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1975 Unimog 406
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well, I just got back from a great outing with my MV club at Fort Custer, Battle Creek, MI, except that my 406 went nose first (about a 30% entry angle) in to what I thought was 3 feet of water/mud when in fact it was over 5 feet. The Mog nosed in and came to an abrubt halt, still running but loosing power fast. I hit reverse (I was in 3rd and I had to bring it into 1st-2nd position to throw the reverse lever) but by then the I lost all horse power and then the engine chugged to a stop albeit longer than I wished. Water filled the cabin but did not submerge the dash and tad poles started wiggling around my legs. I got soaked to say the least. After 30 minutes, we finally got a duece and a half positioned and winched it out backwards. The mog was towed back to my trailer and back home for a lot of service work. Both axels, all portals and transimission had no sign of water (drained anyway), but the engine...holy crap. The engine injested serval gallons of water through the filler tube (not cap but overpressure pipe), the radiator fines filled with mud which cause the engine fan to suck it towards itself and thus destroy both. I drained all of the water errr oil out of the engine and oil filter housing, rad was already drained...and now I will drain the diesel tank to be safe since the cap was submerge (it is a keyed cap...note to self replace that).

The mog has been pressure washed and greased but I have questions for you all: Since the engine took on so much water, there still seems to be contaminated oil still the block and filter housing area. Any ideas on making sure most is removed prior to refilling/filtering, running and then draining again? Since there are no holes in the block, is safe to say that water did not or is not in the piston sleeves? Can I have rad recored locally or do I have to spend more on an OEM MB one?! Any help would be appreciated!

I will have a pictures soon since I could not take any while stuck in the cab.


Ted
 

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mogless, except for my friends MB4-94. And a bunch of other diesel junk.
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If you really got a ton of crap into the case, I'd fill with kero or similar, turn a few times manually, drain and repeat. Let the drained stuff sit for a day and youll see how much h2o is on top and how much dirt is on the bottom. When it looks ok, fill with some cheap oil, run for 15 minutes or so, and drain. If youre afriad that you got junk above the rings, pull the valve cover and injectors and fill the cylinders with some light oil, turn the injector pump all of the way OFF, and bump the engine over 1 cylinder at a time to blow all the goo out. Be raedy for a bath. I've swamped a few motors, and this works for me. Whatever you can do to get it clean! Good luck! Seth
 

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'78 Mog 416.141 DoKa
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ted gates said:
The engine injested serval gallons of water through the filler tube
Wow - I'm surprised that happened - I'll have to check to see how tight my cap is. I've seen several videos of 406's running in water up to the windshield with no problems.
 

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1975 Unimog 406
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Mog Picts

Here is a picture. As you can see, entire front was under water just below the dash. Ted

Well, I used to be able to posts pictures...oh well...


I will try again...

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/la283/album?.dir=/654ascd&.src=ph

If it works, then when you look at the mog being loaded on the trailer, imagine a line from near the top of the engine hood down to the rear tire center, that is what was submerged. Small but very deeeeeep pond. This area is were the US Military train reclamation. I think they stuck an Abrams M1A1 there!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
FYI, it was not the cap but the breather tube attached to the filler tube...Take a look on yours and let me know what you find.
 

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I'm not sure I know where you mean. The dipstick tube ? Or, the tube and cap assembly under the fuel filters ?? Or is there another evil tube somewhere I haven't seen yet ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
When I get back from my current trip, I will take a picture of the area. It is connected to the front filler tube by the fuel filters and it is a horizontal tube which angles back towards the dip stick.
 

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'76 406.145 Doka tug
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This tube.

Vents the timing gear case and crankcase off the filler tube.

If it's on an angle when submerged, it would just flow water straight to the oil pan.

I think I will snorkelize mine.
 

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Ohhhh - THAT tube. Looks like it needs a plastic hose attached and run up somewhere high - maybe inside the A-pillar ? (That's where my fuel tank breather goes)

Brings up a question I always wondered about. WHICH location is best for adding crankcase oil ? I always dump it in through the traditional valve cover filler cap. WHY is that filler by the fuel filters even there ??
 

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You could argue that the front filler is so that you don't have to pop the doghouse to add oil, but without removing the doghouse, you can't have at the dipstick. hmmm I wonder if that breather needs to be that big, you could easily reduce it with a rubber furnco fitting and run that up high. If you think about it, the positive crankcase pressure should help to keep water from running in, but with an opening like that one, the pressure would be lower. Just a thought.....Seth
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
On my 75-406, the front hydraulic oil reservior has an over bleed tube going to my filler cap. Other than that I don't have any use for it. I will definately connect an extension tube to my breather.

Another problem I found was that my oil bath air cleaner has a bad seal on it and since it was under water (but my snorkle was not) the air intake took on water...very bad bad thing. I found water above the piston rings but I do not know if it got there after the engine went dead or if it assisted in killing the engine. Time will tell after a tear down. So please check your intake integrity for water submersion. Ted
 

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ted gates said:
Time will tell after a tear down. So please check your intake integrity for water submersion. Ted
Ted, how much of a tear down do you anticipate? I hope you didn't suffer any bad damage, Seth
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Seth,

I hope I do not have big problems either, but I will be dropping the oil pan for inspection and more extensive cleaning inside the crankcase. I have rinse once with kerosene and will do it again (it is some really crappy water/mud/debris that I took on). I took the side plate off and everything inside looks "normal"...My main concern is the connecting rods on the front 3 cylinders. So until I have a look underneath, I will not know how far I will have to tear it down.

Can anyone tell me how to remove the injectors? I have them ready to come out and they wiggle but I cannot extract them...any ideas?

Ted
 

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Stuck!

Kelly,
Was that picture taken out at Sean's in January?

Blane
 
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