked up the multimeter and found no resistance proving the component is not working.

I wanted to confirm before placing the order though on the specs of the resistor...1.2 watt 2 ohm's are easy to find on ebay but choices like carbon, metal, or even cement resistors are available...anyone know what this resistor was made of originally?

Also, attached is a picture of what he said was likely an inductor. It does not connect to the lights but controls the motor for self leveling... he said it looked okay.

I know much more thanks to you all. Much appreciated. I'll order the resistors and some shrink wrap to get me ready to repair. Next worrisome step would be removing the pins from the housing of the plug...will research more.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Ah what the hell...just ordered 10 metal film resistors rated at 1.2ohm, 2 watts at $1.97 for 10.

Here's to hoping this will work!
 

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After speaking with my girlfriends father we believe it is a resistor. We hooked up the multimeter and found no resistance proving the component is not working.

I wanted to confirm before placing the order though on the specs of the resistor...1.2 watt 2 ohm's are easy to find on ebay but choices like carbon, metal, or even cement resistors are available...anyone know what this resistor was made of originally?

Also, attached is a picture of what he said was likely an inductor. It does not connect to the lights but controls the motor for self leveling... he said it looked okay.

I know much more thanks to you all. Much appreciated. I'll order the resistors and some shrink wrap to get me ready to repair. Next worrisome step would be removing the pins from the housing of the plug...will research more.
That picture is of a 5 microhenry coil rated for 10 amps. It wouldn't have resistance and if you didn't read any then it is good.

As for the resistor, metal film is fine. The original is carbon (umm, maybe wirewound...) but doesn't really matter in this application (wouldn't use ceramic though as more fragile). And I rigged mine by parrelling available resistors to get correct resistance/wattage. Also when resistors fail they do not short (0 resistance), they open or increase in resistance. Measuring 1 ohm requires proper multimeter scaling.

Again in hindsight, I'd order a complete replacement wiring harness from amazon just so I'd get new connectors. But what yopur doing will be very helpful to you in the future by what you'll learn ;)

Merry Christmas,
Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #33
You are correct. He mentioned they were a unit of measurement called a "micro-henry", thats the first I've ever heard of such.

Do you enjoy fussing with electronics? The best I've ever done was replace the optical drive on the Xbox 360. Solved MY "red ring of death". It's poor design to have a disk read while defying gravity. I've also soldered in an aux cord on the replacement Bose head unit...actually now that I think of it, I can't confirm if it came from a Bose system. Probably not. I still have the factory head unit with one nasty volume knob. *Buyer Beware :eclipsee_steering::rocketwhore:

I'm a novice at this, I will explain it the best I can.

I pushed the pins from the main power plug. Where the headlamp meets the car's harness, then to computer, I assume. The H7 (high beam) socket is giving me trouble so I let it be.The socket that holds the H6W (parking) is cracked so I gotta find a source. I may have a spare in the center console. Definitely need new fog lamps and wiring there as well, a branch or something got caught beneath it and pulled off the wiring behind the fog lamp.

I removed the cracking insulation as best as I could and taped electrical tape at the tips on both ends with a letter, color, and pin #.

What gauge of wire is this? And is it any different than those harnesses designed for halogen? with exception to the plug that connect to the leveling motor.
 

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if it helps any, the H6 bulb is also used in the bumper side markers so if you're
able to see this at the wrecking yard you may want to try sizing the bulb
holder to see if you can substitute this female end....as long as it fits into the
headlight shell.

another thing also is that some asian designs of the 210 headlight use the W5W
wedge bulb instead so if you come across that bulb holder it may be interchange-
able as well
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Heres a little bit of an update.

I'm still waiting for the resistors but stopped by Napa and wen't on a spree. I also grabbed some red heat shrink for "testing." Nylon ties and electrical cleaner (spray), and absorbing towels for the mess. The shrink fits nicely over the bottom of the metal sockets but is too large for the wire cable itself. I will look around for smaller wrap.

In the meantime,
I cleaned the wires using a technique found on the internet using common household items that aren't hazardous. By combing baking soda with water, and salt with vinegar you have an acid you can use. Because its a weaker acid it will take longer than harsher chemicals. Notice in the attachment the difference with the shrink wrapped wire to the one in the background. It could probably use another bath but, its progress.

I'm also preforming an experiment to rejuvenate the headlamp seal, or that entire rubber outlining. Bought a gallon of armor all stuck the seal into a plastic bag and just starting spraying. I got a good amount in there so it can really soak in. It's only been in for half a day but ill reveal that tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
Last night I experimented some more.

I'm preforming an experiment. The subject is the wire that leads from the power source to the motor (1 of 4) In it, there is a inductor, although i'm still speculative on what exactly it is. As said, my girlfriends father, an electrical engineer, thinks its an inductor. But isn't familiar with the German way of doing things.

Using the tools I had available. I picked up more heat shrink from CarQuest, the largest I could find to fit over the inductors or metal coils in the pictures.

Hate to say it but I don't think I am impressed or satisfied with the work I've done thus far. I'm looking for that uniform shrink. Instead of the overlapping as the one seen. But this is a test and until I can find longer wrap on island I'll take my time. China post takes a while.

I didn't have a heat gun to use so instead used a regular flame/non-torch lighter. I'm still working on the removal on that pin from the housing.
 

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You are learning a lot and that is good. And yea, 8 years in Navy aviation pme lab (repaired and calibrated electronic and mechanical test equipment), 10 years as a surgical biomedical engineer, so a lot of fussing ;)

As I said you've learned a lot but I think it's time you do yourself a favor and order the wire harness kit.

1. Heat shrink will never be as flexible as insulation and it's fairly thin walled.

2. Connectors are bad because of age and electrical cleaner and even baking soda and vinegar won't help them (arguably hurt them worse).

Luv what your doing and although frustrating at time I think I can tell your enjoying the experience, keep that diy attitude ;)

Happy New Year,
Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
Hi Ken,

The shrink wrap I used isn't small enough to fill up the small gap in between wire and wrap wall. There is no immediate tension on the wire itself when bent, it will first bend the wrap and if bent enough at an angle, will effect the wire.

If you do find a harness that is designed for the xenons please let me know....I can only locate those for halogen lamps. If you mean the kit for repair, yes I agree, I'll try and locate one on island before I place an order. The only difference I can see is the exception of wire leading to the ballast and wire that leads to the lamp leveling motor.

Many thanks. :bowdown:
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Btw, the only other material I can locate other than shrink wrap is a material called "Polyolefin" Which may or may not contain teflon.

Never heard of it before.
 

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Brandon - gotta say I'm impressed with your perseverance and techniques.

A mild acid bath to clean the strands will promote conduction between the strands, but be sure to give it a good water bath before installing heat shrink. You don't want a continued reaction to occur at a localized spot on the wire strands after they are covered up.

The inductor pointed out is probably intended to limit current inrush and keep the bulbs lasting longer.

Its OK to overlap shrink wrap tubing as long as it is sealed on the ends that overlap. Raychem is the industrial equivalent of heat shrink wrap and is designed to have overlapping pieces.

If you cannot easily get the spade out of a connector - consider leaving it in place since they will be difficult to replace if broken. Instead, cut the wire several inches from a connector, and slide two pieces of heat shrink down each leg. Leave at least 1 inch of exposed wire on each side. Shrink the tubing. Then slide down a 3 inch piece of heat shrink down one leg of the wire, long enough to cover the splice. Solder the broken connection back together in a linear connection with a diameter less than the shrink tube, and then slide the heat shrink over the splice after it has cooled.

Having a bit of luck with a slight oversize of the wire wrap means that the wire will have a little more flexibility.

On the down side, a flame heat will give the most uneven results for shrink tubing (as you must have already found out). If a heat gun is out of reach, try a high watt hairdryer to see if that will work. :thumbsup:
 
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